Azelaic acid occurs naturally in certain cereals such as barley and is one of the dicarboxylic acids. It is contained in medicines for the treatment of acne, which are applied topically, with concentrations usually ranging from 15 to 20%. In skin care, creams and serums rarely contain more than 10%. However, the effectiveness against skin impurities and the mattifying effect is given even at this concentration.
Oily Skin (+): How to Mattify It With Azelaic Acid?
Summary
Published on March 1, 2024, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 4 min of reading
Themes:
What Is Meant by “Shiny Spots”?
Sebaceous glands are responsible for the production of sebum. They are located at the root of most of our hair. An overstimulation of these glands leads to an excessive production of sebum (especially during puberty, but also in adulthood), which is responsible for the shine or glow of the skin.
Some areas of the skin are more shiny than others. This depends solely on the number of hair follicles that open up at the surface of the skin. On the face, this number varies between 400 and 900 per cm³. The region with the most sebaceous glands, and therefore the most sebum, is the T-zone (chin, nose, forehead). It is therefore logical that the most shiny areas are located in this zone.
How Does Azelaic Acid Mattify Oily Skin?
Azelaic acid is particularly suitable for combination to oily skin. Excessive sebum production, typical for oily skin, leads to the appearance of acne. This can leave traces. As a natural antibacterial agent, azelaic acid helps to contain the bacteria responsible for inflammation.
As for the mattifying effect of azelaic acid, studies contradict each other. The skin is less shiny, looks less oily, and the complexion is even and matte throughout the day. Other studies suggested that azelaic acid reduces sebum levels due to its ability to inhibit 5α-reductase, an enzyme that locally converts testosterone to 5-dihydrotestosterone.
To take advantage of this acid, be sure to choose products of natural origin that have a concentration of at least 10% azelaic acid. Supplement your routine with a variety of skin care products designed for shiny and blemish-prone skin.
How Is Azelaic Acid Applied?
Azelaic acid cosmetic treatment can be applied daily, morning and evening. The dosage depends on your skin type and its needs. To counteract the possible drying effect of azelaic acid, you should apply a moisturizer appropriate for your skin type after treatment with azelaic acid. We recommend that you use our azelaic acid serum for at least four weeks to see an effect.
Sources
GOA K. L. & al. Azelaic acid, a review of its pharmacological properties and therapeutic efficacy in acne and hyperpigmentary skin disorders. Drugs (1991).
BUI T. P. & al. Azelaic acid: pharmacokinetic and pharmacodynamic properties and its therapeutic role in hyperpigmentary disorders and acne. International Journal of Dermatology (1995).
ZOUBOULIS C. C. Acne and sebaceous gland function. Clinics in Dermatology (2004).
PARONE P. & al. Randomized controlled trial, relationship between sebostatic activity, tolerability and efficacy of three topical drugs to treat mild to moderate acne. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (2007).
The many functions of azelaic acid. Cosmetics Buisness (2016).
