Composition huile démaquillante.

What is the cleansing oil composed of?

Cleansing oil is a staple of double cleansing, effectively removing makeup, excess sebum, and impurities accumulated throughout the day. Its unique feature is its lipophilic nature, allowing it to easily dissolve substances. Although the compositions of cleansing oils vary across brands, certain categories of ingredients are always present. Let's decipher them together.

Which ingredients are found in cleansing oils?

The cleansing oil is an oily treatment designed to remove makeup, including water-resistant or long-lasting formulas, as well as impurities accumulated on the skin throughout the day. Its oily texture facilitates the removal of residues by dissolving them before transforming into an emulsion upon contact with water. Known for its ability to respect the hydrolipidic film and the skin barrier as a whole, the cleansing oil is suitable for all skin types and leaves the skin supple and soft after use. Its effects are enabled by the various compounds it contains:

Vegetable or esterified oils.

As their name suggests, cleansing oils are primarily composed of oil. Originally, they often contained mineral oils, but these are increasingly being replaced by vegetable or esterified oils, favoured for their naturalness and the sensory experience they bring to skincare. Moreover, mineral oils are very occlusive and can be poorly tolerated by oily skin types. Among the vegetable oils most commonly found in cleansing oils, we can mention jojoba oil (INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil), sunflower oil (INCI: Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil), sweet almond oil (INCI: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil) and camellia oil (INCI: Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil), appreciated for their gentleness and nourishing effect.

As for esterified oils, these are vegetable oils modified by an esterification reaction, which replaces all or some of their triglycerides with esters. This process enhances their stability, feel, and absorption capacity, making them less greasy and lighter on the skin. One of the most well-known is the Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, derived from coconut oil.

Emulsifiers.

The cleansing oils have the unique characteristic of turning into milk upon contact with water, which facilitates their rinsing and prevents leaving a greasy film on the skin. This property is enabled by the emulsifiers, amphiphilic molecules that stabilise emulsions. They form an interface around the droplets of the dispersed phase, preventing their coalescence and thus ensuring a uniform texture to formulations. The most commonly found emulsifiers in cleansing oils are Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, a gentle surfactant derived from glycerine and fatty acids, and PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, a synthetic emulsifier ensuring good dispersion of the oil in water and optimal rinsing.

Antioxidants.

Primarily composed of vegetable oil(s), cleansing oils are susceptible to oxidation, a phenomenon that can alter their colour, texture, smell, effectiveness, and safety. To protect them from oxidation and extend their shelf life, antioxidants, such as vitamin E, are added to their formulation. It's worth noting that, contrary to popular belief, vitamin E is not a preservative in the strict sense of the term as it does not possess antibacterial properties. Nonetheless, it remains indispensable for protecting oil-based formulations.

Preservatives.

Although cleansing oils are anhydrous, meaning they are free from water, the main factor for microbial growth, certain sensitive ingredients found in some cleansing oils, such as aloe vera, require the addition of preservatives to prevent any microbial development. This could, for example, be phenoxyethanol, a synthetic preservative, or ethylhexylglycerin, derived from glycerol.

Analysis of the INCI list for Typology's 7-ingredient cleansing oil.

At Typology, we offer a 7-ingredient cleansing oil suitable for all skin types, including the most sensitive or oily skins. Designed solely from essential ingredients for its function, it contains sweet almond oil, which is nourishing and soothing, and sunflower oil, known for its antioxidant properties. Effective even on water-resistant or long-lasting makeup, the 7-ingredient cleansing oil can be used on the entire face, including sensitive areas such as the eye contour and lips.

INCI NameCommon NameOriginFunction(s)
Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil (Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil)Sunflower Vegetable OilSunflower seedsNourishing, emollient, antioxidant
Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCaprylic/Capric TriglycerideCoconutEmollient, texture-enhancing agent
Polyglyceryl-4 OleatePolyglyceryl-4 OleateDerived from the coconutEmulsifier
Isopropyl IsostearateIsopropyl IsostearateDerived from rapeseedEmollient, aids in makeup removal
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) OilSweet Almond Vegetable OilPlant-based (almonds)Nourishing, emollient
TocopherolVitamin EPlant-based (oils)Antioxidant
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed OilHybrid Sunflower Seed OilPlant-based (sunflower seeds)Nourishing, aids in makeup removal
Decoding the formula of Typology's 7-ingredient cleansing oil.

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