Dilated pores and tartaric acid: what are the effects?

Also known astartaric acidand2,3-dihydroxysuccinic acid, tartaric acid is widely found in nature. It is present in vines, grapes, and vine leaves, as well as in dandelions, sugar beets, and many fruits. Therefore, tartaric acid belongs to the family of fruit acids: the alpha-hydroxy acids. In the 18th century, it was first isolated from grapes by Carl Wilhem SCHEEL, a Swedish apothecary. Since the mid-20th century, it can be produced from the residues of wine production, using sulfuric acid.

Tartaric acid is commonly used in the food industry to enhance the taste of sweets, ice creams, and juices, among other things. Beyond its industrial uses, the tartaric acid has become a common ingredient in skincare products due to its keratolytic and astringent properties. It comes in the form of a crystalline powder. Its action primarily targets signs of ageing, blemishes, acne, as well as damage caused to the skin by the sun.

As their name suggests, the pores distribute the sebum across the surface of the epidermis to moisturise the skin. They are located all over the body with a few exceptions such as the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet. They are connected to the sebaceous glands. These are generally attached to hairs (hair follicles), but there are some areas where they are not (for example, the areola of the nipples and the eyelids).

Pores can become unsightly when they are enlarged, giving the appearance of an uneven skin texture. According to a study, skin pores are said to be "visible" and "enlarged" when their diameter fluctuates between 0.06 and 0.1 mm.

Pores expand for a variety of reasons. This phenomenon is usually accompanied by the appearance of blackheads. Blackheads, as well as dilated pores, are most often visible on oily, combination, or blemished skin. They primarily appear on the T-zone (forehead, nose and chin), the areas of the face where the skin is greasiest.

Two types of causes are responsible for dilated pores:

• Internal causes: Sex, genetic predisposition, skin ageing, overproduction of sebum (hyperseborrhea), hormonal fluctuations;

• External causes: Chronic exposure to UV rays, use of comedogenic xenobiotics, poor skin hygiene (accumulation of dirt and impurities on the skin's surface).