What You Need To Know About PHAs

Poly-hydroxy acids (PHAs) are qualified as second-generation alpha-hydroxy acids. They work by exfoliating dead skin cells that have accumulated on the surface of the skin to revive the complexion and tighten pores. This chemical peeling also helps other skin care ingredients penetrate deeper into the skin's layers, improving their effectiveness.

The three main P.H.A.s used in cosmetics are listed below:

• Gluconolactone or gluconic acid: This is a P.H.A. naturally present in skin cells. This antioxidant fights effectively against inflammation.

• Galactose: It is also naturally present in the body. Its role is to stimulate the production of collagen.

• Lactobionic acid: This is a lactose derivative that has a moisturizing and soothing effect.

PHAs are real allies in maintaining and promoting a healthy epidermis. Indeed, these active ingredients have multiple advantages and act on several levels to erase irregularities and revive the radiance of dull and tired complexions:

• P.H.A. are known for their keratolytic effect. They help to eliminate the dead cells which can block pores and smooth the texture of the skin. They act by dissolving the intercellular links to stimulate cell renewal. This process is called chemical exfoliation. Thus, they prevent the appearance of blackheads and signs of aging such as wrinkles and fine lines. 

• Several studies have demonstrated their anti-inflammatory properties. Therefore, P.H.A.s are particularly recommended to treat oily skin with a tendency to have acne and/or skins with marks due to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

• P.H.A. are also moisturizing: they capture and retain water in the epidermis and thus reduce the dryness of the skin by half.

• Lastly, they fight against the phenomenon of glycation, a biological process that causes the degradation of elastin and collagen, essential proteins of the dermal tissue to preserve firm and elastic skin.

Moreover, P.H.A. are smaller molecules than A.H.A. (glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid...) and B.H.A. (salicylic acid); thus, they penetrate less far into the skin layers, and are generally well tolerated by all skin types, even the most sensitive ones which cannot apply A.H.A. and/or B.H.A.