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Tranexamic acid

Commonly known as: Tranexamic acid, ATX, 4-(methylamino)cyclohexanecarboxylic acid.
I.N.C.I. list name: Tranexamic Acid.
Extraction process: Structural modification of lysine.
Source: Synthetic.
Botanical name: /
Family: /
Part of the plant extracted: /
Provenance, origin: /
Chemical characteristics: Synthetic analogue of amino lysine; molecular mass: 157.21 g/mol; soluble in water and glacial acetic acid; practically insoluble in acetone and alcohol; pH range: 3–8.
Characteristics: Colloidal solution, emulsion, true hydrophilic solution.
Dosage required in cosmetic products: Recommended concentration: between 2 and 5%.
Function: Astringent, skin conditioning agent.
Properties: Anti-inflammatory, anti-angiogenic, soothing, depigmenting/brightening, regenerating, unifying.
Benefits: All skin types, including those prone to pigmentary irregularities (melasma, sun spots, post-acne brown marks, etc.) or redness. Use for brown under-eye circles.

Details

Properties

  • Anti-inflammatory: Prevent and reduce redness by inhibiting pro-inflammatory mediator release. It is useful for skin prone to rosacea or irritation.

  • Brightening: Reduces the appearance of pigment spots for a more even complexion. Targets multiple stages of melanogenesis to limit melanin production.

  • Regenerative: Restore skin barrier function by reinforcing cell cohesion and promoting epidermal lipid synthesis.

Applications

  • Facial care (toning lotions, anti-dark-spot serums, eye-contour treatments, moisturising creams, gel-creams, masks, sun care);

  • Body care (body milks).

Storage instructions

Store in a cool, dry place (at an ambient temperature below 25 °C), away from moisture, heat, and light.

Contraindications and precautions for use

The risk of side effects is generally higher when tranexamic acid is administered orally or by injection, compared with topical application. When applied locally to the skin, it has a favourable tolerance profile, with no major adverse effects reported, and is suitable for all skin types.

In rare cases, a skin reaction may occur. A 2014 study reported frequent side effects: skin dryness, peeling and mild irritation.

It is recommended toperform an epicutaneous test on a small area of skin before applying to the entire face. To date, no data suggest that topical tranexamic acid poses a risk for pregnant or breastfeeding women.

Find out more

Tranexamic acid is a synthetic lysine derivative developed in the 1960s by Japanese researchers. It was designed as a haemostatic agent to reduce haemorrhages by inhibiting fibrinolysis, the process that breaks down blood clots. It then found an application in dermatology and cosmetology. In 1979, an unexpected side effect drew a doctor’s attention: skin depigmentation in a patient treated orally for chronic urticaria. This incidental finding prompted further research into its lightening potential. Today, although its efficacy when applied topically remains under study, tranexamic acid is included in several cosmetic formulations targeting pigmentary disorders.