What are the benefits of zinc for the skin?

Zinc is frequently found in treatments designed for blemish‑prone skin.

This is primarily due to its anti-inflammatory properties. Several studies have shown that it helps modulate the cutaneous immune response by reducing the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines, such as IL-1β, IL-17A and TNF-α, which are involved in the inflammatory processes observed in acne. By limiting this inflammation, zinc helps to reduce redness and inflammatory lesions, such as papules and pustules.

Zinc also has mattifying and antibacterial properties. On the one hand, it can reduce sebum production by inhibiting the enzyme 5-alpha-reductase, which is responsible for converting testosterone into dihydrotestosterone (DHT), a hormone that stimulates the activity of the sebaceous glands. By limiting this hormonal stimulation, zinc helps to reduce excess sebum, which can clog the skin’s pores and lead to blemishes. On the other hand, certain forms of zinc exhibit antimicrobial activity against Cutibacterium acnes, the bacterium associated with the development of acne lesions.

These effects have notably been investigated in recent research on zinc oxide (ZnO). A review published in 2025 analysed several in vitro studies, animal studies, and one clinical study in humans on the topical use of zinc oxide against Cutibacterium acnes. In the clinical study included, the application of a gel containing 0.5% zinc oxide combined with hyaluronic acid, used twice daily, significantly reduced the number of inflammatory lesions after four weeks, without causing skin irritation.

Remark : Zinc oxide is not the only form of zinc capable of acting against blemishes. Zinc PCA, a form of zinc combined with PCA, a Natural Moisturising Factor, as well as zinc sulphate, can also help reduce acne lesions.

Thanks to this combination of anti-inflammatory, sebum-regulating and antibacterial effects, zinc therefore appears to be a valuable active ingredient for reducing blemishes and rebalancing acne-prone skin.

Zinc is often recommended for oily skin. This trace element may indeed influence the activity of the sebaceous glands, which are responsible for sebum production. Some research suggests that it has a moderate anti-androgenic activity, notably by partially inhibiting the enzyme 5α-reductase, which is involved in the conversion of testosterone into dihydrotestosterone (DHT). This hormone stimulates the sebaceous glands and promotes sebum production. By limiting this hormonal stimulation, zinc may help to reduce excess sebum and lessen shiny areas.

Clinical studies have also observed this mattifying effect in topical formulations. In a double-blind study, 14 volunteers applied, for three months, a lotion containing 4% erythromycin and 1.2% zinc to one half of the forehead, while the other half received an erythromycin-based lotion alone. Sebum production was measured at regular intervals. The results showed a significant decrease in the amount of sebum with the formulation combining zinc and the antibiotic. At the end of the study, the surface area of lipid deposits had decreased by more than 20%, suggesting that combining zinc with erythromycin has a measurable mattifying effect, which may be beneficial for individuals with oily skin.

In the form of zinc oxide (ZnO), zinc is used as a mineral sunscreen filter. It works by forming a barrier on the surface of the skin that is able to reflect, scatter and absorb part of the UV radiation, in particular UVB and a broad proportion of UVA. Zinc oxide acts mainly as a physical screen, which explains its frequent use in sunscreens designed for sensitive skin or for children. It also has the advantage of being photostable and well tolerated.

To avoid the whitening effect on the skin sometimes associated with zinc oxide, some companies use zinc oxide nanoparticles. By reducing particle size, it becomes possible to obtain lighter textures that are visually more discreet. This nevertheless raises certain questions regarding their potential safety. The available scientific data indicate that, on healthy skin, ZnO nanoparticles penetrate only minimally beyond the stratum corneum, which limits their passage into the body. However, some studies suggest that at high concentrations, or on fragile skin, these particles could penetrate into the body. Furthermore, zinc oxide is toxic if inhaled. This is why it is prohibited in sprays and mists.

At Typology, in accordance with our formulation charter, we do not use nanoparticles.

Zinc plays an important role in the processes of skin wound healing.

