Cleansing oil for oily skin?

Oily skin is characterised by an excessive production of sebum, resulting in shiny skin, enlarged pores and sometimes blemishes. Many believe that applying an oil, whether it's a cleansing oil or not, could make the skin even oilier. Cleansing oils work by lipid affinity, based on the principle that "like attracts like". Thanks to the fatty substances they contain, they attract lipophilic impurities, such as makeup, pollution particles, and also sebum, and dissolve them. Cleansing oils provide very effective makeup removal for the skin, an important point for all skin types, especially for oily skin, which is sensitive to pore blockage.

Furthermore, cleansing oils have the advantage of gently removing makeup and pre-cleaning the skin. This point may seem trivial for oily skin, but it is actually important: by preserving the hydrolipidic film and the skin barrier, cleansing oils prevent a rebound effect, where the skin, deprived of its natural oils, compensates by producing even more sebum. Moreover, when they are well formulated and contain effective emulsifiers, cleansing oils do not leave a greasy film on the skin, a crucial factor for oily skin types who fear the sensation of an occlusive film.

Contrary to popular belief, cleansing oil can be a true ally for oily skin types.

There have been few clinical studies on cleansing oils, but one provides intriguing insight into their compatibility with oily skin. This research was conducted in 2019 with ten women who wore makeup. To remove their makeup, they used a cleansing oil on their left cheek and micellar water on their right cheek. Two hours later, the amount of sebum on their face was measured using a sebumeter. A value of 205.29 µg/cm2 was obtained for the cheek where the cleansing oil was used, compared to 172 µg/cm2 for the one where the micellar water was applied. It's worth noting that the sebum level was 250 µg/cm2 before the skin was cleaned. Just like micellar water, often recommended for combination to oily skin, the cleansing oil did not encourage sebum synthesis but had a better protective effect on the hydrolipidic film. Although the study does not specify if the volunteers had oily skin, it remains interesting.

Note : In practice, the compatibility of a cleansing oil with oily skin largely depends on its composition, a point discussed below.

To determine if a cleansing oil is suitable for oily skin, it is recommended to analyse its INCI list. Cleansing oils are primarily composed of oils but not all are equal for oily skin. Mineral oils, although less and less used but still present in some formulations, are not recommended as they have a strong occlusive power. They are therefore likely to form a film on the skin surface and block the sebum's evacuation. Mineral oils can be recognised by their INCI names "Paraffinum Liquidum", "Petrolatum", "Cera Microcristallina" or "Mineral Oil".

It is therefore advisable to opt for a cleansing oil based on vegetable oils. However, caution is needed: some have a rather thick texture and may not be suitable for oily skin. It is generally recommended to rely on the comedogenicity index of vegetable oils and avoid those with an index of 2 or higher when one has oily skin. Vegetable oils from jojoba, hazelnut, grape seed, and sunflower stand out for their lightness and compatibility with this skin type.

To prevent any oily residue on the skin after using a cleansing oil, it is crucial to rinse it off thoroughly. For a deep skin cleanse, we recommend following up with a water-based cleanser.

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• LI L. & al. The optimal cleansing method for the removal of sunscreen:Water, cleanser or cleansing oil? Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2019).

• CHANG B. S. & al. Comparative Analysis of Skin Condition after Using Cleansing Oil and Cleansing Water for Removing Facial Makeup. Medico-Legal Update (2019).

• DIANZANI C. & al. Topical dermocosmetics and acne vulgaris. Dermatologic Therapy (2020).