Present in small amounts within the body, zinc is a trace element essential for its proper functioning. When applied externally, it has several benefits for the skin. That's why it is included in the composition of a number of skincare products in various forms such as zinc oxide, zinc gluconate, or even zinc PCA. How can one incorporate a zinc-based skincare product into their daily routine to target specific needs?
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Summary
- Zinc for maintaining skin, hair, and nails
- The various zinc-based treatments
- How to incorporate zinc into a daily routine?
- Zinc at Typology
Published February 23, 2024,
by
Maylis, Chemical Engineer
—
12 min read
Topics:
Zinc for maintaining skin, hair, and nails.
Zinc is present in more than thirty cosmetic ingredients, with varying degrees of controversy and diverse actions (antimicrobial, surfactant, foaming agent, pH regulator...). Its concentration is restricted in Europe according to the Cosmetic Regulation to 1% zinc in the final product.
What are the benefits of zinc for the skin?
When applied topically, zinc is a comprehensive anti-acne agent. This trace element possesses anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and healing properties that are highly beneficial for acne. Indeed, it inhibits the growth of the Propionibacterium acnes, which is the bacteria primarily responsible for this skin condition. Furthermore, zinc reduces the activity of the sebaceous glands due to its anti-androgenic activity. Thus, it helps to regulate sebum production and consequently prevents blemishes.
What are the benefits of zinc for hair?
Essential for the "beauty" of hair, zinc contributes to the synthesis of keratin, the protein that makes up the hair fibre. Its ability to combat cellular ageing due to its antioxidant power mitigates the signs of ageing on the hair. These signs usually manifest as a loss of volume, unusual hair discolouration, and thinning. Zinc also has purifying and antibacterial properties. It helps to regulate sebum production and thus prevents the excesses that cause oily scalps and imbalances. It thus helps to limit the appearance of oily dandruff, and is therefore found in many hair care products targeting this issue.
For your information : it is primarily the zinc pyrithione (INCI: Zinc Pyrithione) that was found a few years ago in the main anti-dandruff hair treatments. However, this active ingredient is now highly controversial (suspected mutagen, potential reproductive toxicant, potential aquatic ecotoxicity) and above all banned in Europe (Annex II/1670 of the cosmetic regulation). Instead, zinc PCA or zinc gluconate are now used, which are much gentler and pose no risks to health and the environment.
What are the benefits of zinc for nails?
Zinc has the unique property of strengthening nails, as it aids in the synthesis of keratin, the primary protein that constitutes nails.Beyond strength and growth, zinc gives your nails a well-groomed appearance. A treatment containing a sufficient amount of zinc is applied directly to the nails. Circular massages help the treatment to penetrate. A course of a few weeks can restore a beautiful appearance to your nails.
It should be noted : due to its antimicrobial action, zinc-based ingredients are also found in toothpastes (anti-plaque properties), as well as in deodorants and antiperspirants.
The various zinc-based treatments.
In order to purify the skin, protect the hair, combat dandruff, and maintain nails, various galenic formulations containing zinc are now available on the cosmetic market. This active ingredient can thus be found in creams, lotions, serums, shampoos, hair masks, hair serums, toothpastes, deodorants, and so on.
Zinc, in the form of zinc oxide, also serves as aprotective anti-UV filter. It is used in sun creams, acting as a shield on the skin's surface. Indeed, it iseffective in blocking and diverting UVA and UVB rays, thus protecting the skin from the harmful effects of the sun. Be aware, in some products, it may be of nanometric size. The health risks are as follows: suspected percutaneous penetration, suspected reproductive toxicity, suspected genotoxicity, suspected carcinogenicity. Moreover, regarding the environment, there is also suspected aquatic ecotoxicity. Despite this, this UV filter remains bio-compatible according to the COSMOS standard.
At Typology, we apply the precautionary principle and exclude nanoparticles from our formulas. Oursun creamface SPF30 with aloe vera contains non-nanometric zinc oxide.
