How to limit the effects of tobacco on the skin and hair?

UV rays can exacerbate the effects of tobacco on the skin. A study conducted by Takuo TSUJI in 2001 highlighted a relationship between smoking and exposure to UVA rays and their impact on premature skin ageing. Indeed, in cases of excessive sun exposure (> 2 h/day) and heavy smoking, the risk of developing wrinkles was 11.4 times higher than in non-smokers and those less exposed to the sun, due to an increase in the metalloproteinase MMP-1. MMP-1 is considered responsible for the degradation of collagen and elastin fibres and is stimulated in response to oxidative stress, induced by tobacco and UV rays.

Furthermore, UV rays and smoking have both been linked to androgenetic alopecia, a condition that causes hair loss, and to hair greying. They induce the production of free radicals, which cause lipid peroxidation (or degradation) and can lead to an inhibition of hair follicle growth, but also to a degradation of hair pigments, thus causing a discolouration or alteration of the original hue.

What actions should be taken?

• Avoid sun exposure. When exposed to tobacco, it is crucial to minimise exposure to UV rays, specifically when the sun is at its zenith (between 12pm and 4pm), and seek shade as much as possible.

• Use sun protection. Ensure to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a minimum SPF 30 on your skin, which you should reapply every two hours for optimal protection, as well as wearing long-sleeved clothing.

  For your hair, choose an oil or serum containing a UV filter, which will protect your hair from the sun while enhancing its beauty. Also, consider wearing a cap to simultaneously protect your scalp.

An important emphasis must be placed on the cleansing of the skin and hair. Indeed, the effects of tobacco on the skin can manifest upon contact between smoke and skin through the deposition of harmful substances present in the smoke. Therefore, it is crucial to shower every day, and to thoroughly cleanse the skin (especially in the evening) using gentle cleansers.

Furthermore, washing your hair preferably every day can help you get rid of the smell of cigarette smoke in your hair, and eliminate all particles originating from the smoke.

Continue your routine by using a chemical exfoliant to ensure the removal of tobacco components. The acids work by breaking down the skin's sugars, which effectively detaches the cells from the epidermis and causes them to fall off. The dead cells accumulated due to the slowed cell renewal caused by smoking will then be eliminated, revealing a radiant complexion. Available over the counter, they should be used two to three times a week for best results. You can also have chemical peels done at aesthetic centres, which mix several exfoliating acids.

Antioxidants are essential if you are exposed to tobacco smoke, and therefore to oxidative stress. You can find them in facial serums, but also in shampoos. Antioxidants are molecules capable of capturing free radicals , which are unstable reactive oxygen species synthesised in response to oxidative stress.

These active ingredients can therefore slow down skin ageing, but also act against lipid peroxidation, and thus the impact on hair colour and condition. In addition, oxidative stress also disrupts cellular renewal, leading to an accumulation of dead cells on the skin, causing a dull complexion. Antioxidants will stimulate this renewal, and thus restore radiance to the skin.

For instance, we often find the vitamin E and the vitamin C. Several studies have proven the antioxidant properties of these two vitamins, due to the aromatic cycle of these compounds which has a free hydroxyl function capable of capturing free radicals and stabilising them by providing the missing electron. By utilising these antioxidant actives in cosmetic products, you will mitigate the effects of smoking on the skin, such as the appearance of wrinkles, dull complexion, and damaged hair.

They are also found in sun creams, which will provide you with dual protection against the harmful effects of smoking.

Other active ingredients are also beneficial to use in this context. These are ingredients that will restore the processes impacted by smoking. For instance, we can mention the retinol, an active ingredient known for stimulating fibroblasts to synthesise collagen fibres, thereby improving skin elasticity, while eliminating degenerated elastin fibres. Consequently, the skin regains its firmness. Moreover, retinol can also stimulate angiogenesis. Considering that smoking reduces microcirculation of blood, which degrades the complexion, retinol can therefore enhance blood circulation and the appearance of the skin.

Peptides, such as theacetyl tetrapeptide-3, are quite effective on hair follicles to prevent hair loss caused by smoking as previously mentioned. By extending the growth phase of the hair cycle (anagen phase), it promotes hair growth while reducing the resting phase (telogen phase). It also strengthens adherence to the scalp, which reduces hair loss and increases hair density.

It may seem obvious, but saying goodbye to cigarettes remains the most effective way to protect your skin against the impact of tobacco. The smoking exposes your skin to numerous harmful effects: acceleration of skin ageing, impairment of wound healing, emergence of skin conditions and skin cancers... Thus, several studies have shown a significant reduction in the skin effects of tobacco after quitting smoking.

For instance, in one study, it was observed that the association between smoking and squamous cell carcinoma of the skin, a type of skin cancer, presented a higher risk for current smokers (relative risk: 3.3) than for former smokers (relative risk: 1.9). Another study noted an upward trend in skin clarity upon cessation of smoking.

Do not hesitate to seek assistance in this endeavour, by using nicotine replacement therapies for instance.

• BOUWES BAVINCK J.N. & al. Relation Between Smoking and Skin Cancer. Journal of Clinical Oncology (2001).

• TSUJI T. & al. Skin aging induced by ultraviolet exposure and tobacco smoking: evidence from epidemiological and molecular studies. Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine (2001).

• TRÜEB R. M. Effect of Ultraviolet Radiation, Smoking and Nutrition on Hair. Current Problems in Dermatology (2015).

• BUDZISZ E. and ZASADA M. Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Postępy Dermatologii i Alergologii (2019).