Salicylic acid: what benefits for the skin?

Benefit no. 1 of salicylic acid: an ally against skin imperfections.

If salicylic acid has become the reference active ingredient for caring for blemish‑prone skin, it is due to its multidimensional mode of action. It does not act only at the surface, but also targets the various biological factors involved in the pathogenesis of acne.

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Reminder of the causes of imperfection formation.

The formation of a defect is based on four pillars:

Hyperseborrhoea : Excessive sebum production makes the skin oily and shiny.
Hyperkeratinisation : A build-up of dead cells at the entrance to the pilosebaceous duct creates a “plug”.
Bacterial proliferation : The trapped sebum becomes an ideal culture medium for the bacterium Cutibacterium acnes.
Inflammation : C. acnes secretes inflammatory mediators, which are compounded by the body’s immune response.

Salicylic acid acts on all of these factors.

A sebum-regulating action of salicylic acid.
Salicylic acid acts on the production of sebum. Studies carried out on cultures of human sebocytes show that it reduces lipogenesis, that is, the synthesis of fats, by downregulating the AMPK/SREBP‑1 signalling pathway. This biological mechanism slows the production of fatty acids and triglycerides in sebum. Facial biopsies performed after the application of salicylic acid peels have also confirmed, in vivo, a decrease in the expression of certain enzymes involved in lipogenesis, such as fatty acid synthase, thereby helping to limit shine-prone areas and the blockage of pores.
A comedolytic effect of salicylic acid.
Thanks to its fat-soluble nature, salicylic acid can dissolve in the lipid-rich sebum and penetrate deep into the pore. Its keratolytic effect enables it to break the desmosomes, which are the intercellular junctions that hold dead cells together. In this way, it clears the pores, facilitates the evacuation of sebum, and prevents the formation of comedones, such as blackheads.
On the antibacterial properties of salicylic acid.
Salicylic acid can reduce the proliferation of Cutibacterium acnes, the bacterium partly responsible for acne, through a dual mechanism. First, this active ingredient can disrupt biofilms, the structures formed by bacterial colonies to protect themselves. Secondly, by reducing excess sebum and slightly acidifying the skin pH, salicylic acid alters the follicular ecosystem, making it less hospitable to the development of the bacterium.
An anti-inflammatory activity of salicylic acid.
Salicylic acid acts directly on the inflammatory cascade by inhibiting signalling pathways such as COX and the NF-κB factor. In human sebocytes, this inhibition drastically reduces the production of pro-inflammatory mediators. Preclinical models have confirmed this activity, showing a decrease in local cytokines around lesions. Clinically, salicylic acid has been shown to downregulate several inflammatory markers such as IL-1α, IL-6, IL-17 and TLR-2, resulting in reduced redness and inflammation.

All of these mechanisms of salicylic acid ultimately result in a reduction in skin imperfections.

The effectiveness of this molecule is not based solely on cellular observations, but has been robustly documented through numerous clinical trials. The results of several studies are summarised in the table below:

Study	Protocol	Number of volunteers	Concentration of salicylic acid	Duration of the study	Results
HOWIDA & al. (2015)	Application of peels every 2 weeks.	20 (phototypes III to V)	30%	8 weeks	Overall improvement observed in 95% of patients. Efficacy particularly pronounced on inflammatory lesions (85% improvement).
MOHSEN & al. (2016)	Application of peels every 2 weeks.	43	30%	8 weeks	Significant reduction in the number of comedones, papules, and in the acne severity index.
CHEN & al. (2022)	Application of peels every 2 weeks (4 sessions in total).	25	30%	8 weeks (and 2 weeks of follow-up)	Reduction in acne severity score. Significant decrease in sebum and inflammation.
CHEN & al. (2022)	Application of peels every 2 weeks (4 sessions in total).	28	30%	8 weeks	Improvement of the cutaneous microbiota (reduction in staphylococci) and decrease in inflammatory markers (IL-1α, IL-6, IL-17).
LIN & al. (2025)	Daily application of a mask (left on for 10 minutes, then rinsed off).	22	2%	4 weeks	Progressive reduction in the number of lesions from the first week, reaching more than a 52% decrease by the end of the study. Very good overall tolerability.
AI & al. (2025)	Twice-daily application of a gel to the entire face.	42	2%	21 days	Reduction in sebum (-23.65%) and acne severity (-23.81%). Increase in hydration (+40.5%) and strengthening of the skin barrier (PIE -49.26%).

Overview of selected clinical studies on the effectiveness of salicylic acid in treating skin imperfections.

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Benefit no. 2 of salicylic acid: a molecule that reduces the visibility of dark spots.

Beyond its effect on acne, salicylic acid can help even out the complexion and reduce pigmentation spots. Its effectiveness is mainly based on its keratolytic action: by breaking the bonds between the cells of the stratum corneum, it accelerates cell renewal and promotes the removal of melanin-loaded keratinocytes at the skin surface.

The value of salicylic acid in reducing pigmentary disorders has been highlighted in various studies, including a clinical trial involving 150 participants. In this trial, the participants were divided into two groups to compare the effectiveness of peels containing 35% glycolic acid with those containing 20% salicylic acid. After four sessions carried out at two‑week intervals, the results showed a significant improvement in the Melasma Area and Severity Index (MASI). The study also emphasised that the peels were very well tolerated by the volunteers, with no major adverse effects reported.

49.02%

reduction in the MASI score in the group treated with glycolic acid.

46.25%

of reduction in the MASI score in the group treated with salicylic acid.

In summary, salicylic acid stands out as an effective alternative to conventional depigmenting treatments, promoting a more even and radiant complexion.

Benefit no. 3 of salicylic acid: an active ingredient to limit photoageing.

Finally, although salicylic acid is mentioned less often than retinol or hyaluronic acid in the fight against skin ageing, its benefits for photoageing are nonetheless very real. In addition to its exfoliating action, which refines skin texture, salicylic acid acts on the very structure of the dermis. Research indicates that it is capable of stimulating collagen synthesis and enhancing skin elasticity. Glycolic acid thus helps to compensate for the structural damage caused in particular by exposure to UV rays and to reduce the visible signs of skin ageing.

The effectiveness of glycolic acid in reducing the visible signs of ageing has been confirmed by a large study conducted on 280 patients. The protocol involved a monthly application of a 30% salicylic acid peel for a period of 6 months. The results, assessed using the Lemperle scale, which grades wrinkles from 0 (no wrinkles) to 5 (very deep wrinkles), are particularly compelling. By the end of the study, the majority of patients showed a reduction in their wrinkle grade. This significant decrease in wrinkle depth was accompanied by an excellent satisfaction rate, with 93.5% of participants rating the results as “very good”.

72.7%

participants initially classified as grade IV progressed to grade III.

68.5%

participants initially classified as grade III progressed to grade II.

Despite some temporary side effects, such as sensations of warmth, salicylic acid appears to be a relevant active ingredient for reducing the appearance of wrinkles.