From hair detangling treatments to eye contour care, through to foundations, many formulas mention Isoamyl Laurate in their list of ingredients. But what is it? What is its role in cosmetics? We introduce it to you in this article.
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What is "Isoamyl Laurate" and what is its purpose?
Summary
Published November 5, 2021,
updated on November 4, 2024,
by
Stéphanie, PhD, Doctorate in Life and Health Sciences
—
5 min read
"Isoamyl Laurate": What is its utility in cosmetic care?
Of an oily and transparent consistency, isoamyl laurate (INCI: Isoamyl Laurate) is a fatty acid ester, a product of the reaction between isoamyl alcohol and lauric acid, with a chemical structure consisting of a carboxyl group (-COOH) and a long saturated carbon chain, responsible for its hydrophobic character. Often presented as a natural substitute for the cyclomethicone (silicone), it is appreciated for its sensory properties: light but nourishing, non-volatile, silky, non-greasy and non-sticky. It thus improves the texture of cosmetic care, in addition to promoting their spread.
Chemical structure of isoamyl laurate.
Source: PubChem.
With a light texture and smooth touch, this ingredient is used in many skin and hair care products as a emollient. As it is oily in nature and contains lauric acid, isoamyl laurate helps to soften and smooth the skin, and to moisturise the horny layer. It is also used as a protective agent. Indeed, it will cover the surface of the skin or hair with a protective layer in order to protect and prevent damage caused by external aggressions, but also to reduce water loss.
| Identification | Chemical and Physical Characteristics |
|---|---|
| Chemical Formula | C17H34O2 |
| Synonym | 3-methylbutyl dodecanoate, dodecanoic acid, 3-methylbutyl ester, isoamyl dodecanoate, isopentyl laurate, lauric acid, isopentyl ester, N-isoamyl dodecanoate, isopentyl dodecanoate |
| Appearance | Colourless to light yellow oily liquid |
| Method of Obtaining | Esterification |
| Molar Mass | 270.5 g/mol |
| Solubility | Soluble in fats and alcohol; Insoluble in water. |
Isoamyl laureate is also used in perfumes, where it acts as a fixative. It slows down the evaporation rate of the perfume's volatile components, thereby prolonging its olfactory notes.
Furthermore, isoamyl laurate can also be used in the formulation of various hair care products such as shampoos, conditioners and styling products, as a hair conditioner. It is particularly used to facilitate detangling and help hair remain smooth, while giving it shine. It also has the ability to dissolve UV filters (solvent), particularly liposoluble UV filters, in sun care products or to evenly disperse pigments in tinted skincare products.
The isoamyl laurate is also appreciated in terms of solubility and compatibility with many other ingredients. Indeed, it exhibits good miscibility with other cosmetic actives.
How is isoamyl laurate produced?
Whether synthetic or natural, isoamyl laurate is produced by reacting isoamyl alcohol with lauric acid via the traditional method of esterification. Naturally, it is synthesised from plant sources, notably coconut, palm and sugar beet, where lauric acid, a natural fatty acid, is present in large quantities. As a result, isoamyl laurate is obtained by reacting lauric acid from natural sources and isoamyl alcohol produced by the fermentation of ethanol.
The isoamyl laurate used in our tinted serum is of natural origin, derived from cane sugar and palm oil.
Potential dangers of cosmetic use of isoamyl laurate?
To date, no study has demonstrated that isoamyl laurate poses a particular health risk to consumers. Indeed, it has not been associated with adverse effects, either short or long term, and is rather considered as safe and non-irritating. Consequently, it is therefore unlikely that isoamyl laurate poses a risk to pregnant and breastfeeding women, as well as infants when it is used for normal cosmetic use.
Furthermore, according to the 2015 assessment by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) expert group on the safety of alkyl esters, isoamyl laurate was deemed safe in current cosmetic usage and concentration practices (up to 2%). Although it is safe, it is still advisable to take precautions and perform a skin test on a small area of the body (behind the ear, inner wrist, elbow crease) before more extensive use to check for any potential risks of allergy or irritation.
The key points to remember about Isoamyl Laurate.
Isoamyl Laurate is an organic compound used in cosmetic formulas as an emollient, protective agent, hair conditioner (anti-static), solvent or fixative .
It can be obtained synthetically or naturally.
Isoamyl laureate is present in skincare products, haircare products and tinted products.
It is presented as a safe and non-irritating ingredient for topical use.
Sources
Supplier's data sheet.
ANDERSEN F. A. & others. Safety evaluation of alkyl esters in cosmetic applications. International Journal of Toxicology (2015).
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