Dull complexion, enlarged pores, imperfections... the glycolic acid is a key active ingredient in cosmetic products, delivering numerous benefits. However, to reap its full potential, it must be used correctly. What is the proper way to use glycolic acid? We explain it all.
How should glycolic acid be used?
Summary
Published on August 18, 2021, updated on January 12, 2026, by Stéphanie, PhD, Doctorate in Life and Health Sciences — 7 min of reading
Themes:
The key points to bear in mind.
Used at a low concentration (< 10%), it is included in the formulation of many cosmetic products to be applied in the evening, always accompanied by moisturisation and sun protection.
Sensitive or novice skin should favour relatively low concentrations (≈ 5%), whereas more “resilient” or “acclimatised” skin can tolerate slightly higher dosages.
From concentrations of 20% upwards, it is recommended to use glycolic acid in a professional setting, such as a clinic or under the supervision of a dermatologist.
Dermatological peels are contraindicated in pregnancy, during breastfeeding, in the presence of allergies or skin lesions, or when taking photosensitising medications.
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Glycolic acid: how to integrate it into your skincare routine?
As an exfoliant, the glycolic acid presents a risk of drying out the skin. To counteract this effect, apply a moisturising cream suited to your skin type afterwards. Exfoliation also renders the skin more vulnerable to external aggressors, notably UV rays. For this reason, glycolic acid is preferably used in the evening, when cellular regeneration is at its peak. In the morning, it is essential to apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 30 minimum), whatever the weather. Without protection, the skin will redden more quickly and the risk of sunburn will be greater.
It is also advisable tostart with a low concentration (≈ 5%) and gradually increase it according to your skin’s tolerance. It is preferable to introduce glycolic acid gently to avoid redness or irritation. Likewise, avoid combining multiple irritant actives on the same day, such as other AHAs or retinoids, in order to minimise the risk of sensitivity.
When it comes to galenic formulation, anything is possible. You might choose a lightweight leave-on serum if you’re seeking rapid penetration and a gradual effect. Creams containing glycolic acid, on the other hand, are particularly suitable for more sensitive skin, as the inclusion of emollient agents helps to reduce the irritant potential of the active ingredient. In general, it is also advisable to favour formulas that combine glycolic acid with soothing or hydrating actives, such as hyaluronic acid or bisabolol, to enjoy exfoliation while minimising side effects. Finally, masks or peels with a higher concentration should be reserved for occasional use, at most once or twice a week.
How should you use Typology products containing glycolic acid?
At Typology, we have formulated three products containing glycolic acid:
The Exfoliating Serum : Formulated with 10% glycolic acid, it also contains soothing, anti-inflammatory and reparative agents such as bisabolol and chamomile extract. After a makeup removal and a thorough cleansing, apply 3 to 4 drops of serum to your face, then gently massage for a few moments to allow the actives to penetrate. This treatment does not require rinsing, but this is not always the case with glycolic acid products, hence the importance of carefully reading the suppliers’ instructions.
The Peeling Mask : This treatment combines the action of four AHAs and a PHA to act at different depths of the epidermis and remove dead skin cells. This mask-gel is applied once or twice a week for ten minutes before being rinsed off.
The Exfoliating Night Cream : Designed for daily use, it works day after day to unclog pores, minimise their dilation and prevent the formation of blackheads.
What is the procedure for using glycolic acid in a clinic?
Some clinics and dermatologists offer peel treatments using glycolic acid to diminish wrinkles, blemishes and pigmentation spots, and to restore radiance to the skin.
Before any glycolic acid peel session, a prior medical consultation is essential. The practitioner examines the skin, assesses the patient’s needs and determines whether the peel is appropriate. It is also at this point that they select the concentration of glycolic acid, typically between 20% and 70% in-clinic compared with 4% to 10% in cosmetic products, and the application time. A preparatory phase of skin conditioning is often recommended, involving daily application of a cream containing a low concentration of glycolic acid for around fifteen days to optimise exfoliation.
The peeling session itself is relatively straightforward and quick. After a thorough facial cleansing, the practitioner applies the glycolic acid solution using a brush or compress. The contact time is short – typically between 2 and 5 minutes – but it may be accompanied by a tingling or warming sensation. A neutralising solution is then applied to halt the acid’s action, before rinsing and soothing the skin with a moisturiser. Each session lasts around 20 minutes, with no need for social downtime, but strict sun protection (SPF 30 minimum) is essential in the days that follow.
Most professionals recommend three to six glycolic acid peel sessions, spaced two to three weeks apart.
Contraindications: As with any aesthetic dermatology procedure, the peel with glycolic acid is not suitable for everyone. It is not recommended in cases of pregnancy, breastfeeding, known allergies, active skin lesions or infection. The use of photosensitising medications also constitutes a contraindication.
Sources
WON Y. H. & al. The effet of glycolic acid on cultured human skin fibroblasts : Cell proliferative effect and increased collagen synthesis. The Journal of Dermatology (1998).
MAIBACH H.I. & al. Increased in vivo collagen synthesis and in vitro cell proliferative effect of glycolic acid. Dermatologic Surgery (1998).
GARG G. & al. Chemical peeling - glycolic acid in varying concentrations and time intervals. Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology and Leprology (2001).
MURUGAIAH C. & al. Efficacy and safety of superficial chemical peeling in treatment of active acne vulgaris. Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia (2017).
