How can pigmented under-eye dark circles be reduced?

An overview of brown under-eye circles.

The pigmentary dark circles, or brown ones, are a specific type of dark circles predominantly found in individuals with darker skin tones. They are caused by a natural overproduction of melanin in the eye area. The resulting hyperpigmentation often has a genetic origin, although it can be exacerbated by prolonged sun exposure, triggering the process of melanogenesis. While brown dark circles are difficult to treat, certain methods can nonetheless help to brighten the eye contour.

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How can pigmented dark circles be effectively eliminated?

Although this is challenging, several techniques can be used to treat brown under-eye circles.

The use of depigmenting cosmetic active ingredients.

Certain active ingredients can help counteract the overproduction of melanin associated with brown under-eye circles and thus diminish their appearance. This is especially true of the vitamin C and resorcinol derivatives. Best known for its antioxidant properties, vitamin C is also capable of inhibiting tyrosinase activity, the enzyme responsible for converting tyrosine into melanin. This action leads to a reduction in melanin content within the epidermis and could help brighten the periorbital area, although clinical studies would be needed to confirm this.

With regard to resorcinol, and more specifically 4-hexylresorcinol (4-HR), its anti-melanogenic effect has been confirmed in a recent double-blind clinical trial in which volunteers received either a 3% niacinamide formulation or a 3% niacinamide formulation combined with 0.4% 4-HR. After 12 weeks of applying one or the other, those using the 4-HR-containing product exhibited a significantly greater improvement in pigmentation and evenness of skin tone. It may be hypothesised that this effect could also be observed around the eye-contour area.

Évaluation spectrophotométrique de l'hyperpigmentation des volontaires après application d'un soin à base de niacinamide couplé ou non à du résorcinol. — Spectrophotometric evaluation of volunteers’ hyperpigmentation following application of a niacinamide-based treatment, with or without resorcinol.
Source: DAMODARAN A. & al. Superior even skin tone and anti-ageing benefit of a combination of 4-hexylresorcinol and niacinamide. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2022).

Peeling.

Exfoliating agents, such as glycolic acid or lactic acid, can also help to reduce brown under-eye circles. Indeed, by eroding the stratum corneum, they contribute to eliminating excess melanin and reducing hyperpigmentation. A study involving 15 participants specifically demonstrated the beneficial effects of a weekly application of a gel containing 3.75% trichloroacetic acid and 15% lactic acid on periorbital hyperpigmentation. After four weeks, seven patients showed excellent improvement, seven others achieved good results, and an average decrease in the visibility of dark circles was recorded for the final participant.

The area around the eye contour is extremely delicate, so it is inadvisable to apply a chemical peel that has not been specifically formulated for this purpose. The results observed in the study were achieved under strict dermatological supervision.

The laser.

Useful for vascular dark circles, the laser can also address pigmented dark circles. However, for brown circles, a different laser is employed: the fractional laser. It emits at a specific wavelength, usually between 1064 and 1550 nm, which allows it to target melanin. When the laser light penetrates the skin, it is absorbed by melanocytes. These melanin-containing cells are then fragmented and destroyed, thus reducing brown pigmentation around the eyes. Several studies have shown that this technique can attenuate periorbital hyperpigmentation.

A study evaluated the efficacy of the 755 nm alexandrite laser on infraorbital hyperpigmentation in 10 adults. All participants had an initial severity grade of 3 on a standardised scale from 1 to 4. They received three laser treatment sessions, each spaced three weeks apart. The results demonstrated a significant reduction in pigmentation by day 42 (mean grade lowered to 2). However, the treatment response varied among participants, with some showing only very partial improvement.

Efficacité du laser alexandrite 755 nm sur l'hyperpigmentation infra-orbitaire. — Efficacy of the 755 nm alexandrite laser on infraorbital hyperpigmentation.
Source: GOLDMAN M. & al. Prospective studies of the efficacy and safety of the picosecond 755, 1,064, and 532 nm lasers for the treatment of infraorbital dark circles. Lasers in Surgery and Medicine (2017).

Good to know : You can also use make-up to conceal brown under-eye circles. For this, we recommend our tinted concealer, which provides both high coverage and skincare benefits thanks to its richness in caffeine, cornflower hydrosol and niacinamide.

Note : In-clinic chemical peels and laser treatments are aesthetic medicine techniques; it is therefore essential to be well informed before using them and to seek the advice of a healthcare professional to verify their relevance and the absence of contraindications.