For a scrub to be effective, it's not enough for it to contain the right ingredients or for its formula to be based on granules or fruit acids. It also needs to be applied in the correct manner and, crucially, at the right time. Our experts reveal the practices to adopt that can enhance the benefits of the scrub, and those to avoid.
The secrets of an effective exfoliation.
Summary
Published on August 8, 2024, by Stéphanie, PhD, Doctorate in Life and Health Sciences — 8 min of reading
Themes:
1. A scrub suitable for each part of the body.
Our entire body is covered with dead cells, which can lead to a loss of radiance, hair fall, skin eruptions, etc... if they are not removed. That's why it's important to exfoliate in order to regain healthier and more radiant skin. However, this exfoliation process varies depending on the part of the body.
Body, face, lips, scalp... the structure, thickness, sensitivity and hydrolipidic film vary greatly depending on the area in question. The scrubs and the way they are applied must therefore be adapted to the specificities of each skin type depending on the area to be exfoliated:
The scalp : Even the scalp needs to be exfoliated to lift dandruff, remove dirt that has embedded itself in the hair bulb, and thus prevent the hair from becoming greasy and falling out. To perform a gentle scrub of the scalp, you can either use a scrubbing shampoo or a hair scrub with gentle formulas. These treatments should be done at least once a month.
The face : While the body has a relatively thick skin texture, the face, on the other hand, can be sensitive to certain treatments and care that are too abrasive. This is why these two areas must absolutely be exfoliated in two different ways. Therefore, opt for a gentler scrub, with finer grains and less concentrated.
Except for acne-prone, dry or sensitive skin : avoid mechanical scrubs with grains and opt for a chemical scrub based on fruit acids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid which are gentler and do not require friction like a scrub based on grains.
Do not forget to also exfoliate your lips to prevent chapping, using a moisturising scrub specifically designed for this area.
The body : Choose a scrub that is more concentrated in grains than that of the face and particularly effective on the roughest parts such as the elbows, heels or knees, requiring a more vigorous scrub to prevent the appearance of imperfections or ingrown hairs. On the contrary, the neck, groin or armpits will require a gentler, less energetic scrub, as these are more sensitive areas. However, for the décolletage, it is better to use your face scrub, which will prevent the area from becoming fragile and irritated.
Of course, it is advisable to avoid exfoliating intimate areas or highly sensitive zones such as the nipples.
2. Certain mistakes to avoid.
Exfoliating doesn't mean stripping!
Indeed, while the skin requires a boost in its microcirculation and cellular renewal to fully absorb the active ingredients of skincare products, it primarily demands gentleness. It is unnecessary to scrub too hard or persist during the application of your exfoliant, as this is not a very good idea. Firstly, because the result will be counterproductive, as your epidermis has a very fragile skin barrier that protects it and will struggle to withstand your harsh movements. But also, and most importantly, because this method will be of no use if you have blemishes and wish to get rid of them. If you scrub the exfoliant grains against your skin too hard, you will create micro-lesions within the blemish itself and release the bacteria lodged there. The result is: A colony of microorganisms can develop and give rise to new blemishes.
Similarly, while exfoliation is beneficial for rejuvenating the skin's radiance and eliminating dead cells and other embedded impurities, it is better not to exfoliate too frequently. Indeed, skin that is exfoliated too often will become thinner, more fragile, more sensitive, can damage very quickly and will consequently start to produce an excess of sebum in defence, which will inevitably lead to an acne outbreak. Performing two exfoliations per week is already too much, especially if you have dry or sensitive skin and you are using a granular scrub. Beyond this, you risk stripping your skin.
Furthermore, scrubs should not be done at just any time. It is more prudent to do it in the evening to allow the epidermis time to regenerate overnight. Indeed, the scrubbing will have compromised the hydrolipidic film that protects you from external aggressions. Indeed, the skin is less exposed to stress and pollutants, but it will not risk being "suffocated" by makeup. Moreover, in summer, space out your scrubbing sessions and plan them a few days before prolonged sun exposure, as the skin needs to thicken to protect itself from the sun, particularly promoting the appearance of pigmentation spots and wrinkles.
3. Proceed step by step.
In order for the exfoliation to demonstrate its full effectiveness, it needs to be incorporated into your skincare routine. Here are the various steps to follow:
Step 1: First and foremost, the exfoliation is a rather aggressive treatment, which is why it is better to do it in the evening, before bedtime, to allow the skin to rest afterwards. To begin with, it should be applied to a clean skin. Depending on the exfoliant used, it can be applied either to dry skin or to wet skin, and sometimes even requires a pause time.
Step 2: On wet or dry face, also applicable to other body parts, then apply your grain scrub or your enzymatic exfoliant depending on your skin type. Gently apply the product to your epidermis and spread it with the pads of your fingers across your entire face using circular motions to stimulate blood circulation, then rinse with clear water.
Step 3: After your exfoliation, apply a mask to nourish and hydrate the skin deeply, repair and regenerate cells, but also to help the skin restore the hydrolipidic film that has just been compromised. For instance, a hydrating mask for normal to combination skin, a nourishing mask for dry skin, a firming mask for mature skin and a purifying mask for oily skin.
Step 4: Now that the skin is clean and exfoliated, the time has come to apply your night serum ! Packed with active ingredients, this should be chosen based on your skin's needs.
Step 5: After the serum, complete your skincare routine with a moisturising cream. Whether rich or lighter, you'll need to adapt the texture according to your skin and the season. You can also resort to vegetable oils, which will help to retain water in the skin tissues while providing a real nutritional contribution. Of course, the same hydration ritual should be done for the body and even the scalp.
