BHA (ButylHydroxyAnisole) and BHT (ButylHydroxyToluene) are synthetic ingredients used both in food as additives, and in cosmetics as antioxidants. Suspected to be endocrine disruptors and carcinogens, they are also irritants and can cause allergies. For all these reasons, they are particularly criticised today. What is their regulation? What substitutes do we use at Typology? Discover some elements of response here.
Why doesn't Typology use BHT and BHA antioxidants?
Summary
Published on May 30, 2024, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 4 min of reading
Themes:
BHT and BHA, controversial antioxidants.
Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) and its associated compound butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) are phenolic species with antioxidant properties. They protect unsaturated fatty substances from oxidation processes that can occur when exposed to air. As a result, they extend the shelf life of emulsions. They are primarily found in skincare products with creamy or oily textures.
Studies on these active ingredients are still ongoing. However, some already reveal that when applied topically, BHA and BHT can sensitise the skin, and may lead to allergic reactions. Furthermore, this can also result in a modification of the hormonal system, manifesting as a stimulation of oestrogen, the female sex hormone, and an inhibition of the expression of male sex hormones. This disruption could have detrimental effects on reproduction.
When ingested, these compounds can be absorbed by the metabolism, which does not entirely eliminate them. Indeed, according to a study, only 50% of BHT would be eliminated through urinary excretion. Therefore, their accumulation could potentially cause malfunctions in certain organs, namely the kidneys, liver, and lungs.
A somewhat vague regulation.
In the context of these ongoing studies on endocrine disruption, the European Commission has classified BHA as a priority substance of category 1. On the other hand, the IARC (International Agency for Research on Cancer) has listed this substance as potentially carcinogenic. The French Association for Anti-Cancer Therapeutic Research (ARTAC) considers BHT as a "probably carcinogenic" substance.
In terms of their environmental impact, within the framework of the United Nations Environment Programme, BHT has been assessed as having a bioaccumulation potential ranging from medium to high in aquatic species. Despite these lingering doubts and in spite of this context, Regulation (EC) No 1223/2013 on cosmetic products currently does not mention any restrictions on the use of these antioxidants.
Typology does not incorporate BHT and BHA into its formulas.
It is for these reasons that at Typology we have decided to apply the precautionary principle and therefore not to include these compounds in our products. As a responsible skincare brand, we develop healthy, minimalist formulas devoid of criticised ingredients. Find our blacklist strict for products that respect your health and the environment.
Sources
LANIGAN R. S. & YAMARIK T. A. Final Report on the Safety Assessment of BHT. International Journal of Toxicology (2002).
YOSHINO S. Enhancement of allergic responses in vivo and in vitro by butylated hydroxytoluene. Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology (2007).
Study on Enhancing the Endocrine Disrupter Priority List with a Focus on Low Production Volume Chemicals, Revised Report to DG Environment, DHI Water and Environment, (2007).
