What you need to know about Arbutin Acid.

Arbutin acid is a cosmetic active ingredient also known under the name alpha-arbutin or by its scientific name 4-Hydroxyphenyl-alpha-D-glucopyranoside. This molecule is naturally present in certain plants, such as the ash heather, cranberry or blueberry. However, it is in the leaves of bearberry that it is possible to extract the most. This active ingredient can also be manufactured synthetically, notably from hydroquinone, a chemical substance renowned for treating skin discolouration or hyperpigmentation.

Note: The beta-arbutin (β-arbutin) is an isomer of alpha-arbutin (α-arbutin), which is also present in some anti-spot treatments. However, studies have shown that alpha-arbutin is ten times more effective than beta-arbutin on hyperpigmentation.

Arbutin acid is often referred to asnatural hydroquinone due to its pigment regulatingcharacteristics. When applied topically, its remarkable effectiveness is due to its perfect affinity with the active site of tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in the formation of melanin. Thus, this competitive inhibition of the enzyme's active site blocks its activity and consequently the synthesis of melanin. Due to its lightening properties, this active ingredient is recommended for fading acne marks (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation), sun spots and pregnancy masks.

Due to these properties, this active ingredient is present in our Hyperpigmentation Serum at a concentration of 2%, combined with another lightening compound, lemon extract. We recommend using this treatment daily for a minimum of 6 weeks in order to observe its effects on your pigmentation spots.

This active ingredient also has a strong antioxidant activity. Thus, it inhibits the formation of free radicals, extremely reactive oxygen-derived species that degrade healthy skin cells and proteins, accelerating its ageing.

Alpha-arbutin is currently emerging as a natural and safe alternative to hydroquinone. To recall, this molecule is a bleaching agent that has been banned in cosmetics since 2001 in Europe due to its carcinogenic potential.

When applied topically at high concentrations, arbutin acid can cause mild irritations and/or redness. According to a report published in 2015, the SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) considers the use of alpha arbutin in cosmetic products to be safe for consumers at a concentration of up to2%in facial creams and up to0.5%in body lotions.

Arbutin acid can be combined with other brightening agents, such as kojic acid, glutathione, and hydroxides. No adverse combinations have currently been reported.

Please note : When ingested, this substance is not recommended for breastfeeding and pregnant women, or those suffering from severe liver disorders or irritating digestive diseases.

• ICHIASHI M. & others, Effect of arbutin on melanogenic proteins in human melanocytes. Pigment Cell & Melanoma Research (1998).

• Report from the CSSC on alpha-arbutin (22nd July 2015).

• KAULPIBOON J. & al. Optimisation of amylomaltase for the synthesis of α-arbutin derivatives as tyrosinase inhibitors. Carbohydrate Research (2020).

• MOHAMMADAMINI H. & al. An exhaustive review of the therapeutic potential of alpha-arbutin. Phytotherapy Research (2021).