What is meant by a VE(.) skin typology?

Skin ageing: VISIBLE

Oxidation factors: EXPOSED

Sebum production: BALANCED (.)

The letter ‘V’ indicates that the signs of skin ageing are clear, established and perceptible even when the face is at rest. Initial fine lines, often located at the corner of the eyes or around the lips, gradually deepen into fully formed structural wrinkles. New expression lines also appear in areas engaged by facial movements, such as the area between the eyebrows (frown lines), as well as nasolabial folds and horizontal lines on the forehead. Simultaneously, the uniformity of the complexion alters, and the sun spots begin to reflect an alteration in skin homogeneity.

From the thirties, one also observes a slowdown of keratinocyte turnover, associated with a decrease in adhesion between corneocytes. This change weakens the barrier function of the skin and leaves the epidermis more exposed to external aggressions, particularly to UV rays, whose impact on cells becomes more pronounced. The melanogenesis is also altered: the number of melanocytes decreases by about 8 to 10% per decade, and they exhibit a more irregular morphology. This change disrupts the distribution of melanin and leads to the appearance of spots on the skin. In the dermis, fibroblasts gradually lose their function: their metabolic activity slows down, leading to a reduction in the production of collagen, of elastin and of hyaluronic acid. The extracellular matrix becomes depleted and disorganised, resulting in a loss of firmness, suppleness and the lasting appearance of wrinkles.

The letter “E” indicates that the skin is regularly subjected to the impact of factors that stimulate the production of free radicals : UV rays, atmospheric pollution, smoking, chronic stress... These cumulative exposures exert a constant pressure on skin cells, which must continually mobilise their defence systems to neutralise these reactive molecules. When the production of free radicals exceeds the skin’s natural antioxidant capacity, an oxidative stress sets in, progressively altering the skin’s essential components.

Oxidative stress does not act uniformly: in the epidermis, it disrupts the integrity of cell membranes and compromises barrier function, rendering the skin more vulnerable to external stressors; in the dermis, it targets collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, leading to accelerated degradation of the extracellular matrix. From a pigmentation standpoint, oxidation can also affect melanogenesis and promote the appearance of brown spots, particularly noticeable in VE skin types.

In the long term, the oxidative stress endured by "E" skin intensifies pre-existing signs of ageing.

The "." indicates a balance in sebum synthesis. Naturally produced by the sebaceous glands, sebum is an oily substance that helps the skin protect itself against external aggressions and prevent dehydration by forming part of the hydrolipidic film. Comfortable and soft to the touch, this skin type has a matte appearance, with neither shine nor a "crocodile skin" effect, and its texture is smooth and even, with pores tightened. "." skin types are naturally well hydrated and protected, and the imperfections are rare. However, despite this skin balance, these skin types also require specific care to maintain their comfort.

Even with balanced sebum production, if the skin is not adequately protected, especially against the sun, the VE(.) profile can experience accelerated skin ageing.

A VE skin exhibits three characteristics: visible signs of ageing, regular exposure to oxidative agents and balanced sebum production. The objective of the skincare routine is therefore to support barrier function, strengthen resistance to oxidative stress and assist repair mechanisms to limit the progression of skin ageing.

In the morning, favour a routine focused on protection and prevention. A gentle cleanse using a toning lotion is sufficient to remove sweat and sebum produced overnight. Applying antioxidant actives, such as niacinamide, vitamin C or ferulic acid, then helps to neutralise free radicals and protect the skin from environmental aggressors encountered throughout the day. Finally, you only need to apply a moisturising cream to maintain the skin's barrier function and a sun protection, essential for limiting the deepening of wrinkles, preventing pigmentation spots and reducing UV-induced oxidative stress.

In the evening, the routine is primarily designed to stimulate cellular renewal. A meticulous make-up removal, followed by a gentle cleanser, removes impurities and pollution particles without compromising the skin barrier. Active ingredients that promote epidermal renewal, such as retinoids and exfoliating acids (AHAs, PHAs...), contribute to smoothing the skin, reducing established wrinkles and evening out the complexion. They can be complemented by treatments enriched with reparative agents, such as ceramides, in order to optimise the stratum corneum’s capacity to retain water. A night cream that is slightly more nourishing can then be applied, while respecting the sebum balance specific to “(.)” skin types.