Routine de soins peau déshydratée.

Dehydrated skin: which products should you use in your skincare routine?

Unlike dry skin, which lacks lipids, dehydrated skin lacks water. It feels tight, shows accentuated lines and reveals dehydration fine lines. What skincare routine suits dehydrated skin? Here are our guidelines if you recognise this skin profile.

Dehydrated skin: what are the causes?

A dehydrated skin is due to a failure of the hydrolipidic barrier that can no longer retain water. This frequent but temporary and reversible phenomenon leads to a loss of radiance and comfort. Tightness is common after cleansing or showering. All skin types can experience episodes of dehydration, even those with oily skin. Skin dehydration often relates to environmental factors (cold, wind, pollution, sun), stress, fatigue, lifestyle habits (tobacco, alcohol, harsh skincare products, certain medications). Intrinsic ageing also promotes dehydration due to the decline inhyaluronic acid it induces over the years.

If your skin is dehydrated, use formulas rich in humectant ingredients (glycerine, polyglutamic acid, aloe vera...) to retain water in the skin’s layers.

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Step 1: Gentle skin cleansing.

If skin cleansing is an essential step in a skincare routine, it can also be critical for dehydrated skin as its hydrolipidic film is altered, increasing trans-epidermal water loss. Using a harsh cleanser or one containing sulphated surfactants, which strip the skin, can further weaken the hydrolipidic film of the skin and worsen tightness.

When skin is dehydrated, choose a gentle, soap-free cleanser. This treatment, known as syndet, is formulated at a physiological pH of around 5.5 and cleanses skin without disrupting its balance. Cleansers enriched with relipidating agents, such as vegetable oils, or containing hydrating actives, such as hyaluronic acid or vitamin B12, are also recommended. If skin feels uncomfortable, a cleansing milk or cleansing oil can replace your regular cleansing gel. Rinse with lukewarm water, never hot, and avoid prolonged shower exposure. This helps preserve the weakened hydrolipidic film. To dry your face, pat with a clean towel without rubbing to avoid additional disruption of the skin barrier.

You do not always need a cleansing product in the morning. A hydrosol is sufficient for normal to dry skin.

Step 2: Use targeted hydrating treatments.

Sealing water on the surface is not enough when skin is dehydrated. Moisture must be delivered to deeper layers before sealing. Water-based hydrating treatments, such as toning lotions or serums, restore hydration in the upper layers of the epidermis. They use ingredients with high hygroscopic capacity.

Toning lotions, used after cleansing, not only rebalance the skin’s pH and prepare it for subsequent treatments but, depending on their composition, also have a hydrating effect. Indeed, those containing humectants are able to increase the water content of the stratum corneum. Next come serums, treatments more concentrated in active ingredients. Those rich in hyaluronic acid or polyglutamic acid, respectively able to hold up to 1,000 and 5,000 times their weight in water, are suitable for dehydrated skin.

Toners and moisturising serums should be applied morning and evening, after cleansing the skin.

Step 3: Seal in hydration with a cream.

Once the skin has absorbed hydration from lotions and serums, it needs sealing with an emollient treatment, namely a hydrating cream or balm. This step not only retains water in the epidermis by forming a film on its surface, but also to reinforce the lipid organisation of the stratum corneum, and thus the skin’s barrier function, often weakened in dehydrated skin.

The choice of moisturising cream depends on skin type: light emulsions suit combination-to-oily skin, whereas balms and rich creams suit dry-to-very-dry skin or winter conditions. Some formulas also combine lipids with humectant agents, helping retain water in the epidermis and slow its evaporation.

Essential morning and evening, the cream acts as a protective coat that traps water in the skin and maximises the efficacy of prior applications.

Step 4: Protect skin from UV radiation.

Sometimes overlooked, sunlight contributes to skin dehydration. By generating free radicals within epidermal cells, UV rays damage cellular structures, notably the lipids that ensure the cohesion of the skin barrier. Even in low sunlight, under cloudy skies or in winter, repeated UV exposure alters the lipid organisation of the stratum corneum, weakening the barrier function and increasing skin dehydration.

To prevent this vicious cycle, we recommend daily use of a sunscreen applied as the final step of your morning routine, before foundation if you use any. It preserves the skin’s water balance and protects against photoaging, that is, accelerated skin ageing caused by sun exposure. Various sunscreen formats exist (cream, stick, lightweight fluid, gel), so every skin type can find a suitable option.

For prolonged sun exposure, reapply your sunscreen every two hours.

Step 5: Refresh skin throughout the day.

When skin lacks water, discomfort can arise at any time of day: tightness in mid-afternoon or tingling after exposure to cold air. In such moments, a portable hydrating step can help. This is when hydrating mists and hydration sticks come in. These products are easy to apply and carry are rich in humectant ingredients and allow rapid skin rehydration and moisture retention. Hydration sticks also contain ceramides and butters. These ingredients recreate a protective film on the skin’s surface, limiting water loss in the hours that follow.

Alongside a well-structured skincare routine, portable products such as mists and hydrating sticks help dehydrated skin remain comfortable throughout the day.

Sources

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