Dull Skin: How to Prevent its Onset?

Dull complexion is a concept that may seem vague and subjective and, indeed, the assessment of skin radiance can vary greatly from one person to another. However, there is a scientific consensus that dull skin is a skin that does not reflect light. The cause: an accumulation of dead cells on its surface. To prevent this phenomenon, it is recommended to exfoliate your skin once or twice a week.

This action aids in the removal of dead cells and impurities present on the skin's surface, thereby enhancing the skin's ability to reflect light, and thus its radiance. It could involve a mechanical exfoliation, which utilises grain-based products, or a chemical exfoliation, which relies on the use of active ingredients that break the bonds between the corneocytes, facilitating the detachment of dead cells.

If a regular exfoliation is beneficial in preventing a dull complexion, it should not be performed more than twice a week, so as not to irritate the skin.

Following the same logic as exfoliation, skin cleansing is an important step to prevent a dull complexion. Indeed, daily exposure to environmental pollutants can cause physiological changes in the skin, such as a disruption of its barrier function or a dulling of its radiance, whether one lives in a big city or not. Pollution, by generating free radicals in skin cells, disrupts metabolism and cell renewal.

Furthermore, during the night, the skin's regeneration process accelerates, including cellular renewal and blood circulation. However, impurities accumulated throughout the day, whether it be dust, pollution particles or makeup, can hinder skin regeneration if they are not removed. Therefore, to revive the skin's radiance, it is essential to cleanse your face each evening.

Advice : Choose a cleanser that is suitable for your skin type and needs. If you have dry skin, the creamy texture of a cleansing milk will clean your skin without damaging its hydrolipidic film. On the other hand, if your skin is oily, opt for a gel, which is more suitable for unclogging pores and combating excessive sebum production.

Preventing a dull complexion also involves stimulating microcirculation. Indeed, when blood circulation is slowed down, as can be the case in winter, the supply of oxygen and nutrients to the skin cells is limited. This can reduce the effectiveness of cellular renewal, and thus lead to an accumulation of dead cells on the skin's surface, which is the starting point for complexion dulling.

It could therefore be relevant to incorporate vasodilating actives into one's skincare routine, such as menthol. According to recent studies involving ten volunteers, the topical application of a 4% menthol gel could stimulate blood circulation. This active ingredient could indeed interact with sensory nerves and stabilise them to induce vasodilation. By intensifying blood circulation, menthol could enhance the supply of oxygen and nutrients to the skin cells, thus promoting their renewal.

Achieving a radiant complexion typically involves good skin hydration. When it's dehydrated, the skin loses its elasticity and presents a rough appearance, sometimes streaked with fine lines, typical of this imbalance. This lack of hydration also impairs the skin's ability to reflect light evenly, which can accentuate its dull and tired appearance.

The prevention of dull skin thus involves the integration of hydrating actives into one's skincare routine, such as hyaluronic acid or polyglutamic acid. These hygroscopic molecules attract and retain water in the epidermis, which strengthens the skin barrier function. The emollients, such as ceramides or vegetable oils and butters, complement this action by relipidating the skin, that is, by strengthening the cohesion between the lipids in the intercorneocyte space, whose main role is to hinder the movement of water through the horny layer and thus limit the evaporation of water.

To prevent a dull complexion, it is crucial to shield your skin from sources of oxidation that generate free radicals in skin cells, namely UV rays, pollution and tobacco. These are the primary factors of oxidative stress, a process that accelerates skin ageing and impairs its natural radiance. Indeed, free radicals can damage skin proteins, cell membranes, and even DNA, particularly that of keratinocytes, which can disrupt their renewal. Two key actions can protect your skin from oxidative stress:

• Using daily a sunscreen : By blocking UV rays before they penetrate the skin, sunscreen helps to prevent oxidative stress, and thus the dulling of the complexion. Moreover, sun care products are now available in a variety of formulations, ranging from classic sunscreen to sun water, including stick forms. This diversity allows everyone to find a care product suitable for their skin type and needs.

• Incorporating antioxidants into your skincare routine : Concurrently, antioxidants play an indispensable role in neutralising already formed free radicals. Ingredients such as vitamin C, vitamin E, or even botanical extracts rich in polyphenols, such as the ginger, help to block oxidative stress and restore balance in the skin cells.

The cellular renewal of the skin, essential for its radiance, reaches its peak activity at night. During sleep, keratinocytes multiply rapidly to replace the dead cells accumulated on the surface of the epidermis. However, a lack of sleep or poor quality sleep disrupts this process, slowing down cellular renewal and promoting the appearance of a dull and tired complexion. Today, sleep duration tends to decrease, a trend largely attributed to changes in lifestyle. According to the barometer of Public Health France, the sleep duration of the French has shortened by one to one and a half hours in fifty years.

To prevent a lack of skin radiance and promote overall body health, it is crucial to reassess lifestyle habits and prioritise sleep. Going to bed at the same time every night, avoiding digital distractions, favouring relaxing activities, and sleeping in a dark room at a moderate temperature can significantly improve sleep quality. In parallel, the application of a night cream enriched with regenerating active ingredients, such as AHA or retinol, helps to stimulate cellular renewal and maintain a radiant complexion.

Often underestimated, stress has a significant impact on the appearance and health of the skin. When the body is stressed, it releases hormones, such as cortisol and adrenaline. However, these can slow down cellular renewal, leading to an accumulation of dead cells on the surface. Furthermore, chronic stress is associated with a reduction in microcirculation which, as previously mentioned, affects the supply of oxygen and nutrients to the skin cells and results in a duller appearance.

Thus, to prevent skin complexion from becoming dull, it is recommended to implement stress management strategies. Of course, this is easier said than done, but managing stress is not only beneficial for skin radiance, but also for overall health, as chronic stress increases the risk of hypertension and cardiovascular disorders. There are numerous options available to reduce stress, such as engaging in physical activity, practising meditation, spending time with loved ones, keeping a journal, etc...

Finally, engaging in regular physical activity could potentially help prevent a dull complexion. Indeed, in addition to its beneficial effects on overall health and its anti-stress potential, exercise could help to stimulate blood circulation, thereby improving the supply of oxygen and nutrients to the skin cells. This is at least what a study involving 115 volunteers suggests. These participants were divided into different groups, based on their physical condition. Various parameters, reflecting the efficiency of their blood circulation, were evaluated.

Researchers found that participants in the "active" group had a systolic wave amplitude, a rheographic index, and a pulse transit time that were 7.9 to 24.5% higher than those in the "non-active" group, indicating a more intense arterial blood flow. Furthermore, the elasticity coefficient was 10.2% lower in the active individuals, indicating less rigid vessels that are better adapted to circulation. These various elements demonstrate improved microcirculation in individuals who engage in physical activity. These results suggest that physical activity, by optimising blood circulation, could enhance the supply of nutrients and oxygen to skin cells, thus helping to prevent the onset of a dull complexion.

• NOSOVA L. & al. Status of blood circulation in the legs of low and highly skilled student-athletes in various sports. Theory.

• ANDERSEN B. & et al. The Circadian Clock in Skin: Implications for Adult Stem Cells, Tissue Regeneration, Cancer, Aging, and Immunity. Journal of Biological Rhythms (2015).

• CRAIGHEAD D. H. & al. Topical menthol enhances skin blood flow. Microvascular Research (2016).

• ROBIC G. & et al. Yellowness in skin complexion: Analysis of self-perception among women in China evaluated against clinical parameters of yellowness. Skin Research and Technology (2024).