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Profile: Mandelic Acid

Commonly known as: Mandelic acid, amygdalic acid, phenylglycolic acid, phenylglycolic acid, 2-phenyl-2-hydroxyacetic acid, benzene acetic acid.

I.N.C.I. list name: Mandelic Acid.

Extraction process: Microbial fermentation of glucose using genetically modified Escherichia coli and Saccharomyces cerevisiae expressing hydroxymandelate synthase.

Source: Biotechnology.

Botanical name: /

Family: /

Part of the plant extracted: /

Provenance, origin: Switzerland.

Chemical characteristics: Alpha-Hydroxy Acid (AHA); Molecular mass: 152.14 g/mol; Recommended pH: 3.0 - 4.0; Soluble in water and polar organic solvents.

Characteristics: Emulsion, true aqueous solution.

Dosage required in cosmetic products: Recommended dosage: Up to 40% for resurfacing peel and ~10% for daily application.

Function: Anti-microbial.

Properties: Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, astringent, exfoliating (keratolytic), keratoplastic.

Benefits: All skin types, particularly dull skin, acne-prone skin, skin with hyperpigmentation, and combination to oily skin; All scalp types, especially scalps with dandruff.

Details

Properties

Anti-inflammatory: Reducing inflammatory reactions, thus decreasing redness.
Antioxidant: Minimising oxidative stress caused by free radicals, by providing them with an electron and thus reducing their level within the cells.
Anti-microbial: The ability to inhibit the growth of pathogenic microorganisms;
Astringent: Enhancing the appearance of skin pores by making them less visible.
Exfoliant, keratoplastic: Enhances the natural process of dead cell removal (desquamation), thereby accelerating the skin's cellular renewal.

Usage

Facial Care (night creams, face masks, lotions, serums, lotions, cleansers, peels);
Haircare (shampoos);
Hygiene (deodorants, body cleansers);
Makeups (foundations).

Exfoliating

Exfoliating Night Cream

with 6% AHA and lavender extract — £32.50

Peeling

Resurfacing Mask

with 10% AHA and 10% PHA — £32.50

Method of Preservation

Store in a dry and cool place, shielded from direct sunlight, high temperatures, and humidity.

Contraindications, Usage Precautions

Mandelic acid is generally well tolerated by all skin types and is considered gentle, even for sensitive skin. Instances of adverse effects such as redness, swelling, itching or pimple formation are rare. Moreover, mandelic acid is photosensitising. Avoid applying it around the eye and lip contours.

Find out more

Mandelic acid was discovered in 1831 by the German pharmacist Ferdinand Ludwig WINCKLER by heating amygdalin, an extract of bitter almond, with diluted hydrochloric acid. Its name, in fact, originates from the German word "Mandel", which means "almond". Derivatives of mandelic acid are formed by the metabolism of adrenaline and noradrenaline through the action of monoamine oxidase and catechol-O-methyltransferase.