Antioxidant cream: what are its benefits for the skin?

An antioxidant is an agent that possesses the property ofpreventing or slowing down the oxidation process of a substrate, and therefore the production of free radicals. Within the body, there is a constant balance between oxidative defences and pro-oxidant species: in other words, antioxidants are continuously eliminating free radicals. Although it has been proven that the presence of small amounts of free radicals are necessary for the proper functioning of metabolism (defence mechanism against microbes, elimination of old or defective cells, etc...), they can become harmful if they are produced in excess.

An imbalance then sets in (excessive production of free radicals or absence/deficiency in antioxidants) and reactive oxygen species (ROS) begin to cause damage to vital components of cells (DNA, proteins, lipids...) with the result being a disruption in the skin's natural ability to regenerate and in cellular communication, a premature ageing of the skin or even in the long term being the cause of skin cancers. Indeed, free radicals will activate a myriad of signalling pathways which among other things lead to a reduction in collagen production, and the synthesis and activation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP) responsible for the degradation of connective tissue, thereby promoting skin ageing.

Although free radicals are a natural by-product of processes occurring within the body, these incomplete molecules are not solely generated by the body itself. Numerous external factors (pollution, stress, lack of sleep, sedentary lifestyle, UV rays, smoking, alcohol consumption, electromagnetic waves, allergens, etc...) are known to trigger or increase their production, which then manifests as signs of ageing (age spots, skin sagging, fine lines, etc...), a loss of radiance and an increase in skin sensitivity (photosensitisation, redness, irritations…).

To produce energy, the body's cells undergo oxidations, concurrently generating free radicals. These are atoms that carry one or more unpaired electrons on their outer layer. However, the presence of these single electrons makes the molecule unstable and hyper-reactive towards other substances.

This chemical entity will strive at all costs to react with neighbouring molecules in order to regain an electron and form a stable pair, destabilising them in the process. Consequently, the attacked molecule becomes unstable in turn, thus creating a new free radical. However, when the number of free radicals exceeds what the skin can naturally eliminate, this results in damage to proteins, unsaturated lipids of cell membranes, and DNA. Among the damaged cells are keratinocytes, melanocytes, and fibroblasts that produce collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid, or melanin.

On the other hand, it has been proven that antioxidants are capable of stabilising these molecules and counteracting their formation, thereby halting this chain reaction and protecting the molecules from oxidation. How do they work? These chemical species possess extra electrons and have the ability to donate electrons. They also prevent the triggering of glycation and lipid peroxidation reactions, and the creation of DNA damage. The care enriched with antioxidants then helps to combat the phenomenon of oxidation that promotes premature skin ageing.

It is for these reasons that an increasing number of cosmetic product manufacturers are introducing antioxidant actives into their facial creams to make the skin more resistant to these aggressions. Among the known natural anti-radical agents, we can find vitamin C and its derivatives (INCI name: "Ascorbic Acid", "Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate" or "Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate"), polyphenols including flavonoids (such as anthocyanins, quercetin, resveratrol...) and carotenoids (like beta-carotene, lutein, zeaxanthin...), vitamin E (INCI name: "Tocopherol"), ferulic acid, retinoids (INCI name: "Retinol", "Retinyl Acetate", "Retinyl Palmitate", "Retinyl Propionate", etc...), coenzyme Q10 (INCI name: "Ubiquinone"), etc... They are used to protect and correct skin damage. These creams will therefore help to limit the damage by providing a protective shield, if applications are regular and if they are used preventively.

At Typology, we have developed a face cream with antioxidant properties enriched with Vitamin C (generally unstable, we use its synthetic version "Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate") and withlemon extract (INCI name: "Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Water") for daily use. The compounds it contains will help combat the phenomenon of oxidation. Indeed, the 5% of Vitamin C helps to counteract the harmful effects that ROS can cause and assists the skin in dealing with external aggressions.

Furthermore, vitamin C stimulates the production of keratinocytes, which play a role in enhancing the skin's elasticity. On the other hand, lemon extract tones while unifying the complexion. Our cream also contains vegetable glycerin known for its humectant properties. It helps to maintain hydration by limiting water evaporation while softening the skin. However, containing yellow mandarin essential oil (INCI name: "Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil") for its energising and regenerating virtues, it is not suitable for pregnant or breastfeeding women. For even more protection, incorporate into your morning skincare routine a sunscreen with a minimum SPF30.

Additional Information : Several other of our products contain antioxidants: you can find them in our radiance toner, our radiance face serum and our tinted serum which contain a derivative of vitamin C for optimal protection against free radicals. Our antioxidant face serum is also packed with antioxidants, particularly ferulic acid. We also find in our eye contour serum and our eye contour cream coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10). Studies have shown that CoQ10 accelerates the production of basal membrane components, such as laminin and type IV and VII collagens in keratinocytes and fibroblasts, respectively.

• ITOH M. & al. Coenzyme Q10 safeguards against cell death induced by oxidative stress and boosts the production of basement membrane components in dermal and epidermal cells. Skin Research and Technology (2009).

• MASAKI H. Role of antioxidants in the skin: anti-aging effects. Journal of Dermatological Science (2010).

• MAIPRASERT M. & al. Anti-ageing and brightening effects of a topical treatment containing vitamin C, vitamin E, and raspberry leaf cell culture extract: A split-face, randomised controlled trial. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2020).