Which eye contour should you choose at 40?

The eye contour at 40 years old is often weakened by the passing years. Indeed, it is observed that at 40 years old, the eye contour has lost approximately 25% of its collagen, 10% of its elastin and 50% of its hyaluronic acid that it had at 20 years old. These different molecules play a significant role in the structure of the skin. The collagen and elastin are protein support fibres that provide flexibility, elasticity and firmness. As for hyaluronic acid, it is a biomolecule ensuring its hydration, density and tonicity.

Furthermore, around the age of forty, the synthesis of ceramides begins to decrease. These lipids of the stratum corneum play a barrier role in the epidermis where they act as an intercellular cement. This results in a weakening of the skin, which becomes more prone to dryness issues. It also loses structure and becomes hollowed out.

Typically, the eye contour is the area of the face where the first signs of ageing become apparent, and where the infamous crow's feet wrinkles emerge, taking the form of furrows etched from the outer corner of the eye to the temples. These expression lines are common at 40 years old and result from the overuse of facial muscles, for speaking, smiling, or squinting, as well as various biological changes that occur in the skin over time. Thus, at 40 years old, wrinkles are quite pronounced and deep, even at rest, and the skin slackens, under the eye contour, leading to the formation of fatty pouches or hollow dark circles, and at the level of the eyebrow arch.

During quarantine, the main concern is todiminish existing wrinkles and continue to slow down skin sagging. Although cosmetics cannot perform any miracles, tightening eye contour treatments help to tone the skin and delay its sagging.

However, it is crucial to continue moisturising this delicate area to limit water loss, which is, among other things, responsible for fine lines. Therefore, alternate between these two types of care, opting for a hydrating treatment in the morning to enhance the look and replenish the water deficit, and a firming treatment in the evening to strengthen the area and assist the skin in regenerating overnight.

During quarantine, we are therefore looking to hydrate the eye contour and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. The star hydrating ingredient in eye care remains the hyaluronic acid. Generally, we distinguish two types. High molecular weight hyaluronic acid stays on the surface of the epidermis and creates a protective film, similar to the natural hydrolipidic film of the skin. The other type found in cosmetics is said to be low molecular weight, it penetrates deeper into the epidermis where it strengthens and stimulates the natural production of hyaluronic acid. For better effectiveness, some eye contour treatments combine these two forms of hyaluronic acid. You can also rely on other hydrating active ingredients, such as the squalane, the aloe vera gel, or the glycerine.

Also consider using an eye contour treatment that contains firming and tightening active ingredients, such as retinol, the bakuchiol, or Q10. These various ingredients are recognised for their action on wrinkles and various signs of ageing. However, it should be noted that the application of retinol is not recommended if you have sensitive skin and this active ingredient should be used exclusively in the evening, due to its photosensitising nature. Regarding their mode of action, the tightening actives work by stimulating the synthesis of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. Retinol, for example, is metabolised into retinoic acid once absorbed by the skin and binds to retinoid X receptors, triggering a cascade of reactions leading to the stimulation of fibroblast activity. However, firming treatments are not miracle products. They somewhat reduce the depth of wrinkles but will not be able to make them disappear.

Note : after applying the eye contour treatment, it is important to protect the entire face with a broad-spectrum sunscreen, including the area around the eye. Being very thin, it easily allows UV rays to penetrate. You can also opt for an eye contour treatment containing SPF.

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• PUIZINA-IVIC N. Skin aging. Acta dermatovenerologica Alpina, Pannonica, et Adriatica (2008).

• ROBERT A. M. & al. Le vieillissement cutané - rôle de l'élastine. Médecine et longévité (2009).

• ROTSZTEJN H. & al. The eye area as the most difficult area of activity for esthetic treatment. Journal of Dermatological treatment (2022).