The dangers of Vitamin C.

Generally, vitamin C treatments do not pose any health risks. Indeed, they are now formulated using micro-encapsulated vitamins, which eliminates the need for an acidic pH to keep this compound stable over time. As a result, skincare products containing this active ingredient are less irritating than before, their pH being closer to that of the skin.

Vitamin C cosmetic products are designed for all skin types ; however, although rare, side effects can occur on the most sensitive skins. Indeed, following a vitamin C skin treatment, some people have experienced itching, skin irritations, burns, and tingling. In this case, we advise you to adapt your skincare routine. Prioritise creams over serums, as the concentration of vitamin C is lower. Avoid combining vitamin C with other potentially irritating active ingredients such as fruit acids and retinol. Space out the applications (prefer using a vitamin C treatment in the morning OR evening).

Strictly speaking, there are no contraindications to the use of a vitamin C-based skincare product for topical application. It is only advised not toapply this acid to your epidermis if you have a wound that is currently healing to avoid the risk of irritation.

Let us remind ourselves thatit is entirely possible to apply a product containing this active ingredient before sun exposure. Vitamin C will thus protect the skin cells from free radicals and oxidative stress caused by UV radiation. However, it is important to apply a sunscreen right after the vitamin C treatment, to maximise protection from the harmful effects of the sun.

• Vitamin C and Acids:

  It is advised against combining vitamin C with potent acids such as alpha-hydroxy acids (lactic acid, glycolic acid, etc...), azelaic acid and salicylic acid. This mixture may cause irritations and inflammations at the epidermis level. Therefore, apply your salicylic acid treatment or azelaic acid or AHA in the evening and your serum with the vitamin C in the morning to avoid side effects.

• Vitamin C and Retinol:

  Do not combine these two active ingredients at the same time in your skincare routine. Both are effective in combating the signs of ageing but do not work synergistically. On the contrary, applying one after the other can cause significant irritation or even unwanted peeling. To benefit from their effects optimally, apply your vitamin C treatment in the morning and your retinol cream in the evening.

• TELANG P. S. Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatology Online Journal (2013).

• RICCI LEONARDI G. & al. Vitamin C: One compound, several uses. Advances for delivery, efficiency and stability. Nanomedicine: Nanotechnology, Biology, and Medicine (2020).