Which active ingredients should be used during the menstrual cycle?

From puberty to menopause, a woman's sex hormones, namely oestrogens and progesterone, influence fertility and the menstrual cycle. These hormonal fluctuations have an impact on human psychology and physiology. Indeed, hormones influence mood, body shape, but also the appearance of the skin.

The oestrogens play a significant role in skin hydration and elasticity by promoting the synthesis of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. The progesterone, on the other hand, is a steroidal hormone that works by binding to a receptor in the sebaceous glands. This stimulates the production of sebum and tends to make the skin oilier.

The levels of oestrogen and progesterone fluctuate throughout the menstrual cycle. This cycle begins on the first day of menstruation and ends at the start of the next menstrual period. Its duration can vary from woman to woman and from month to month, but it is generally between 23 and 35 days. The menstrual cycle can be divided into 3 distinct phases:

1. The menstrual phase: during this period, the levels of oestrogen and progesterone are very low. In some women, this can result in skin that is drier and more sensitive than usual. This period typically lasts from 3 to 7 days.

2. The follicular (pre-ovulatory) phase: During this stage, the body intensively prepares for ovulation. Several thousand follicles develop in the ovaries, of which only one will reach maturity. This phenomenon occurs primarily due to the production of follicle-stimulating hormone (FSH) by the pituitary gland. Simultaneously, the level of oestrogens significantly increases. The skin then appears hydrated and smooth, due to the high prevalence of this hormone in the body.

3. The luteal (post-ovulatory) phase: following ovulation, which typically occurs on the 14th day, the level of oestrogen drops sharply while the synthesis of progesterone intensifies. This hormone promotes the production of sebum, which increases the risk of skin imperfections. A few days after ovulation, as the level of progesterone continues to rise, the secretion of oestrogen resumes.

Throughout the menstrual cycle, the fluctuation of oestrogen and progesterone levels has an impact on the appearance of the skin. At the beginning of the cycle, during the period, hormone levels in the body are relatively low. In some women, this can result in a drier and more sensitive skin. During this phase, it is recommended to apply treatments containing hydrating active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, coconut oil or glycerine. You can also use soothing active ingredients to alleviate feelings of tightness, which often occur when the skin is dry. For this, we recommend aloe vera gel and squalane.

During the follicular phase, the skin becomes more supple and is better hydrated, following the synthesis of oestrogen. To enhance its radiance and prevent skin ageing, you can apply during this period treatments enriched with collagen, vitamin C or niacinamide.

Following ovulation, the synthesis of progesterone increases. This hormone stimulates the production of sebum by the sebaceous glands, which tends to make the skin oily and prone to blemishes. To combat this phenomenon, it can be beneficial to use treatments containing astringent and purifying active ingredients, such as the azelaic acid, the salicylic acid, the zinc or the vegetable charcoal.

At Typology, we have designed and launched a range of products based on the menstrual cycle and adapting to hormonal fluctuations, called "Woman". It consists of four serums, one for each week, addressing the various skin issues encountered during the menstrual cycle.

• Week No.1: Hydrating and soothing serum.

  During the menstrual phase, it is observed that the synthesis of oestrogen and progesterone is low, which increases the sensitivity and dryness of the skin. Therefore, it is important to apply a moisturising treatment during this period to help the skin remain supple.

  Rich in hyaluronic acid (INCI name: Sodium Hyaluronate), in aloe vera (INCI name: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder), in cornflower floral water (INCI name: Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water) and in bisabolol, the Serum 1 offered by Typology meets this need by hydrating and soothing the skin.

• Week No. 2: Flexibility and Radiance Serum.

  During this period when the oestrogen level gradually increases, the skin can still lack radiance and appear tired. The Serum 2 offered by Typology is enriched with vitamin C (INCI name: Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate) and fruit acids, blueberry (INCI name: Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract), lemon (INCI name: Citrus Limon Fruit Extract) and orange (INCI name: Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract), to provide suppleness and restore radiance to the skin.

  Vitamin C works in synergy with vitamin E (INCI name: Tocopherol) to combat free radicals, which are responsible for oxidative stress and premature skin ageing. It also helps to stimulate the production of elastin and collagen fibres. Unlike other serums, the flexibility and radiance serum is only applied in the evening, as some of the active ingredients in its formula can be photosensitive.

• Week No. 3: Hydrating and Astringent Serum.

  During this phase, the level of oestrogen drops. Conversely, the amount of progesterone in the body begins to increase. The reduction in the number of oestrogens leads to a gradual decrease in skin hydration, while the increase in progesterone makes the skin oilier. At first glance these two phenomena may seem contradictory, but they particularly impact individuals with dry or oily skin.

  Enriched with sugars extracted from wheat (INCI name: Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Glucose), Typology's Serum 3 combats skin dehydration. It contributes to the maintenance of the hydrolipidic film on the surface of the epidermis and limits water loss through the skin. This film plays a significant role in skin protection against external aggressions (wind, cold, pollution...). Furthermore, this serum is enriched with mastic tree (INCI name: Pistacia Lentiscus Gum), which has purifying and mattifying properties, beneficial for oily skin.

• Week No. 4: Mattifying Serum and Anti-Blemish.

  Following the increase in progesterone levels, the sebaceous glands produce a significant amount of sebum during this phase. This period is conducive to the emergence ofblemishes, such as blackheads or spots, and to the dilation of pores.

  The application of an exfoliating treatment can help to reduce these inconveniences. The Serum 4 offered by Typology is enriched with marine algae extract (INCI name: Saccharide Isomerate) and zinc PCA. A friend to oily skin, the latter has sebum-regulating properties, and helps to unclog pores and mattify the skin. For optimal results, we recommend focusing on the areas of the face most prone to imperfections, namely the forehead, nose and chin.

To facilitate their use, we advise you to apply each serum for a week, starting on the first day of your menstrual cycle. It can be quite challenging to align this perfectly with your cycle.

• SKOUBY S. & al. Menstrual cycle and skin reactivity. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (1991).

• MILLINGTON G. & al. The menstrual cycle and the skin. Clinical and Experimental Dermatology (2015).