Nevertheless, whether in nano form or not, exposure to high concentrations of this mineral compound is likely to cause inflammation of the respiratory tract as well as pulmonary issues. For this reason, the European Regulation has banned the presence of zinc oxide (nano or not) in spray formulas since 24th February 2018. Furthermore, zinc oxide is listed in Annex VI of the European Regulation which governs UV filters. Whether in nanometric form or not, its maximum permitted concentration as a UV filter is 25%.
How to incorporate zinc into a daily routine?
Areas of application :
A zinc-based treatment can generally be applied to the entire body, without any contraindications. However, to avoid any discomfort, it is better to adhere to the application area indicated on the specific treatment.
Application Frequencies :
Zinc-based actives are not photosensitising species: they do not increase skin sensitivity to the sun's UV rays. Thus, you can apply a zinc-containing skincare product morning and evening. However, do ensure to protect your skin every morning with a broad-spectrum sun protection, for example, one that contains zinc oxide (without nanoparticles).
Application methods according to the galenic forms used :
Generally, serums are more concentrated in active ingredients than creams.To apply a serum, pour 3 to 7 drops into the palm of your hands. Using your fingertips, apply the treatment evenly across the face and neck. Massage gently. Regarding the application of a zinc cream, take a small amount of the product and spread it over the entire face. Allow it to penetrate by massaging gently.
Zinc at Typology.
We utilise a plant-based zinc, derived from beetroot. It is then combined with L-PCA. The latter is a physiological vector, meaning an active ingredient that facilitates the assimilation of zinc by skin cells.
To take advantage of the properties of zinc for your skin and scalp, you can select one or more of our following treatments.
Thepurifying cleansing gelcontains 2% zinc PCA combined withbamboo extract (INCI name: Phyllostachys Bambusoides Extract). The bamboo naturally contains porous particles, which absorb excess sebum on the skin. This high absorption capacity helps to reduce skin shine. Therefore, this compound is particularly recommended for combination to oily skin types.
Specifically designed for oily skin, the matifying serum is concentrated in zinc PCA, in azelaic acid (10%) of plant origin; as well as in organic bamboo extract to reduce excess sebum. Of plant origin, the azelaic acid is known for its anti-comedogenic and anti-bacterial effects. Indeed, this molecule acts to unclog pores and reduce the formation of open comedones (otherwise known as blackheads). It also helps to combat the bacteria involved in acne.
Due to its content of sebum-regulating and antibacterial actives, ourpurifying face creammade from 4% zinc PCA and bamboo extract is ideal for moderating sebum secretion, achieving a refined skin texture, and preventing the appearance of unsightly blackheads. It should be applied daily to clean, dry skin and over yourface serum, using small circular movements during application until the cream is fully absorbed. However, this cream is not recommended for pregnant and breastfeeding women due to the essential oils it contains.
Formulated without talc, silicones and nanoparticles, our translucent mattifying loose powder targets shiny and oily skin. A true hybrid product between skincare and makeup, it contains up to 1% of zinc PCA. This element helps to absorb excess sebum for an immediate and lasting matte finish, thus helping to prolong the wear of tinted treatments. It also includes 0.1% ofhyaluronic acid (INCI name: Sodium Hyaluronate): this hygroscopic compound can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, making it a powerful skin care ingredient for instant hydration.
For oily dandruff, the purifying hair serum allows for long-lasting removal, it is necessary to rely on sebum-regulating active ingredients. Our purifying scalp treatment is composed of 4% of zinc PCA and nettle extract (INCI name: Urtica Dioica (Nettle) Leaf Extract) which are known for their purifying and sebum-regulating properties. In addition to this, it contains essential oils of peppermint (INCI name: Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil) andeucalyptus globulus (INCI name: Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil) which, thanks to their antibacterial and antifungal virtues, help to purify the scalp by fighting against the proliferation of microorganisms responsible for dandruff.
The local blemish serum contains 2% of salicylic acid and 1% of zinc for a antibacterial and purifying overall action. It is typically used as a treatment, over a limited period of time, in local application: a single drop is enough for an isolated spot.
Thepurifying body serumbased onzinc PCAandtea tree essential oil (INCI name: Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil) is applied locally to blemishes. It helps to combat spots that do not only appear on the face but can also be found on the body.
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