How to select a facial cleansing gel?

Like all daily care products, the selection of a cleansing gel is based on one's skin type. Indeed, each skin type has specific needs and ingredients it can or cannot tolerate. To assist you in making a choice, be aware that there are four types of skin:

• Oily skin : Oily skin is easily recognised by its tendency to shine, its enlarged pores, and its frequent blemishes, factors due to an excessive production of sebum by the sebaceous glands. Given that oily skin already suffers from an imbalance, it is important to provide it with a purifying but gentle cleanser. Indeed, a product that is too harsh could strip the hydrolipidic film that protects the skin. In response, the skin could produce more sebum, thus creating a vicious cycle. Cleansing gels based on salicylic acid, zinc PCA or succinic acid are particularly recommended to regulate sebum production, unclog pores and prevent blemishes.

• Normal skin : As the name suggests, normal skin is balanced and has few, if any, blemishes. These skin types tolerate a wide variety of cleansers, provided they respect the skin's balance. Formulas containing antioxidants, such as vitamin C or green tea extract, can be beneficial and offer additional protection against oxidation factors.

• Combination skin : Straddling the line between oily and normal skin, combination skin is an intermediate category that features an excess of sebum in the T-zone and a drier epidermis on the cheeks. To care for this skin type, it is recommended to use a purifying yet gentle cleansing gel, similar to that recommended for oily skin.

• Dry skin : Dry skin is characterised by feelings of tightness due to a lack of sebum production and a fragile skin barrier. This skin type requires nourishing care. It is generally recommended for dry skin to opt for a cleansing milk or a washing cream, products with a rich texture. However, they can occasionally use a cleansing gel, for example once or twice a week, for a slightly deeper cleanse.

At Typology, we go a step further and distinguish 24 skin typologies. In addition to the amount of sebum secreted, we consider oxidative stress exposure and the skin's ageing stage. You can complete our skin diagnosis in a few minutes by answering some questions.

A good cleansing gel should not only rid the skin of impurities: it should also maintain its natural balance. To ensure this, it is recommended to check its composition. The surfactants, responsible for the foaming effect and the cleansing power of a gel, are particularly to be monitored. Some, like sulfates, particularly sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate, are known to be too harsh and can disrupt the skin by eliminating the lipids that make up its hydrolipidic film. A gentler alternative is to favour non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants, such as cocoyl glutamate or decyl glucoside, which clean effectively without harming the skin.

Another interesting criterion to consider is the pH of the product. The skin has a somewhat acidic pH, around 5.5, which promotes the maintenance of the skin microbiota and the hydrolipidic film. A cleansing gel with a too high pH can disrupt this natural acidity and lead to feelings of discomfort and inflammatory reactions. To avoid these inconveniences, it is also recommended to opt for a cleansing gel containing hydrating and soothing active ingredients, such as glycerine or sugars. This also makes skin cleansing more pleasant and prevents feelings of tightness after rinsing. Finally, we advise you to avoid cleansing gels containing allergens or drying alcohols that can weaken the skin barrier, particularly if you have sensitive skin.

Seasonal variations influence the condition of the skin and its cleansing needs. The cold, wind, and indoor heating during the winter can impair the skin barrier and promote dehydration, while the heat and humidity of the spring and summer stimulate sebum production and perspiration. To maintain skin balance throughout the year, it is advisable to adjust your cleansing gel according to the seasons. Thus, in winter, when the skin tends to be drier and rougher, a gentle cleansing gel enriched with hydrating and soothing agents, such as glycerine and aloe vera, helps to limit feelings of tightness. Conversely, when it is hot and humid, it is recommended to opt for a lighter gel with purifying properties, containing, for example, zinc, to effectively eliminate excess sebum and perspiration.

A flexible approach, which takes into account the skin's reactions to climate changes, helps to maintain its comfort throughout the year.

• MOLDOVAN N. & al. Influence of cleansing product type on several skin parameters after singe use. Famarcia (2010).

• DRAELOS Z. The science behind skin care: Cleansers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2017).