Is cleansing oil comedogenic?

Gaining increasing popularity due to the widespread use of the double cleansing technique, the cleansing oil is a treatment appreciated for its effectiveness and gentleness, providing a thorough cleanse without harming the skin. It is used as the first step in the evening, on dry skin. Thanks to its lipophilic texture, it effectively dissolves makeup, even water-resistant or long-lasting ones. When in contact with water, the cleansing oil transforms into a light emulsion, supposed to leave no oily residue on the skin. However, oily skin types are often wary of this treatment, fearing that the cleansing oil may have an occlusive effect and promote pore blockage and the appearance of comedones.

This risk, however, depends on the composition of the cleansing oil and its proper use. Originally, cleansing oils often contained mineral oils, but these have gradually been replaced by vegetable oils and fatty acid esters, which are lighter. These are often produced from plant-based fatty acids and have good dispersion properties. Depending on the vegetable oils and fatty acid esters used to formulate the cleansing oil, it can have a more or less oily texture and thus a higher or lower comedogenic potential. Light vegetable oils, such as jojoba or grape seed, allow for cleansing oils that are suitable for both dry and oily skin types.

The 7-ingredient cleansing oil from Typology has been formulated with sunflower oil, a vegetable oil with a zero comedogenicity index.

Another crucial factor to consider is the ability of the cleansing oil to emulsify properly. This process is facilitated by the presence of one or more surfactant(s) in its formula, which allows the oil to transform into a milky emulsion upon contact with water. Effective emulsification ensures efficient rinsing, thus preventing any lingering oily residue on the skin. If the emulsion is insufficient or poorly executed, traces of oil may remain, which, in combination to oily skin types, could promote the accumulation of impurities and the emergence of blemishes. That's why it's often recommended to perform a double cleanse, supplementing the use of the cleansing oil with a water-based cleanser suitable for your skin type, to remove the last residues and achieve thoroughly clean skin.

To date, there are no studies specifically conducted on the comedogenicity of cleansing oils. However, interesting research carried out in 2019 by CHANG and his team seems to indicate a compatibility between cleansing oil and oily skin. In this study, ten made-up women used cleansing oil on their left cheek and micellar water on their right cheek. Two hours later, the amount of sebum on their face was measured using a sebumeter. A value of 205.29 µg/cm2 was obtained for the cheek where the cleansing oil was used, compared to 172 µg/cm2 for the one where the micellar water was applied. It should be noted that the sebum rate was 250 µg/cm2 before the skin was cleaned. Like micellar water, often recommended for combination to oily skin, cleansing oil did not encourage sebum synthesis but had a better protective effect on the hydrolipidic film.

Please note : The occurrence of comedones following the use of a cosmetic product varies greatly from one individual to another, making it difficult to predict its comedogenic nature.