Occasional spots: 3 active ingredients to use.

At the root of the hairs hang small "sacs", the sebaceous glands, which contain and secrete sebum. If the hair follicle is blocked by an accumulation of dead cells, the sebum cannot escape and builds up under the skin, causing a raised area: this is the birth of a spot. This environment is conducive to the proliferation of bacteria such as P. Acnes, which can cause inflammation (red spot) and sometimes an influx of white blood cells (pus formation). According to some studies, the consumption of fast-absorbing sugars (sweets, processed products, sodas ...) and dairy products would be correlated with the emergence of new spots.

Very mild acneis characterised by microcystic comedones and blackheads. Inflammatory lesions such as papules and pustules are infrequent but can still occur.

• The papules are inflammatory skin features characterised by a solid consistency swelling, that is to say containing neither liquid nor pus, of small size (size from 1 to 4 mm) and of a pink to red colour.

• The pustules are small inflammatory lesions of the skin characterised by a well-defined and circumscribed elevation of the epidermis (diameter less than 5 mm) and topped in their centre by a purulent liquid of white colour or yellow.

Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (B.H.A.), known for its keratolytic action which promotes desquamation (the shedding of dead skin cells). Discovered in 1829 by the pharmacist Pierre-Joseph LEROUX, this active ingredient is commonly used in the field of skincare and in medicine. Indeed, aspirin is a synthetic ester derived from salicylic acid.

In cosmetics, this active ingredient can be of synthetic or natural origin. The exfoliating and anti-microbial virtues of salicylic acid make it a choice ally for treating blemishes of all kinds, and caring for oily skin. This active ingredient works on several levels:

• Skin cell renewal :

  Salicylic acid stimulates skin regeneration. Thanks to its keratolytic properties, it removes dead cells from the skin's surface and inhibits the pore blockage that causes acne. Thus, it effectively combats the appearance of blackheads and tightens pores for a brightened and unified complexion.

• Prevention of bacterial development :

  The surface of the epidermis can be colonised by harmful microorganisms that disrupt the microbiota and lead to redness, irritation or sometimes painful spots. Thanks to its properties as anantiseptic, salicylic acid prevents the proliferation of harmful bacteria, such as Cutibacterium acnes, a microorganism responsible for the inflammatory reactions of acne.

• Pain Relief :

  An acne-prone skin is often a source ofdiscomfort. Spots can cause tingling, itching, and burning sensations. The soothing virtues of salicylic acid alleviate the symptoms related to inflammation. Indeed, salicylic acid plays a role in the arachidonic acid cascade and inhibits the synthesis of prostaglandins E2, molecules responsible for inflammatory and painful effects. In the treatment of acne, it thus soothes painful spots and visibly reduces redness.

Our local imperfection serum is concentrated at 2% in salicylic acid. It is also enriched with zinc (1%), a sebum-regulating and antimicrobial trace element. It is applied locally, in small amounts after your daily face serums . Generally, one drop is sufficient for a single spot. The first results will be observable after three days. Potentially sensitising, we recommend applying this product only in the evening.

Theniacinamideis a water-soluble derivative of thevitamin B3. It helps to restore the skin's barrier function and participates in the healing process. It reduces marks and redness left by blemishes, such as acne scars. Thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties, niacinamide is a choice active ingredient for improving the overall appearance of blemish-prone skin.

We have developed several formulas containing this multifunctional active ingredient.

• The unifying serum Niacinamide 12% helps to reduce redness and blemishes while refining the skin's texture. This serum should be applied morning and evening to a face that has been previously cleaned and dried. An application period of 4 weeks is necessary to see its effects.

• The unifying toner contains 7% niacinamide and aids in evening out the skin tone and reducing redness and blemishes. Its pH, which is notably similar to that of the skin, helps to rebalance the skin's pH after the makeup removal/cleansing stages.

• The unifying cleansing gel is concentrated with active ingredients to reduce redness associated with blemishes and even out the complexion while cleansing the skin of impurities. The gentle, plant-based surfactants that make up this gel are non-drying and cleanse the skin without damaging its hydrolipidic film. The skin is left feeling soft, supple and comfortable.

For a long time, retinol has been a favoured solution in the treatment of acne in both teenagers and adults. However, this compound can be harsh on sensitive skin and/or skin already weakened by acne breakouts.

For about a decade, studies have been focusing on the comprehensive anti-acne action of bakuchiol. It operates on several levels.

• It reduces inflammation.

  Inflammation is another issue for skin affected by acne. Unfortunately, there are few options available to directly alleviate the inflammation that accompanies acne. However, studies show that bakuchiol has a strong inhibitory activity against COX-2, an enzyme that contributes to the formation of prostaglandins, hormones that mediate inflammation.

• It combats P. acnes.

  A study demonstrates that bakuchiol exhibits excellent inhibitory activity against P. acnes, and it is highly effective in inhibiting other microorganisms such as Staphylococcus and Candida.

• It limits the excessive production of sebum.

  Excess sebum clogs the skin's pores, allowing bacterial growth that leads to inflammation, infection and visible acne. Bakuchiol works by reducing the secretion and thus the activity of an enzyme, 5-α-reductase. This enzyme converts testosterone into DHT, which binds to the androgen receptors of the sebaceous glands and triggers an excessive production of sebum.

• It promotes the healing of micro-lesions.

  It has been demonstrated that acne-prone skin contains higher levels of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP) than so-called normal skin. These enzymes, primarily collagenase and elastase, degrade the matrix in the acne lesion and thus slow down the healing of skin affected by acne. Topical application of bakuchiol inhibits the activity of these enzymes, preventing them from hindering the healing of micro-lesions left by acne spots.

We have developed theblemish serumwith 1% bakuchiol and hazelnut vegetable oil, known for regulating sebum production and rebalancing the hydrolipidic film. Entirely natural, this treatment is suitable for blemish-prone and acne-prone skin. It's worth noting, even though this serum is not photosensitising (it does not increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun's UV rays), we recommend its use primarilyin the evening, at the end of your routine, due to its rather rich texture.

A pilot clinical study has demonstrated that bakuchiol effectively reduces acne, but is more efficient when combined with salicylic acid. According to the results, formulations containing 1% bakuchiol and 2% salicylic acid showed a reduction of nearly 70% in acne lesions and inflammation.

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• Ratan K. Chaudhuri, Bakuchiol in the Management of Acne-affected Skin, Cosmetics & Toiletries, (2011).

• E Papakonstantinou et al, Matrix metalloproteinases of epithelial origin in facial sebum of patients with acne and their regulation by isotretinoin, J Invest Dermatol, (2005).

• M Pechere, L Germanier, G Siegenthaler, JC Pechere and JH Saurat, The antibacterial activity of topical retinoids: The case of retinaldehyde, Dermatol, (2002)

• BOISSY R.E. & al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. British Journal of Dermatology (2002).

• GEHRING W. Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2004).

• KREFT D. & al. Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology (2014).