What are the benefits of cleansing oil?

The cleansing oil is a product renowned for its effectiveness in removing and cleaning the skin, including when dealing with water-resistant (waterproof), long-lasting makeup or stubborn sunscreen. The effectiveness of this treatment can be explained by its composition rich in fatty substances capable of attracting and encapsulating oily particles present on the surface of the epidermis, such as makeup, sebum or pollution, which accumulate on the skin throughout the day.

For enhanced effectiveness of the cleansing oil and improved skin cleansing, we recommend following the application of the cleansing oil with an aqueous cleanser, to perform a double cleanse.

A study conducted with 20 volunteers recently compared the effectiveness of a cleansing oil, an aqueous cleanser, and water in removing both water-resistant and non-water-resistant sunscreen. Before and after cleansing photos were taken using the VISIA analysis system, a high-definition visualisation system that provides highly detailed and accurate images of facial skin. After applying the sunscreen, the volunteers waited for 30 minutes in a room with controlled temperature and humidity (20-24°C, 50%-60%), before being asked to remove the sunscreen by gently rubbing their face for two minutes with either water only (3.5 L), an aqueous cleanser (0.5 g), or a cleansing oil (0.6 g). The residual rate of sunscreen was then evaluated. The results are compiled in the table below.

The cleansing oils, often rich in vegetable oils and fatty acid esters, are also known for their gentleness. Indeed, while traditional cleansers are sometimes accused of weakening the skin's hydrolipidic film, this protective veil made up of sebum and sweat located on its surface, most cleansing oils have lipid-replenishing properties and work to strengthen the hydrolipidic film.

A study conducted in South Korea has shed some light on the effects of cleansing oil, comparing it to micellar water. Ten women wearing makeup applied cleansing oil to their left cheek and micellar water to their right cheek. Two hours later, the amount of sebum on their faces was measured using a sebumeter. A value of 205.29 µg/cm2 was obtained for the cheek where the cleansing oil was used, compared to 172 µg/cm2 for the one where micellar water was applied. It's worth noting that the sebum level was 250 µg/cm2 before the skin was cleansed. The cleansing oil thus had a protective effect on the sebum and, by extension, on the hydrolipidic film, unlike the micellar water. However, this did not result in an increase in sebum synthesis, an important point to highlight for oily skin, which suffers from excessive sebum production.

The ability of a cleansing oil to strengthen or disrupt the hydrolipidic film also depends on the surfactants and emulsifiers found in its formulation. Products containing irritating sulfates, such as sodium laureth sulfate or sodium lauryl sulfate, can destabilise the skin's balance.