What is a lip peeling composed of?

Lip peeling is a technique that exfoliates this delicate area of the face. It keeps the lips supple, soft, hydrated, and less prone to chapping. Lip peeling also helps to prevent ageing in this area and stimulate blood circulation.

Lips are indeed particularly sensitive to external aggressions, such as wind, cold, or temperature fluctuations, due to their thinness: the skin in this area is approximately 5 times thinner than on the rest of the body. It is therefore appropriate to take care of them. Moreover, they are devoid of sebaceous glands, and therefore of sebum, which contributes to maintaining skin hydration and protection. Furthermore, over time, lips become depleted in collagen, a molecule that constitutes the dermis and contributes to its structure. Consequently, lips lose their firmness and may show signs of skin sagging.

There are several types of lip peeling. The most common are the superficial peelings, which one can perform alone at home with cosmetic treatments typically based on fruit acid. It is also possible to visit a dermatologist to perform a medium or deep peeling. This aesthetic medical technique is often carried out using phenol, a molecule with a powerful lifting effect that helps to reduce perioral wrinkles.

Peelings are typically formulas whose base is an emulsion or an aqueous gel. They contain various categories of ingredients.

• A solvent.

water, which is most commonly listed first on the INCI list. It serves to dissolve the other compounds included in the formula.

• Exfoliating active ingredients.

These ingredients allow the removal of unwanted dead cells and flakes present on the surface of the lips. The skin of the lips is then clearer and smoother. There are different types of exfoliants. The exfoliants mechanical ones are equipped with grains and allow, after rubbing, to release embedded impurities. However, it is advisable not to choose a treatment containing too large grains, as these are abrasive and can harm the delicate skin of the lips. The most commonly used are grains based on fruit kernels, like apricot. The chemical exfoliants, such as fruit acids, are capable of breaking the bonds between cells, which allows the removal of the layer of dead cells on the surface of the lips. They do not require rubbing, unlike mechanical exfoliants.

• Humectant active ingredients.

The humectant nature of an ingredient is based on its ability to retain water molecules due to its hygroscopic power. This type of active ingredient helps to limit water loss from the lips and provides additional hydration to the peeling. Some commonly used humectants are hyaluronic acid, arginine, and glycerine.

• Nourishing active ingredients.

In certain peelings, we find nourishing active ingredients, such as coconut butter, capable of strengthening the epidermal barrier. Indeed, these ingredients are often rich in lipids, compounds that make up the stratum corneum. They integrate into it through biomimicry and contribute to its maintenance.

• Tightening active ingredients.

Some lip peels also contain compounds with a tightening effect, such as Damask rose. Applied to the mouth contour, they help to reduce and prevent the peri-oral wrinkles. These ingredients also limit the appearance of small lines that form on the lips over time.

• Emulsion stabilisers.

In order to provide consistency and stability to the formula of lip peels, emulsion stabilisers such as sclerotium or xanthan gum are added.

• Preservatives.

To prevent the growth and colonisation of bacteria, antimicrobial agents are frequently added to the formulas of peels. These also include antioxidants, such as vitamin E, which help to extend the shelf life of the product and prevent it from degrading when exposed to air.