The rose is the oldest flower, rich in symbolism. It is often referred to as the queen of flowers. At present, over 200 species of roses and more than 18,000 cultivars of the plant have been identified. Among the different varieties belonging to the family of Rosaceae, the Damask rose and the musk rose are two species used in various forms in skincare. The Damask rose is present in the form of essential oil and hydrosol, while the musk rose yields a vegetable oil.
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Differences between Damask Rose and Rosehip.
Summary
- Damask Rose and Rosehip, different origins
- Damask rose essential oil and rosehip vegetable oil, two distinct cosmetic ingredients
- Musk rose and Damask rose, two allies for mature skin
- The rosehip vegetable oil at Typology
- In which Typology skincare product can one find the essential oil of Damask rose?
- Sources
Published February 9, 2024,
by
Maylis, Chemical Engineer
—
9 min read
Damask Rose and Rosehip, different origins.
Botanically referred to as "Rosa canina", the musk rose is a species of thorny shrub related to the wild rose. It can be found in the wild in South America, specifically in the Andean valleys of Chile. Its flowers are white and have between 5 to 9 petals.
The Damask rose (Rosa damascena) is, in fact, native to the Middle East (Iran). Today, it primarily flourishes in Bulgaria (the world's leading exporter), Morocco, and the mountainous region of Isparta in Turkey. It has been present in France since the Middle Ages, having been brought back by the knight Robert DE BRIE upon his return from the crusades in the mid-13th century. Unlike the musk rose, the flowers are pink and have a greater number of petals.
Damask rose essential oil and rosehip vegetable oil, two distinct cosmetic ingredients.
These two compounds differ in two main aspects:
The extraction process:
Thevirgin rosehip oil is extracted byfirst cold pressing of the seedsharvested from the fruits of the plant, followed by cellulose paper filtration. It presents itself as an oily liquid of an orange-red colour with a subtle rose scent. Its texture is quite greasy and it is very sensitive to oxidation.
TheDamask rose essential oil is obtained following a double distillation by steam distillation. This process has a low yield: 5 tonnes of petals only produce 1 kg of essential oil. The first distillation is carried out using the petals. These are placed in a still and then traversed by steam, which is subsequently cooled in a condenser and collected in liquid form. The essential oil, less dense than the water used for extraction, floats on the surface. This water is nothing other than the hydrosol. The second distillation is simply the redistillation of the Damask rose hydrosol obtained previously.
The biochemical composition:
Therosehip oil, like the majority of vegetable oils, contains fatty acids. The most significant in proportion are linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid. Furthermore, it also contains carotenoids (transretinoic acid), vitamins (E and K), as well as squalene.
TheDamask rose essential oil contains aromatic molecules. It is predominantly composed of monoterpenic alcohols (citronellol, nerol, geraniol, linalool). These molecules make up about 70% of the essential oil, with the majority being citronellol, which can be present up to 50%.
Musk rose and Damask rose, two allies for mature skin.
On one hand, therosehip vegetable oil is recognised for its antioxidant action. Rich in vitamin E, it protects the skin from free radicals. As a reminder, these are reactive oxygen species naturally produced by the body. However, when cells are faced with a stress, they produce them in an excessive manner. The sources of stress are numerous, the main ones being exposure to UVA, pollution, smoking, a diet too rich in fats and/or sugars. Free radicals are particularly unstable molecules due to their single electron. They tend to react with other molecules to form a pair of electrons, and thus cause damage to cells, DNA and proteins in the body. Ageing is thus accelerated and wrinkles appear on the skin surface. The rosehip oil is therefore a valuable ally in preventing premature skin ageing. Moreover, the presence of trans-retinoic acid in rosehip oil acts on the overproduction of melanin and diminishes the appearance of pigmentation spots on the skin surface that appear with age.
On the other hand, theDamask rose essential oil is regenerative and firming. The monoterpenic alcohols it contains (citronellol, nerol and geraniol) tighten the tissues, thus limiting the skin sagging that appears over the years. Moreover, researchers have demonstrated its ability to stimulate the expression of the collagen-I gene. In other words, this essential oil is a true tissue and cellular regenerator.
The rosehip vegetable oil at Typology.
Ourrosehip vegetable oilis 100% virgin and certified organic. It has been cold-pressed from rosehip seeds grown and harvested in Chile. It also forms part of ourradiance facial scrub. This is a melting gel with micro-grains of apricot kernels, which unclogs pores and promotes cellular renewal, for smooth skin, an even and luminous complexion.
In which Typology skincare product can one find the essential oil of Damask rose?
Ourfirming tonercontains Damask rose extract (a blend of essential oil and hydrosol) combined with0.1% of retinol, the ultimate skin-tightening active ingredient. This lotion, with a pH level as acidic as the skin, rebalances the skin's pH after each cleanse. It also helps to remove the lime scale residues present in the water used for cleansing. Rich in firming active ingredients, it reduces the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, and combats skin sagging.
To apply it, soak a cotton pad with the firming lotion and then sweep it over your entire face, which should be previously cleansed, avoiding the eye contour, the evening only.
Note :We advise against its use for sensitive and reactive skin types, as well as for pregnant and/or breastfeeding women.
Sources:
WINTHER K. & al. The effectiveness of a standardized rose hip powder, containing seeds and shells of Rosa canina, on cell longevity, skin wrinkles, moisture, and elasticity. Clinical Interventions in Aging (2015).
VALERON-ALMAZAN P. & al. Evolution of post-surgical scars treated with pure rosehip seed oil. Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications (2015).
DHANABAL S. P. & al. Design And development of polyherbal based cream formulation with anti-skin ageing benefits. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research (2017).
FAUCON M. Traité d'aromathérapie scientifique et médicale - Les huiles essentielles - Fondements et aides à la prescription (2017).
AHMED Y. & al. Rosa damascene Mill. (Rose): A versatile herb in cosmetology. Tang Humanitas Medecine (2019).
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