Skincare products formulated in the field of cosmetology are designed to address a specific skin issue or to enhance the regeneration of skin cells. There are treatments composed of a single active ingredient and others that combine several essential ingredients to amplify the effects of the treatment. Here are some interesting active ingredient combinations to use with glycolic acid.
Which active ingredients should be combined with glycolic acid?
Summary
Published on July 26, 2024, by Stéphanie, PhD, Doctorate in Life and Health Sciences — 5 min of reading
Themes:
A few words on glycolic acid.
Whether of natural or synthetic origin, glycolic acid is an acid categorised among the AHA or fruit acids, used for its keratolytic properties. Considered one of the key active ingredients in chemical exfoliation, this active principle is capable of eliminating dead skin cells to promote skin cell renewal. Glycolic acid is recommended for the treatment of combination to oily and blemish-prone skin. However, it is not advised for sensitive and atopic skin. In addition to the keratolytic effect, glycolic acid also contributes to the hydration of the skin's surface.
With which active ingredient can glycolic acid be combined?
To amplify its effects on the skin, it is possible to mix it with other active ingredients. However, be careful when you layer/mix glycolic acid with certain actives. Indeed, a poor combination can lead to side effects such as itching, skin inflammation, redness, etc... Here are the combinations to favour:
Combining glycolic acid with azelaic acid is particularly effective in targeting various skin issues, such as blemishes or uneven skin tone (melasma, brown scars, etc...). Studies have shown that combining these two active ingredients on top of each other helps to even out your complexion (reduce the appearance of brown spots) and treat blemishes. For example, to address your blemish problem, you can apply the glycolic acid exfoliating lotion followed by the azelaic acid mattifying serum. With its exfoliating properties, glycolic acid promotes the absorption of azelaic acid.
If your skin tolerates retinol well, combining it with glycolic acid is a good idea given their different actions. A study has shown that the combination of glycolic acid and retinol proves to be effective in treating acne and brown acne scars. However, this combination is not recommended if you have sensitive skin, as it can lead to skin dryness. Otherwise, a good way to incorporate retinol into your beauty routine in addition to glycolic acid would be to alternate them every other evening: one evening using retinol, another evening using a non-rinse exfoliating treatment followed by a moisturising cream.
The associations of risk factors with glycolic acid.
Even though some combinations of active ingredients are beneficial for the skin, others are less so as they can trigger certain skin reactions, especially in individuals with sensitive skin:
Glycolic acid and salicylic acid both have an exfoliating effect on the skin. They are excellent ingredients to use separately, but mixing them could cause a skin reaction (dryness, irritation, redness) and compromise the skin barrier, particularly if they are used on very dry and sensitive skin. The same would be true for the combination of glycolic acid and lactic acid.
Using niacinamide and glycolic acid together can indeed help to improve skin texture, pigmentation, acne, and signs of ageing, but layering these ingredients would be counterproductive. Indeed, the glycolic acid serum has a low pH of 3 - 4, while the niacinamide has a higher pH around 5 - 7. If they are mixed, the niacinamide will increase the pH of the glycolic acid treatment and the latter will be less effective. Moreover, this can cause redness.
Sources
PINCUS S. H. & others. Efficacy and safety of azelaic acid and glycolic acid combination therapy compared with tretinoin therapy for acne. Clinical Therapeutics (1998).
NAVALE S. & al. The combination of retinoic acid and glycolic acid in the treatment of acne scars. Indian Dermatology Online Journal (2015).
DUA R. & al. Combination of glycolic acid peel and topical 20% azelaic acid cream in melasma patients: efficacy and improvement in quality of life. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2017).
