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Benefits of PHAs

What are the benefits of PHAs?

PHA stands for Poly-Hydroxy Acid. This is a group of chemical exfoliants that provide a gentler peeling than AHA (Alpha-Hydroxy Acid) such as glycolic acid and BHA (Beta-Hydroxy Acid) like salicylic acid. Discover their main benefits in this article.

Summary
Published March 1, 2022, updated on October 2, 2024, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 4 min read
PHA

What are P.H.A.s?

P.H.A.s are acids derived from plant materials. Indeed, they are primarily molecules derived from sugar. Among the P.H.A.s used in skincare, three compounds are predominantly present.

  • Lactobionic acid or bionic acid is a disaccharide formed from gluconic acid and galactose.

    Rich in hydroxyl groups (-OH), it has a strong affinity for water molecules, making it an excellent humectant. In other words, it retains water in the superficial layers of the skin, thereby maintaining its plump and bouncy appearance.

  • The gluconolactone, is acyclic ester (actone) derived from gluconic acid.

    This refers to a molecule found in nature and in food, particularly in honey, fruit juices and wine in small quantities. Like lactobionic acid, this active ingredient has numerous hydroxyl groups (-OH); therefore, it is a good moisturiser for the epidermis. Moreover, it is also recognised for its antioxidant activity: it combats free radicals and oxidative stress, thus preventing skin ageing.

  • Galactose, a monosaccharide with the raw formula C6H12O6.

    This P.H.A. is also recognised for its hydrating properties.

Note : In a cosmetic formula, the type of P.H.A. used is rarely mentioned on the packaging. It is then necessary to analyse the I.N.C.I. list to know which molecule is present. However, the three P.H.A.s presented below have substantially the same moisturising and regenerating actions.

P.H.A.s, gentle exfoliants for the skin.

Sensitive and reactive skin requires gentle exfoliation.With a larger molecular size than A.H.A. and B.H.A., P.H.A. penetrate less deeply into the epidermis and are more suitable for atopic, sensitive and/or skin with cutaneous conditions.

As exfoliating agents, P.H.A.s help to remove dead cells accumulated on the skin's surface, stimulating cellular renewal. Consequently, the complexion appears more radiant and the skin texture becomes refined. This also aids in unclogging pores, thereby preventing the emergence of blemishes. Moreover, due to their hydrophilic nature, they retain moisture in the superficial layers of the skin, promoting its hydration.

In which Typology skincare products can one find P.H.A.s?

Typology has developed three formulas based on P.H.A.:

  • The exfoliating cleansing gel with 5% PHA andaloe vera offers a gradual micro-exfoliation of the skin to unclog pores, smooth the skin texture and reveal a radiant and even complexion.

  • The anti-mark serum is enriched with brightening and repairing active ingredients, such as gluconolactone from the P.H.A. category and the extract of Centella asiatica. To fade acne scars, apply a drop locally to the affected areas, only in the evening.

  • The peeling mask composed of an exfoliating complex based on A.H.A. and P.H.A. eliminates dead cells and unclogs pores. The skin texture is refined and the complexion is evened out. It is used in the evening, once or twice a week.

Sources

  • GRIMES P. E. & al. The application of polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) in photoaged skin. Cutis (2004).

  • HEARING V. J. & al. Applications of Hydroxy Acids: Classification, Mechanisms, and Photoactivity. Clinical Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (2010).

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