Dull and tired complexion: how to avoid it in winter?

It is not uncommon for the skin to suffer from a lack of radiance during winter. Indeed, the drop in temperatures, coupled with wind and indoor heating, can cause stress to the skin, disrupting its natural regeneration cycle. As a result, dead cells accumulate on the surface of the epidermis, forming a barrier that prevents light from reflecting evenly on the skin. The complexion then appears more dull.

Simultaneously, blood circulation tends to slow down in winter, due to the vasoconstriction caused by the cold. This natural mechanism, designed to preserve body heat, limits the supply of oxygen and nutrients to the skin cells. This can lead to a reduction in the production of new skin cells and an accumulation of dead cells on the skin's surface. Moreover, the decrease in microcirculation is often accompanied by a slight stagnation of toxins in the tissues, which can intensify the dull appearance of the complexion. Finally, the cold and dry air, characteristic of winter, tends to dehydrate the skin which, becoming rougher, loses its ability to reflect light.

Several measures can be implemented to avoid dull complexion during winter.

To maintain the radiance of the skin during winter, everything starts with managing the accumulation of dead cells on the skin's surface. To limit this phenomenon, which intensifies in winter, it is important to not overlook the exfoliation process. Whether it's mechanical, chemical, or enzymatic, exfoliation helps to remove corneocytes, the dead cells of the stratum corneum, and stimulate cell renewal. For this, use an exfoliating care product, for example, one based on glycolic acid or lactic acid, once or twice a week. These molecules work by breaking the bonds between the corneocytes, allowing them to be removed without damaging the skin barrier. This removal of dead cells facilitates the reflection of light, a crucial element for a luminous complexion.

Another fundamental pillar to avoid having a dull complexion in winter is: properly hydrating your skin. Indeed, as previously mentioned, during the winter season, the dry air combined with indoor heating accelerates transepidermal water loss, making the skin rougher and impairing its light-reflecting ability. To counter this, it is beneficial to incorporate hydrating actives into your routine, such as hyaluronic acid or polyglutamic acid. These hygroscopic molecules attract and retain water in the epidermis, which strengthens the skin's barrier function. Emollients, such as ceramides or plant oils and butters, complement this action by relipidating the skin, that is, by strengthening the cohesion between the lipids in the intercorneocyte space, whose main role is to hinder the movement of water through the horny layer and thus limit the evaporation of water.

It is also possible to prevent the lack of winter radiance by using antioxidants, such as vitamin C or vitamin E. These molecules, commonly found in cosmetics, are characterised by the presence of an aromatic cycle in their chemical structure. This cycle has a free hydroxyl function, which captures free radicals and stabilises them by providing the missing electron. Therefore, regular application of vitamins C or E on the skin can help to revive the complexion. The astaxanthin, a pigment from the carotenoid family, is also recognised for its high antioxidant capacity, judged to be twice as high as that of beta-carotene in a study. This is explained by its particular chemical structure, composed of a conjugated polyene fraction and two terminal cyclic fractions, offering several free radical trapping sites.

Another tip to avoid a dull complexion in winter: opt for vasodilating actives. Mint could be an interesting ingredient to use in topical application in this context. Indeed, it is a significant source of menthol, an active ingredient that has been described as increasing skin microcirculation. Researchers have recently shown that the topical application of a 4% menthol gel on the arms of ten volunteers increased blood flow through vasodilation. When used locally, menthol creates a cooling sensation and is suspected to interact with sensory nerves, likely stabilising them to induce vasodilation. By enhancing blood circulation, menthol could boost the supply of oxygen and nutrients to skin cells, thus promoting their renewal.

Finally, paying attention to one's sleep helps to prevent the dulling of the winter complexion. Indeed, cellular renewal is accelerated when we sleep, with keratinocytes actively multiplying to replace the dead cells accumulated on the skin's surface. In the case of insufficient or poor-quality sleep, cellular renewal is disrupted, leading to the appearance of a dull and tired complexion. This can be challenging in winter, as the body no longer distinguishes between day and night, leading to a decrease in melatonin secretion, resulting in difficulties in falling asleep. However, certain techniques, such as reducing screen time before bed or engaging in calming activities, like reading or meditation, can promote sleep onset, thus supporting nocturnal cellular renewal and helping to maintain the skin's radiance.