Peptides are biological actives composed of a sequence of amino acids. Their biomimicry with the constituents of skin cells makes them compounds that are particularly well tolerated by all skin types. Let's explore together the virtues that peptides bring to the skin.
What are the benefits of peptides for the skin?
Summary
Published on February 16, 2024, by Maylis, Chemical Engineer — 7 min of reading
Themes:
What exactly are peptides?
Peptides are small proteins, typically containing fewer than 100 amino acids. In terms of their I.N.C.I. nomenclature, Greek qualifying prefixes are used. For example, di-, tri-, tetra-, pentapeptides refer to peptides of 2, 3, 4 and 5 amino acids in length, and so on. There are several variations: acetyl tetrapeptide-15, hexapeptide-2, acetyl tetrapeptide-9, alanyl glutamine, acetyl tetrapeptide-11, acetyl hexapeptide-1, tetrapeptide-2, carnosine, cyclopeptide-5...
In skincare, peptides can be classified into four categories:
The oligopeptides (or carrier peptides) provide trace elements to the skin to stimulate collagen.
The enzyme inhibiting peptides slow down the action of enzymes that degrade certain skin proteins (collagen, elastin, filaggrin) or even glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid.
The signalling peptides send messages to stimulate the production of certain proteins such as collagen, elastin, or even hyaluronic acid.
The neurotransmitter peptides are often compared to "botox" due to their inhibitory activity on the release of toxins that induce muscle contraction and expression lines.
Peptides, multifunctional agents for combating the signs of ageing.
As a general rule, peptides act on various targets involved in supporting and enhancing skin density to limit skin ageing:
Stimulate cellular proliferation.
Certain peptides such as theacetyl tetrapeptide-11 increase cellular density, while also accelerating skin regeneration. The skin then gains in volume and the appearance of fine lines is diminished.
Combatting oxidative stress.
Other peptides such as the cyclopeptide-5 have a strong antioxidant activity. Thus, they inhibit the formation of free radicals, extremely reactive oxygen-derived species, which degrade healthy skin cells and proteins, accelerating its ageing.
Stimulate the production of collagen and elastin.
As a reminder, with age, the activity and number of fibroblasts decrease. This consequently leads to a reduction in the production of collagen and elastin, which are responsible for the firmness and elasticity of the skin. This then results in a skin laxity, a sagging of the skin and the appearance of wrinkles which, over the years, become more numerous and deeper. The peptides that boost the synthesis of collagen and elastin are the palmitoyl tripeptide-5, theacetyl tetrapeptide-9, the acetyl tetrapeptide-2, the tripeptide-10 citrulline or the Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76.
Maintaining skin hydration.
Oligopeptides can penetrate cells and deliver minerals, such as calcium, manganese, and iron. This helps to promote collagen production in order to improve the skin's elasticity and hydration. Moreover, certain peptides stimulate the production of hyaluronic acid, resulting in hydrated, plump, and smoother skin.
Discover Typology skincare products containing peptides.
Among our skincare products, ourredensifying complex contains three different peptides. These act simultaneously on various targets involved in the support and density of the skin. Theacetyl tetrapeptide-9 works on the lumican protein to strengthen the skin's structure. Theacetyl tetrapeptide-11 acts on a protein present on the skin's surface to smooth it. The cyclo tetrapeptide-24 (INCI name: "Cyclotetrapeptide-24 Aminocyclohexane Carboxylate") is an antioxidant and helps to combat free radicals.
We have also designed a hyperpigmentation and firmness serum that combines high concentrationtranexamic acid (5%) with anacetyl tetrapeptide-2, a multi-functional peptide, to reduce the appearance of pigment spots and firm the skin. The tetrapeptide-2 stimulates the synthesis of key molecules involved in skin support and firmness: elastin, collagen and fibrillin. It also inhibits certain reactions in the melanogenesis process, thus reducing brown spots. Finally, it has a strong antioxidant power that ensures skin protection against free radicals and revives its natural glow.
Finally, ourwrinkle and blemish serum combines the densifying action of retinol (0.3%) with the anti-bacterial action of bakuchiol (1%) to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and correct blemishes. Synthesised by endemic Australian plants, it also contains plant polypeptides capable of working in synergy with retinol topromote the synthesis of type I collagen. They thus help to reduce the depth of wrinkles and densify the skin.
Sources:
LINTNER K. Peptides : What else ? Cosmeticobs (2014).
SCHAGEN S. K. Topical peptide treatments with effective anti-aging results. Cosmetics (2016).
FERREIRA M. S. & al. Trending anti-aging peptides. Cosmetics (2020).
PERLIKOWSKA R. Signal peptides - Promising ingredients in cosmetics. Current Protein & Peptide Science (2021).
Dr. KRIVOSHIEV B. Peptides and proteins in cosmetics. Biorius.
