Peeling involves applying an acid-rich treatment to the skin to remove the horny layer and stimulate fibroblasts. It promotes cell renewal and thus combats various imperfections (spots, enlarged pores, fine lines, blackheads...). A peeling mask can restore firm and radiant skin. However, this treatment sometimes has contraindications and certain compounds should be avoided. Let's focus.
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What are the dangers of the peeling mask?
Summary
- Why should you use a peel-off mask?
- Excessive frequent use
- An improper composition
- Peeling mask: what precautions should be taken?
- What is the potential alternative to consider?
Published July 22, 2022,
updated on February 15, 2024,
by
Maylis, Chemical Engineer
—
6 min read
Why should you use a peel-off mask?
The skin renews itself approximately every 28 days. Biologically, keratinocytes originating from the deep layer of the epidermis known as the basal layer migrate to the superficial layers of the epidermis, becoming laden with keratin. Once they reach the skin's surface, they have lost their nuclei and are referred to as corneocytes. They then form the horny layer which protects our epidermis from external aggressions. Eventually, these dead cells detach (a process referred to as desquamation) and new corneocytes take their place.
Approximately 10 g of dead skin per day is naturally shed by an adult and immediately renewed!
However, this desquamation process can be disrupted by various factors (pollution, stress, hormonal fluctuations...). The corneocytes accumulate on the skin's surface, clogging the pores and dulling the complexion.
This is where the role of peeling comes into play. It prepares the epidermis for treatment, deeply unclogs the pores, and stimulates blood circulation.
In summary, performed once or twice a week, peeling improves the skin's texture and overall appearance, provided the following two pitfalls are avoided.
Excessive frequent use.
The primary risk associated with the peeling mask is using it too frequently (more than twice a week). Indeed, this can cause various skin disorders:
An improper composition.
Furthermore, certain compounds should be avoided when choosing a peeling mask to free oneself from any skin discomfort or otherwise.
The BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole) and the BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene) can be found in peeling masks for their antioxidant properties. Indeed, these substances help to prevent oxidation and rancidity. However, these two substances are suspected to be endocrine disruptors. In simple terms, endocrine disruptors are molecules capable of deregulating the hormonal system. Moreover, the A.R.T.A.C. (French Association for Anti-Cancer Therapeutic Research) classifies them among the potentially carcinogenic substances. Finally, both molecules are also known to be sensitising, thus being a source of allergies.
To prevent the growth and colonisation of bacteria, synthetic preservatives are sometimes added to peeling masks.For instance, one might find phenoxyethanol. This compound cancause skin allergies, neurological disorders, as well as effects on reproduction. Given these factors, it is preferable not to opt for a treatment that contains phenoxyethanol. Moreover, some peeling masks contain parabens, recognised as endocrine disruptors (= which disrupt hormonal balance). Therefore, avoid choosing a peel that contains, for example, Butylparaben or Propylparaben in its INCI list.
Silicones are sometimes present in peeling masks. Although not all silicones have harmful effects on health and some are completely safe to use, cyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and cyclopentasiloxane (D5) are bothsuspected of being endocrine disruptors
Peeling mask: what precautions should be taken?
Avoid using a peeling mask if your skin is irritated, exhibits redness and/or skin conditions such as rosacea, eczema or psoriasis.
Ensure you adhere to the frequency of use and the application time indicated on the label for this skincare product.
We advise against performing a peeling mask before sun exposure. Indeed, this type of treatment can contain photosensitising compounds such as A.H.A. Furthermore, it has a "stripping" effect on the superficial layer of the epidermis, thus making the skin particularly receptive and sensitive to the sun's UV rays.
The peeling mask may slightly dry out the skin. It is therefore appropriate to apply a treatment afterwards to strengthen the skin barrier: : face serum, night serum, moisturising cream, vegetable oil, etc...
What is the potential alternative to consider?
However, this does not mean we should resign ourselves to stop using peeling masks, which truly revitalise the skin and help to limit the appearance of blackheads. Typology, in particular, offers a peeling mask composed of an exfoliating complex based on four AHAs and one PHA (INCI name: gluconolactone). Applying this concentrated gel mask once or twice a week helps to remove dead cells, unclog pores and refine the skin's texture.
Suitable for all skin types, the application of this mask is however not recommended for sensitive skin due to its high concentration of alpha hydroxy acids (AHA). Furthermore, these can increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun. Use a sunscreen and limit sun exposure when using this product and for a week afterwards.
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