How to use glycolic acid?

Often referred to as fruit acid, glycolic acid is a potent active ingredient that features in many beauty products: from peels to masks, through to targeted serums or night creams such as purifying treatments for oily skin, brightening or even anti-wrinkle, body care, shampoos and conditioners, and even toners and cleansing lotions.
Being part of the alpha-hydroxy acid (A.H.A.) family, glycolic acid is derived from fruit sugars (beetroot, grape, sugar cane, pineapple, etc...). Its low molecular weight (M = 76.05 g/mol) gives it a great ability to penetrate into the deep layers of the skin. On the market, the percentages of A.H.A. in individual products fluctuate between 4% and 10%. Therefore, it is suitable for all skin types, provided that a product suitable for one's skin is chosen. Beyond this, the treatment should be carried out by a doctor.

This molecule is particularly valued for its exfoliating virtues. Indeed, glycolic acid reacts by simple contact and without friction with the stratum corneum by weakening the lipid bonds that link the corneocytes together, causing an acceleration of the natural desquamation process and the effective removal of impurities, thus revealing a smoother, more toned and younger skin underneath. Indeed, this results in a considerable improvement in the texture and appearance of the epidermis, due to a stimulation of cell regeneration and cutaneous microcirculation. The complexion is smoothed and luminous, the skin is purified (regulation of sebum secretion), the size of the pores is refined, and skin irregularities are diminished (acne scars, etc...).

Other effects are also documented: this acid also helps to reduce pigmentation spots by inhibiting the overproduction of melanin, as well as to restore firmness and hydration to the skin, and diminish the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines by stimulating the synthesis of collagen, elastin, responsible for skin tone, and hyaluronic acid. These benefits most often depend on the dosages and other active ingredients found in combination in cosmetic products.

Most skin types can benefit from the use of a glycolic acid-based skincare product. It is particularly suitable for dry, normal, combination to oily skin, prone to imperfections (enlarged pores, pimples, blackheads), dull, hyperpigmented, rough and mature skin. However, glycolic acid may not be favourable for some individuals. If you have sensitive skin, these treatments are probably not for you. We strongly advise you to consult a dermatologist before trying it. Indeed, it can trigger allergic reactions as well as irritations. Similarly, individuals with darker skin may face a risk of pigmentation with the use of glycolic acid.

Glycolic acid seamlessly integrates into formulas designed for combination to oily skin as a sebum regulator, thus preventing new acne outbreaks, pore blockage, and the formation of blackheads. For dry skin, this ingredient is recommended to increase skin hydration by contributing to the synthesis of hyaluronic acid. Glycolic acid can even help skin with a lot of pigmentation (sunspots, melasma, acne marks), making them less visible and evening out the complexion. It is also renowned for helping skin that appears tired and dull to look more radiant, fresher, brighter, and younger. On mature skin, treatments containing glycolic acid are appreciated for their brightening properties, their tightening effect, and their ability to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. Moreover, by removing the outer layer of dead cells and promoting cell renewal, it facilitates the absorption of other skincare products into the skin.