What properties does Centella asiatica have for the skin?

The Centella asiatica firstly contributes to the maintenance of skin hydration. To achieve this, it acts at several levels of the epidermis thanks to its richness in hygroscopic compounds (sugars, polyphenols, etc.). These compounds can retain water within the stratum corneum and form a thin, slightly occlusive surface film, thereby reducing evaporation. Simultaneously, Centella asiatica helps to strengthen the barrier function of the epidermis, resulting in an improved ability of the skin to retain moisture over time.

These mechanisms constitute some of Centella asiatica’s primary benefits for the skin, particularly when applied to the face. They were demonstrated in an in vivo study carried out on 25 volunteers, assessing the hydrating effect of cosmetic formulations (hydrogel and emulsion) containing 5% extract of Centella asiatica, applied twice daily for four weeks. The researchers measured stratum corneum hydration with a corneometer and transepidermal water loss using a tewameter. From the first week of application, a significant increase in stratum corneum hydration was observed, suggesting a rapid action of the extract on the skin’s ability to retain water. In parallel, a significant decrease in transepidermal water loss was measured, reflecting an improvement in the integrity of the skin barrier.

The oxidative stress is an imbalance between free radical production and the skin’s antioxidant defences.

Exposed to UV radiation, pollution, smoking or even cellular metabolism, free radicals can accumulate in the skin and damage cellular lipids, proteins and DNA. Over time, this contributes to the degradation of the dermal matrix, to a reduction in cellular repair capacity, and to the acceleration of skin ageing, hence the importance of incorporating antioxidants into your skincare routine.

The Centella asiatica has a well-documented antioxidant activity, which is often cited as one of gotu kola’s main benefits for the skin, especially when it is exposed daily to environmental aggressors. These effects are largely attributed to its triterpenes, in particular asiatic acid. These compounds are capable of directly reducing the production of free radicals and lipid peroxidation, while also restoring endogenous antioxidant defences. More precisely, asiatic acid activates the Nrf2 signalling pathway, notably via the Akt and ERK pathways, leading to an upregulation of enzymes involved in the antioxidant response, such as heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1), NAD(P)H quinone oxidoreductase-1 (NQO1) and glutamyl-cysteine ligase. At the same time, these triterpenes limit the production of pro-oxidant and pro-inflammatory mediators, such as nitric oxide, TNF-α and IL-6, thereby indirectly reducing the oxidative burden within skin tissues.

This antioxidant activity was illustrated in a study conducted on human dermal fibroblasts subjected to oxidative stress induced by hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂). Pretreatment of the fibroblasts with various concentrations of Centella asiatica (15–60 µg/mL) allowed to significantly attenuate H₂O₂-induced cytotoxicity. Gene expression analyses revealed a marked upregulation of cellular antioxidant enzymes, notably catalase (CAT) and superoxide dismutases 1 and 2 (SOD1, SOD2). This was accompanied by inhibition of matrix metalloproteinase MMP-9, an enzyme involved in extracellular matrix degradation under oxidative stress.

The collagen is a major structural protein in the skin, essential for maintaining its firmness and suppleness. Primarily synthesised by dermal fibroblasts, it forms the backbone of the extracellular matrix. With age and under the influence of environmental factors such as UV rays, its production declines while its breakdown accelerates, gradually contributing to skin laxity and the onset of wrinkles.

Several studies suggest that Centella asiatica may have a beneficial effect on collagen production. This action on the dermal matrix is among the most sought-after benefits of tiger grass in cosmetics. A study in vitro investigated the effects of an extract of Centella asiatica (TECA) composed of asiatic acid (30%), madecassic acid (30%) and asiaticoside (40%), on human fibroblast cultures. The results show that this botanical extract increases collagen synthesis in a dose-dependent manner. Analysis of the individual constituents identified asiatic acid as the main compound responsible for stimulating collagen production. Moreover, the extract of Centella asiatica and each of the three triterpenes led to an increase in proline and hydroxyproline levels associated with collagen, two amino acids that form part of its structure.

Although these results are derived from cellular models, they suggest that the Centella asiatica could contribute to the maintenance of dermal structure by supporting the biological mechanisms involved in collagen synthesis.

The antioxidant activity of Centella asiatica, combined with its potential effect on collagen synthesis, has logically led the scientific community to question its relevance with regard to skin ageing. This question was notably explored in a randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial conducted on 60 women, which evaluated a cosmetic emulsion combining several plant extracts, including the Centella asiatica (3%), in association with the Phyllanthus emblica and the Momordica cochinchinensis. After 60 days of application, the volunteers who received the active formulation showed significant improvements in skin hydration, elasticity and several wrinkle parameters, both in the eye contour and cheek areas, compared with the placebo. Moreover, no signs of skin irritation were reported, confirming the good tolerability of the Centella asiatica.

