Vitamin C and skin ageing.

Skin ageing is a unavoidable phenomenon in living beings. It is due, among other things, to a decrease in the rate of cell renewal, a change in the composition of the dermis and the molecules that constitute it (hyaluronic acid, collagen...) and the melting of fatty and muscular tissue which no longer plays its supporting role.

Furthermore, this natural process can be accelerated by lifestyle factors (poor diet, smoking, excessive alcohol consumption, sun exposure, stress, lack of sleep...).

Skin ageing is then characterised by the appearance of wrinkles, pigmentation spots, visible dilated vessels and a thinning or thickening of the epidermis.

Vitamin C, or L-ascorbic acid, is particularly relevant for topical application to combat the appearance of ageing signs. Its effectiveness is based on three essential actions:

• Neutralising free radicals:

  Free radicals, generated by a variety of factors (pollution, cigarette smoke, stress etc...) attack skin cells and accelerate their ageing. Vitamin C neutralises the action of these free radicals by donating an electron to make these molecules more stable and less reactive. In doing so, it delays skin ageing and protects the skin from external aggressions.

• Stimulating collagen production:

  Collagen is a fibrous protein found in the dermis that provides flexibility and firmness to the skin. However, over the years, its production by the body tends to decrease, leading to skin sagging and the appearance of wrinkles. To counteract this, vitamin C is a real ally as it boosts the synthesis of collagen in the skin and thus slows down the appearance of signs related to skin ageing.

• Preventing the appearance of spots:

  Several studies have demonstrated the lightening power of Vitamin C. This molecule inhibits the amount of melanin produced by the skin's pigment cells. It interacts with tyrosinase, an enzyme responsible for converting the amino acid tyrosine into melanin, thereby reducing pigmentation.

In order to minimise the signs of ageing, Typology offers skincare treatments with varying concentrations of Vitamin C, suitable for all skin types:

• The Wrinkle and Firmness Serum is comprised of 99% naturally derived ingredients. This treatment contains vegetable collagen (1%) as well as vitamin C (10%). The hydrolysed vegetable collagen, known in I.N.C.I. as " Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen/Collagen Amino Acids" is a biotechnological active ingredient that mimics type I human collagen. It works in synergy with vitamin C to stimulate fibroblasts, which produce collagen fibres and thus reduce the depth of wrinkles.

• The radiance facial serum is highly concentrated in Vitamin C (11%) and provides a real boost to dull and tired complexions. This treatment also contains 3% of Albizia Julibrissin extract. This Asian-origin plant restores vitality to the skin. Together, these ingredients help to slow down photo-ageing.

• The antioxidant face cream is more suitable for sensitive skin, its concentration of vitamin C being lower than that present in the serum. This cream works on the skin cells in depth to prevent premature ageing. It also tones the complexion and hydrates the skin.

• Enriched with active ingredients to balance the skin's pH, brighten the complexion, and reduce the appearance of pigmentation spots, the Vitamin C radiance toner also contains lemon verbena water for a light fruity scent. After the makeup removal steps, this toning lotion is applied with a cotton pad across the entire face, avoiding the eye contour, and does not need to be rinsed off.

• CHIANG N. & al. Topical vitamin C and the skin: Mechanisms of action and clinical applications. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology (2017).

• VISSERS M.C.M. & al. The role of vitamin C in skin health. Nutrients (2017).

• TRICAUD C. & al. Vitamin C prevents ultraviolet-induced pigmentation in healthy volunteers: Bayesian meta-analysis results from 31 randomized controlled versus vehicle clinical studies. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology (2019).