The chemical composition of Damask rose essential oil.

The Damask rose is an ancient and valuable rose, regarded since antiquity as the queen of flowers. Today, it primarily flourishes in Bulgaria (the world's leading exporter), Morocco, and the mountains of the Isparta region in Turkey.It has been present in France since the Middle Ages and is believed to have been used during this period for the creation of ointments and skin remedies.

TheDamask rose essential oil is obtained following a double distillation by steam entrainment carried out from the petals of the flowers. It takes about five tonnes of petals, or 3 to 4 million flowers, to obtain on average 1 kg of Damask rose essential oil. This low yield explains the rarity and high price of this essential oil. In skincare, it is incorporated under the INCI name "Rosa Damascena Flower Oil".

Typically, it is added to formulas as afragrance agent and/or to mask the smell of another compound. However, it also has regenerative properties ; it's one of the best essential oils for combating wrinkles.

This essential oil primarily contains monoterpenic alcohols (citronellol, nerol, geraniol, linalool). These molecules make up about 70% of the essential oil, with citronellol being the majority, which can be present up to 50%. Not only are these compounds known to provide a pleasant rose scent to treatments, but they also act as tissue and cellular regenerators. They tighten the tissues and thus limit the sagging of the skin that appears over the years. In addition, linalool and geranyl acetate, an ester present at about 5%, give this essential oil anti-inflammatory virtues and soothing properties. Indeed, these natural compounds limit the production of pro-inflammatory molecules on skin cells, thus reducing the dilation of blood vessels. Like many aromatic plants, Damask rose essential oil has antioxidant properties due to the presence of phenolic compounds. Finally, the high content of phenylethyl alcohol gives an antibacterial effect to the Damask rose essential oil, unlike the Damask rose hydrosol which has no anti-microbial activity.

Note : This biochemical composition is potent and can cause skin allergies. TheDamask rose essential oil should never be applied undiluted to the skin. It should be diluted to a maximum of 5% in a vegetable oil. Furthermore, itis always advisable to perform askin tolerance test in the crook of the elbow 48 hours before using a treatment with Damask rose essential oil.

Thisfirming lotion with 0.1% of retinol and Damask rose extract has a skin-like acidic pH. It rebalances the skin's pH after each cleansing. It also helps to remove the lime residues present in the water during cleansing. Rich in firming active ingredients, it reduces the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines and fights against skin sagging. This lotion is suitable for all skin types. It is particularly suitable for mature skin.

Caution! Due to the presence of retinol, we advise against its use for individuals with sensitive and reactive skin, as well as pregnant and/or breastfeeding women.

• FAUCON M. Traité d'aromathérapie scientifique et médicale - Les huiles essentielles - Fondements et aides à la prescription (2017).