Building on these findings, other studies have investigated the topical effect of Centella asiatica on wrinkles. One very recent study by KUO and colleagues involved 20 volunteers. They applied daily for 28 days an essence formulated with an extract of Centella asiatica as the main active ingredient. The other minor active ingredients included oat extract, chamomile extract, allantoin, ectoine, hyaluronic acid and arginine. Several clinical parameters were monitored throughout the study, notably skin elasticity and wrinkle intensity. The results show that after four weeks of use, wrinkles were significantly improved. However, since the tested formulation contained multiple actives, it is impossible to determine what proportion of the observed benefits can be attributed to Centella asiatica.

Historically, the Centella asiatica has long been used for its wound-healing properties. This effect is based on a synergy between its bioactive compounds, mainly asiatic acid and madecassic acid, which act at multiple levels of skin repair. In addition to stimulating fibroblast proliferation and collagen synthesis—two processes essential for rebuilding connective tissue—these molecules modulate inflammation, which can delay healing, while also providing antioxidant protection against oxidative stress. More precisely, the constituents of Centella asiatica promote keratinocyte survival and migration via activation of calcium-dependent pathways, AMPK signalling and ERK phosphorylation associated with mTOR, thereby contributing to improved skin barrier integrity and a favourable environment for regeneration.

This wound-healing action of Centella asiatica is particularly interesting for attenuating stretch marks or acne scars.

Several studies have investigated the effects of Centella asiatica on skin regeneration. One of these, conducted over a year, examined the effect of a Gotu kola powder (unspecified concentration) on the appearance of stretch marks in postpartum women. The researchers compared a group receiving Centella asiatica with a control group receiving only education on stretch mark management. Initially, all participants had clearly visible stretch marks, but the use of Centella asiatica appeared to have a positive effect.

Nevertheless, these data must be interpreted with caution : the sample size is small, the protocol was not randomised, and the dosage form used (powder) as well as the assessment, which was subjective, remain poorly standardised. More robust clinical studies are therefore required to confirm the efficacy of Centella asiatica on stretch marks, even though, concurrently, numerous studies demonstrate its general wound-healing activity.

The Centella asiatica is sometimes associated with beneficial effects on blood circulation. Its triterpenoid compounds are known to support tissue repair and collagen synthesis, including within the vascular wall. Some studies suggest they may promote angiogenesis, improve vascular tone and limit inflammation and oxidative stress that weaken capillaries. These mechanisms suggest that the Centella asiatica could have a positive impact on blood circulation, but caution is warranted, as the available data are still limited.

These potential effects on microcirculation explain the rationale for Centella asiatica in addressing issues such as dark circles and puffiness, the lacklustre complexion due to poor skin oxygenation, or sensations of heavy legs.

An observational study, for example, evaluated a cream combining Centella asiatica with other active ingredients (blackberry, sodium hyaluronate, vitamin E, sweet clover) in 35 individuals exhibiting symptoms of chronic venous insufficiency. Applied twice daily for 10 days, the treatment was associated with a progressive reduction in the proportion of participants reporting symptoms related to heavy legs, such as pain, itching or swelling, with improvements observed as early as the fifth day. These findings support a beneficial effect of Centella asiatica on blood circulation, but should be interpreted with caution: the study lacked a control group, the formulation contained multiple actives, and the assessment was based primarily on subjective sensations.

The Centella asiatica is widely recognised for its anti-inflammatory properties, which rely on several complementary biological mechanisms. Its active compounds, notably triterpenes, help to reduce the production of pro-inflammatory mediators such as TNF-α, IL-1β and IL-6, as well as the expression of inflammation-related enzymes such as COX-2 and iNOS. This effect is largely mediated by the inhibition of the NF-κB signalling pathway. Meanwhile, the Centella asiatica strengthens the skin’s antioxidant defences, helping to limit oxidative stress and maintain a more soothing cutaneous environment. These calming properties lie at the heart of tiger grass's benefits for the skin.

Thanks to these properties, Centella asiatica is particularly suited to soothing sensitive or reactive skin, especially in cases of redness or discomfort.

A prospective clinical study conducted in 88 women with sensitive skin assessed a facial cream combining Centella asiatica, ceramides NP and panthenol, applied over four weeks. The results show a marked reduction in the overall skin sensitivity score (SS-10), with a 66% reduction after two weeks and a 76% reduction after four weeks. Associated symptoms, such as irritation, tightness, itching and redness, each significantly regressed, alongside an improvement in stratum corneum hydration. Although this study was self-controlled and based on a formula combining multiple active ingredients, it suggests that the use of Centella asiatica may help soothe sensitive skin and improve comfort.

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