The effects of the peeling mask on blackheads.

Blackheads or open comedones are blemishes embedded beneath the epidermis. They are visible to the naked eye and feel rough to the touch. They are caused by the accumulation of excess sebum (hyperseborrhea) and the deposit of keratinocytes (hyperkeratinisation) which block the hair follicles. This mixture, upon contact with air, oxidises, and thus forms a small, hard black ball on the surface.

If left untreated, blackheads can rupture and release their contents outward, either spontaneously or when pressure is applied with fingers or a comedone extractor. They can also progress to an inflammatory stage and form red and painful acne spots. Blackheads appear more frequently on combination to oily skin types, particularly in areas rich in sebaceous glands: the nose, forehead and chin, but also the chest or décolletage, shoulders and back.

There are certain factors that promote the occurrence of blackheads:

• An improperly cleansed skin;

• An irritation of the skin (dysfunctional barrier function) stimulating the overproduction of sebum;

• The application of comedogenic skincare products such as coconut oil;

• Hormonal changes (puberty, menstruation, pregnancy, intake of certain pills, menopause);

• Pollution;

• Thefrequent and prolonged exposure to the sun.

To diminish the appearance of blackheads and/or prevent their occurrence, certain treatments are highly recommended, such as performing peeling masks once or twice a week.

The term 'peeling' refers to the act of peeling. In fact, it is aboutexfoliating the superficial layer of the epidermis to promote cellular renewal.

Peeling differs from scrubbing in its mode of action. Scrubbing is a mechanical exfoliation that removes dead cells from the epidermis through friction. Peeling is a chemical exfoliation that eliminates keratinocytes by breaking the ionic bonds, thus destabilising the horny layer and causing its gradual detachment.

Generally, a chemical peel involves substances known as AHA (alpha hydroxy acid), BHA (beta hydroxy acid) or PHA (poly hydroxy acid).

• The most common AHAs are theglycolic acidand thelactic acid. Glycolic acid, being smaller in size than lactic acid, penetrates deeper into the epidermis, hence its greater potential for irritation. For this reason, chemical peels based on lactic acid are generally recommended for the most sensitive skin types.

• The most common BHA in cosmetics is thesalicylic acid. Its antibacterial properties make it an active ingredient of choice for the chemical exfoliation of combination to oily skin with blemishes.

• With a larger molecular size than AHA and BHA, PHA penetrate less deeply into the epidermis and are more suitable for atopic skin and/or skin with cutaneous conditions. The three main PHAs used in cosmetics are the gluconolactone, an antioxidant that effectively combats inflammation; the galactose, which stimulates collagen production and the lactobionic acid known for its moisturising properties.

As previously stated, blackheads appear due to the blockage of pores. To prevent them, it is necessary to eliminate all the factors causing this blockage: the accumulation of sebum, dead cells, and impurities on the skin's surface.

Thanks to the exfoliating effects of a peeling mask, pores are unclogged and the skin texture is refined. Not only does this type of treatment eliminate existing blackheads on the skin's surface, but it also prevents their formation.

The AHA 10% + PHA 10% peeling mask is a treatment that acts on the superficial layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum. This gel-mask helps to unclog pores, renew the skin and brighten the complexion thanks to the combined action of the four AHAs and the PHA it contains. It leaves the complexion even and the skin texture smoothed.

Suitable for all skin types, the application of this mask is however not recommended for sensitive skin due to its high concentration of alpha hydroxy acids (AHA). Furthermore, these can increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun. Use a sunscreen and limit sun exposure while using this product and for a week afterwards.

How to use it?

Apply the mask in a semi-thick layer on the face, leave it on for 10 minutes and then rinse with clear water. This treatment should not be used more than once or twice a week, to avoid causing excessive abrasion that could have the opposite effect of the desired result: "overstimulating" the sebaceous glands.