This trace element is involved in numerous enzymatic reactions implicated in tissue repair and helps regulate inflammation, an essential stage of the healing process. It also promotes the proliferation of keratinocytes, the main cells of the epidermis, and takes part in the synthesis of collagen and extracellular matrix proteins. Furthermore, Zn²⁺ ions can support the activity of the local immune system, thereby helping to create an environment conducive to skin repair following an injury or irritation.

Several studies have investigated the effects of zinc applied directly to the skin. In a double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial, researchers assessed the effect of an emulsion containing 1.1% zinc oxide on wound healing in two standardised models of cutaneous lesions. The results showed that Zn²⁺ ions have anti-inflammatory properties, notably by reducing the secretion of interleukin‑1α by keratinocytes, a mediator involved in cutaneous inflammatory responses. Furthermore, the topical application of ZnO has been associated with improved regeneration of the epidermis.

Other experimental studies have also explored the role of zinc in tissue repair. In an animal model of cutaneous wound, the application of a zinc sulphate gel showed beneficial effects on healing by reducing inflammation and oxidative stress. The researchers observed that zinc ions could modulate the activity of macrophages, immune cells involved in tissue repair, which promotes the skin’s progression into the proliferative phase of wound healing. This process is accompanied by an increase in the production of collagen, the formation of granulation tissue, and the remodelling of the extracellular matrix, all of which are essential steps for skin regeneration.

These various studies suggest that zinc may support the skin’s natural repair mechanisms, without, however, replacing medical treatment in the case of an extensive or significant wound.

Zinc is also of interest for reducing skin hyperpigmentation, particularly melasma, by acting on melanogenesis, the process responsible for melanin production. Experimental studies suggest, for example, that certain zinc derivatives can interfere with the JNK and p38 MAPK signalling pathways, which are involved in regulating melanocyte activity. By inhibiting these pathways, it may be possible to limit melanin synthesis, which could help to reduce the appearance of pigmented lesions. In animal models, certain formulations containing zinc, such as zinc combined with liquorice extracts, have shown a decrease in skin pigmentation and melanin production.

The potential depigmenting properties of zinc have also been investigated in clinical trials in patients with melasma. In a study involving 93 women, participants received either a 10% zinc sulphate solution or a 4% hydroquinone solution, applied once daily for two months. Changes in melasma severity were assessed using the MASI (Melasma Area and Severity Index) score. A significant decrease in MASI score was observed in both groups, but the improvement was more pronounced with hydroquinone. However, zinc sulphate was clearly better tolerated.

The authors conclude that, although topical zinc does not appear to be as effective as hydroquinone in reducing melasma severity, it may be of interest in combination with other depigmenting agents, a possibility that warrants investigation in future clinical trials.

Zinc also plays a role in the protection of the skin against oxidative stress, a phenomenon linked to the accumulation of free radicals capable of damaging cells. Its antioxidant action is based on several mechanisms. On the one hand, it helps to reduce the formation of reactive oxygen species by competing with certain pro-oxidant metals, such as copper and iron. These metals can promote the conversion of hydrogen peroxide into hydroxyl radicals, highly reactive molecules that can damage DNA, proteins or cellular lipids. By occupying certain binding sites, zinc limits this reaction and thereby slows the production of free radicals. It also stimulates the expression of certain antioxidant enzymes, such as Cu/Zn superoxide dismutase (Cu/Zn-SOD), as well as metallothioneins, proteins capable of neutralising reactive species.

This protection is particularly important for the skin, as it is continually exposed to factors that promote the production of free radicals, such as UV rays, pollution or tobacco.

When these reactive species accumulate, they can damage membrane lipids, structural proteins and the DNA of skin cells. This phenomenon notably contributes to premature skin ageing and can exacerbate inflammation. By helping to strengthen the body’s antioxidant defences, zinc thus helps to preserve the integrity of skin cells and to maintain a more resilient skin environment in the face of external aggressions.

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