Everything you need to know about bisabolol.

Bisabolol is a natural ingredient found in various plants, such as chamomile and candeia. It is often used in the cosmetic industry due to its multiple benefits for the skin and hair. It was from the essential oil of Chamomilla recutita, or wild chamomile, that bisabolol was first isolated in 1951.

When we delve into the chemistry of bisabolol, we find that there are two different forms, referred to as enantiomers : the (D)-alpha-bisabolol and the (L)-alpha-bisabolol. Only the natural and plant-based form, the L enantiomer, is active and possesses soothing, anti-irritant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. It is this form that is used in cosmetic care.

The bisabolol used in cosmetic care can be of plant or synthetic origin. In both cases, it retains all its properties. However, the chemical synthesis of bisabolol is less environmentally friendly due to the precursors used, which are derived from petrochemicals, and the additional purification steps this involves. This method involves a series of reactions, the main one being the Diels-Alder reaction, which corresponds to a cyclo-addition between a compound with two double bonds (diene) and a molecule with a double bond (alkene).

When derived from plants, bisabolol is obtained from the crystallisation of essential oil from either the candéia tree or German chamomile. This method involves cooling the essential oil to recover the bisabolol in the form of crystals. These crystals are then purified through filtration and successive washes before being dried.

Note : the bisabolol used in Typology skincare products is of plant origin.

An extremely gentle active ingredient, bisabolol is a friend to sensitive, irritated or dry skin. Its application brings numerous benefits to both the skin and hair.

• Moisturising : bisabolol acts as a humectant to retain water within the cells of the epidermis. It thus contributes to the maintenance of the skin barrier and to the prevention of dehydration fine lines.

• Anti-inflammatory : bisabolol has the ability to inhibit the activity of COX-2, an inflammatory membrane protein that releases prostaglandins, as well as the action of certain pro-inflammatory cytokines. Therefore, bisabolol can be used to soothe skin or scalp itching or certain redness.

• Antioxidant : Bisabolol shields the skin from free radicals, thereby aiding in the deceleration of skin ageing. It also protects the hair from the emergence of split ends or breakage.

• Healing : bisabolol promotes the activity of the fibroblast growth factor, the fibres responsible for the synthesis of collagen and elastin, which are essential for the formation of scar tissue. It also encourages the multiplication and migration of fibroblasts to the wound area.

• Prevention of ageing signs : bisabolol has the ability to inhibit collagenase, the enzyme responsible for the breakdown of collagen peptide bonds and its degradation. The action of bisabolol on collagenase helps to prevent this phenomenon and contributes to skin suppleness.

• Antibacterial : Numerous sources have demonstrated that bisabolol exhibits activity against certain resistant bacterial strains. This active ingredient can therefore help to regulate the bacterial populations living on our skin.

• Whitening : a study has highlighted the inhibitory effect of bisabolol on melanogenesis, making it an ally in the fight against pigmentation spots.

To date, no side effects have been reported after using bisabolol for cosmetic purposes. This ingredient is considered safe and is not subject to a concentration limit by European cosmetic regulations, even though it is effective at a low dose (≈ 1%). After hypoallergenic HRIPT (Human Repeat Insult Patch Test) tests, it was established that bisabolol was neither irritating, harmful, nor allergenic. Furthermore, tests on guinea pigs have shown that this active ingredient is not photo-allergenic or photo-toxic. Finally, bisabolol is not among the ingredients advised against for pregnant or breastfeeding women.

At Typology, we have chosen to incorporate bisabolol into many of our skincare products due to its soothing and restorative properties.

• The CBD and squalane ointment mask : this mask, specifically designed for sensitive and weakened skin, helps to soothe feelings of discomfort, tightness, and redness. It is used once or twice a week for supple and soothed skin and has an oil-in-gel texture that transforms into milk upon contact with water for easy rinsing.

• The peeling mask : composed of an exfoliating complex made up of four AHAs and one PHA, this concentrated gel mask eliminates dead cells to unclog pores and refine skin texture. After application, the complexion is even and the skin texture is smoothed. This mask also helps to reduce the presence of blackheads over time.

• The glycolic acid exfoliating serum : rich in exfoliating and astringent active ingredients, our glycolic acid serum combats blackheads and dilated pores, for a smooth and even complexion. The bisabolol present in this treatment helps to counterbalance the sometimes irritating effect of glycolic acid.

• The Woman range : to cater to the varying needs of women's skin throughout the menstrual cycle, Typology has developed the Woman range, consisting of four serums corresponding to the four weeks of a cycle. The first contains bisabolol and aims to hydrate and soothe the skin.

• The anti-blemish shower gel : concentrated in exfoliating and purifying active ingredients, our glycolic acid shower gel unclogs pores, reduces blemishes and fights against the appearance of ingrown hairs. Similarly, in the exfoliating serum, bisabolol has been chosen to counteract the irritating effect of glycolic acid.

• PARK D. & al. Whitening effect of alpha-bisabolol in Asian women subjects. International journal of cosmetic science (2010).

• LEE S.-G. & al. Fermentative production and direct extraction of (-)-α-bisabolol in metabolically engineered Escherichia coli. Microbial cell factories (2016).

• OJHA S. & al. Health Benefits, Pharmacological Effects, Molecular Mechanisms, and Therapeutic Potential of α-Bisabolol. Nutrients (2022).