What are the different types of under-eye dark circles?

Did you know? In French, the word “cerne” is masculine, even if many French people think otherwise.

The vascular dark circles are marked by purple to bluish pigmentation of varying intensity on the lower eyelid. This phenomenon reflects a failure of blood and lymph microcirculation in the fragile peri-orbital area. Indeed, the peri-orbital skin is extremely thin – often under 0.5 mm – and low in adipose tissue, making underlying vessels easily visible. When blood flow slows or is disrupted, pigments, mainly bilirubin and haemoglobin derivatives such as biliverdin, accumulate beneath the eyes. Poor drainage gives vascular dark circles their characteristic blue-violet hue. These pigment deposits result from incomplete degradation of red blood cells that escape fragile microvessels, a process sometimes worsened by innate capillary fragility. At the same time, insufficient lymphatic drainage prevents effective elimination of these pigments, exacerbating their buildup in the subcutaneous tissues

This type of dark circles is particularly common in individuals with fair or thin skin, as this skin permits vessel visibility. Heredity also plays a role in bluish dark circles: some individuals are born with a pronounced vascular network or translucent skin around the eyes. Ageing accentuates vascular dark circles since skin thins and vascular tone decreases, which worsens blood stasis and increases vessel visibility. In some people, hormonal fluctuations such as those linked to the menstrual cycle or pregnancy may promote periorbital venous congestion, temporarily intensifying bluish dark circles.

In addition to these intrinsic factors, several lifestyle-related factors contribute to exacerbating dark circles, such as sleep deprivation, which disrupts venous return and promotes capillary dilation; smoking, which impairs microcirculation and increases oxidative stress; alcohol consumption, which causes transient vasodilation; and repeated screen exposure, which promotes venous congestion.

Bluish under-eye circles can be reduced by acting on both lifestyle factors (restorative sleep, reducing stimulants...), through certain cosmetic actives (caffeine, Helichrysum italicum essential oil...) and, if necessary, by using aesthetic medicine techniques (laser, carboxytherapy, radiofrequency...).

Pigmentary dark circles manifest as a brown to black colour around the eye contour, affecting the lower lid; it can extend to the upper lid and adjacent areas. This colour results from excessive melanin deposition, the natural pigment responsible for skin colour. In most cases, this hyperpigmentation has a genetic origin. It affects darker phototypes (types IV to VI on the Fitzpatrick scale), characterised by higher melanocyte activity. In these individuals, melanocytes, the cells that produce melanin, are more active and can produce excess melanin without external triggers. This process can be enhanced by local hyperactivity of enzymes involved in melanin synthesis, in particular tyrosinase. When overstimulated, this enzyme promotes oxidation of tyrosine to dopaquinone and then to melanin, resulting in excess pigmentation

In addition to this genetic component, other factors may contribute to the appearance of brown under-eye circles, such as repeated rubbing of the peri-orbital area caused by the application and removal of eye products, which can promote a local inflammatory response. Sun exposure, which drives melanin synthesis in the skin, can also intensify hyperpigmentation around the eyes, since this thin area readily allows UV rays to penetrate and is missed when applying sunscreen. Certain hormonal disturbances, such as those occurring during pregnancy or following contraceptive use, may also induce peri-orbital melasma, intensifying pigmentation in this region. Finally, natural skin ageing tends to accentuate pigment irregularities and brown under-eye circles.

The pigmented under-eye circles are mostly genetic in origin. They are difficult to treat but some active ingredients and aesthetic medicine techniques can reduce their visibility.

The structural under-eye hollows are characterised by a pronounced shadow under the eyes, which gives the gaze a tired and aged appearance. Unlike vascular or pigmented under-eye concerns, the dark tone here is an optical effect caused by the loss or displacement of volumes beneath the eye. Over time, hollow under-eye areas tend to deepen as the facial fat compartments under the eyes diminish, reducing support for the skin and accentuating the orbital bone depression. At the same time, the skin thins and masks the underlying bone contours less effectively. This fat loss partly results from the resorption of the suborbital fat pads, which provide anatomical support. With age, volume redistribution also affects neighbouring areas such as the cheeks, intensifying the transition between the lower eyelid and cheek—known as the tear trough—and creating a sharper edge that deepens the under-eye shadow.

Other factors can precipitate the appearance of hollow under-eye circles, including rapid or significant weight loss, which leads to a atrophy of the facial fat compartments and increases the prominence of bony contours. Regular smoking also contributes by promoting free radical production, which degrades dermal structural proteins such as collagen and elastin. This alteration of the dermal matrix contributes to loss of density and volume and deepens the under-eye circles. Genetic factors also play a role: some individuals are born with more pronounced orbital anatomy, more prominent bone structure or a naturally hollow lower eyelid. In the case of structural under-eye circles, the shadow beneath the eyes varies with lighting and is most visible when light comes from above. This can help identify this specific type of circle.

The structural dark circles are the most difficult to treat. No cosmetic active ingredient can eliminate this type of dark circles. Only aesthetic medicine can address them.

Distinguishing under-eye circle types can be challenging. Recognising them helps you choose an appropriate solution. The first consideration is the colour of dark circles. If your circles appear blue to violet, they are likely vascular. This type is the simplest to identify. If you remain uncertain, apply a cold compress to the eye area for a few minutes. If the circles fade, they are likely vascular.

It is harder to distinguish pigmented dark circles from hollow shadows because they share a similar colour. The former tend towards yellow-brown; the latter appear darker and resemble a shadow. To differentiate them, you can use a lamp. Hollow shadows are emphasised by overhead light but reduced by frontal illumination. The appearance of pigmented dark circles does not change with lighting.

If you cannot identify your under-eye circle type, it may indicate mixed under-eye circles combining characteristics of different types.

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• PARK S. R. & al. Classification by causes of dark circles and appropriate evaluation method of dark circles. Skin Research and Technology (2015).

• O'MAHONY M. & al. Identification of three key factors contributing to the aetiology of dark circles by clinical and instrumental assessments of the infraorbital region. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (2019).

• LOWE N. & al. Periorbital discolouration diagnosis and treatment: evidence-based review. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy (2020).