What are the benefits of azelaic acid for the skin?

Theazelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid that is naturally found in wheat, rye, and barley. It was in 1978 that Dr. Marcella NAZZARO-PORRO from the Dermatological Institute of Gallicano (Rome, Italy) began studying the depigmenting properties of azelaic acid. Since then, studies on this dicarboxylic acid have multiplied. They have demonstrated that this acid possesses interesting biological properties to act against certain skin diseases such as vulgar acne and rosacea. Medications that contain it generally have a concentration between 15 and 20%.

In cosmetics, the azelaic acid content in a product is typically around 10%. At this concentration, this molecule remains effective and provides numerous benefits to the skin, detailed below.

• Regulating Keratinisation:

  The process of keratinisation is also known as cell differentiation. This is a maturation process of skin cells, which load up on keratin to result in dead cells that make up the horny layer. Thus, azelaic acid regulates this process, resulting in a smoothed skin texture and a limitation of pore obstruction by dead cells, preventing the formation of blackheads and comedones.

• Combatting bacteria:

  Azelaic acid possesses excellent anti-bacterial properties. Numerous studies have demonstrated its ability to limit the proliferation of bacteria such as P. acnes and S. epidermidis, which are implicated in the inflammatory reactions of acne. Enriched with plant-derived azelaic acid and bamboo extract to reduce excess sebum and mattify oily skin, the matifying serum Typology is used morning and evening, before your moisturising cream. It is particularly recommended for combination and oily skin prone to acne.

• Reducing Inflammations:

  Thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties, azelaic acid reduces redness as well as marks left by blemishes (we refer to post-inflammatory erythema). Studies have shown that azelaic acid inhibits the secretion of pro-inflammatory cytokines, such as interleukins IL-1β and IL-6, and the transcription factor TNF-α. Furthermore, another study demonstrated that azelaic acid promotes the regulation of kallikrein-5 in epidermal keratinocytes, which in turn lower cathelicidins, reducing inflammatory processes.

• Fading pigmentation spots:

  Hyperpigmentation-related issues can be categorised into three types: the melasma, directly linked to hormonal fluctuations ; the lentigo, small round or oval spots typically caused by UV radiation ; and thepost-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which results from a surplus production of melanin following an inflammation. Azelaic acid reduces the production of melanin in hyperactive areas where darker spots may appear. To do this, it inhibits tyrosinase, an enzyme necessary for the production of melanin in the skin.

Note : Studies contradict each other regarding the action of azelaic acid on sebum. Some researchers have demonstrated that it does not change its composition or quantity, but rather acts by fractionating free fatty acids on the skin's surface, hence its mattifying effect. The skin shines less, appears less oily, and the complexion is unified and matte throughout the day. Other studies have suggested thatazelaic acid reduces the level of sebum due to its ability to inhibit 5α-reductase, an enzyme that locally converts testosterone into 5-dihydrotestosterone.

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• BUI T. P. & al. Azelaic Acid: Pharmacokinetic and Pharmacodynamic Properties and Its Therapeutic Role in Hyperpigmentary Disorders and Acne. International Journal of Dermatology (1995).

• ZOUBOULIS C. C. Acne and sebaceous gland function. Clinics in Dermatology (2004).

• PARONE P. & al. Randomised controlled trial, correlation between sebostatic activity, tolerability and effectiveness of three topical medications for the treatment of mild to moderate acne. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (2007).

• THIBOUTOT D. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2008).

• The numerous roles of azelaic acid. Cosmetics Business (2016).