What are the benefits of glycolic acid?

Whether of natural or synthetic origin, theglycolic acid, formerly known as hydroxyacetic acid, is the smallest of the alpha-hydroxy acids (A.H.A.). It is also referred to as a fruit acid, alongside the likes of citric acid, malic acid and lactic acid. This molecule is typically derived from sugar cane, grapes or beetroot. It stands out among the A.H.A.s due to its powerful keratolytic activity and its small size, which allows it to penetrate the skin deeply. It is considered the reference active ingredient when one wishes to boost skin radiance, treat acne issues, hyperpigmentation and even wrinkles, or to hydrate the skin.

Glycolic acid is incorporated into the formulation of a wide range of skincare products: toners, serums, shower gels or creams. Its concentration in cosmetic products, varying between 4 and 20%, depends on the identified needs. Beyond 20%, the concentration of glycolic acid allows for a chemical peel. As a result, its use is then strictly supervised by a professional and falls into the category of dermatological or aesthetic treatments. Besides the concentration, the pH of the formula will have an influence on the intensity of the exfoliation. Indeed, the higher the pH, the more the action of the glycolic acid is neutralised.

Renowned for its exfoliating power, glycolic acid helps to regulate sebum production in oily skin and thus to inhibit the formation of blemishes, caused by pore obstruction from dead cells, which leads to the emergence of blackheads and acne. As such, with the pores unblocked and less dilated, spots and blackheads become less frequent. Moreover, this active ingredient helps to reduce acne scars thanks to its exfoliating action, promoting cell renewal. As a result, these skin irregularities are diminished. Therefore, glycolic acid promotes skin texture uniformity and helps to restore smooth skin.

Thanks to its peeling effect, glycolic acid effectively removes dead, dull, and dehydrated cells from the surface of the epidermis. This exfoliating action allows healthy cells to emerge (cell renewal), which restores radiance and brightness to the face. It can also reduce hyperpigmentation. Indeed, depending on the concentration of glycolic acid, exfoliation can rid the skin of melanin-rich skin cells on the surface. This phenomenon can even trigger cell renewal at the basal layer of the skin, the deep layer of the epidermis, where the melanocytes, the melanin-producing cells, are located. This therefore allows to diminish brown spots caused by age or sun exposure (including melasma) and thus lighten the complexion. It also contributes to the synthesis of hyaluronic acid and provides a hydrating effect to the horny layer of the skin. Result: the epidermis regains its firmness and the complexion its radiance, and the skin is plumped, softer and smoother.

Glycolic acid also operates on several levels to combat the signs of skin ageing, in addition to its depigmenting action against brown spots, caused by an accumulation of melanin, which can appear with age. Indeed, glycolic acid can penetrate as far as the dermis. In this context, it can stimulate the synthesis of collagen and elastin, which weakens with age, responsible for the firmness and elasticity of the skin, and also the production of hyaluronic acid, a natural humectant responsible for skin hydration, which tends to gradually decrease with age. Thus, glycolic acid helps the skin to maintain a good level of hydration, to firm and tone, but also to fade wrinkles and fine lines.