These two skin imperfections are directly correlated. When we talk about enlarged pores, we are actually referring to dilated ostia. Indeed, ostia are the outlets for sebum elimination, while pores are the sweat excretion holes. However, in general parlance, we tend to refer to enlarged pores when discussing sebaceous pores, which are often more visible on the T-zone of the face (forehead, nose, chin).
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The connection between blackheads and enlarged pores.
Summary
- What are the reasons for pore enlargement?
- Why does pore dilation promote the appearance of blackheads?
- How to differentiate between blackheads and enlarged pores?
- Which treatments should be used against blackheads and enlarged pores?
- Sources
Published September 8, 2022,
updated on February 19, 2024,
by
Maylis, Chemical Engineer
—
6 min read
What are the reasons for pore enlargement?
Pores can become unsightly when they are enlarged, giving the appearance of a rough skin texture. According to a study, skin pores are said to be "visible" and "enlarged" when their diameter ranges between 0.06 and 0.1 mm2. Two types of causes are responsible for enlarged pores:
Internal causes: Sex, genetic predisposition, skin ageing, overproduction of sebum (hyperseborrhea), hormonal fluctuations;
External causes: Chronic exposure to UV rays, use of comedogenic xenobiotics, poor skin hygiene (accumulation of dirt and impurities on the skin surface).
Why does pore dilation promote the appearance of blackheads?
When pores are large and dilated, they act as real "entry gates" for impurities (pollution microparticles, dead cells, cosmetic residues, sebum...).
At this point, a phenomenon of saturation occurs, leading to the formation of "plugs". Upon contact with air, these oxidise and take on a dark hue: blackheads (or open comedones) appear.
If not treated, blackheads can rupture and release their contents outward, either spontaneously or when pressure is applied with fingers or a comedone extractor. They can also progress to an inflammatory stage and form red and painful acne spots.
One should avoid handling their blackheads to prevent infection. However, they rarely disappear on their own and it may be beneficial to seek a professional skin cleansing or to have your comedones mechanically extracted by a dermatologist. This allows for the pores to be unblocked, enabling the skin to better absorb applied treatments.
How to differentiate between blackheads and enlarged pores?
A blackhead typically appears in a dilated pore, but a dilated pore does not always lead to the formation of a blackhead! To differentiate them, pay attention to the colour. Unlike blackheads, dilated pores appear rather greyish or pinkish and importantly, they do not have a small black pinhead. If you ever squeeze a dilated pore in an attempt to extract sebum (which we do not recommend!), unlike a blackhead, nothing will happen.
Which treatments should be used against blackheads and enlarged pores?
If you are prone to these skin imperfections, we recommend you to favour skincare products containing anti-seborrheic ingredients (zinc, niacinamide, azelaic acid, green clay...) as well as products with active ingredients that have keratolytic effects (glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, PHA).
We have designed for you a blackhead and enlarged pore facial routine, containing the following six products.
Thepeppermint hydrosolhelps to unclog your pores in case of excess sebum. These are tightened and your skin barrier is strengthened. This hydrosol also regulates excess sebum and helps to avoid the oily and shiny appearance of acne-prone skin.
Thematifying serumhighly concentrated in azelaic acid (10%) helps to regulate sebum production for a mattified skin appearance.
The purifying face cream Zinc PCA 4% + bamboo extract is enriched with sebum-regulating and antibacterial agents. It purifies the skin and combats skin imperfections. It can be used morning and evening.
Themicellar water has been designed solely from ingredients essential to its function. Any superfluous element has been discarded. It consists of only 7 ingredients. As a reminder, makeup removal is crucial in the case of blackheads and enlarged pores.
Theglycolic acid serumhelps to remove sebum for smoother and more unified skin. It should only be applied in the evening. Note, it does not need to be rinsed off! Initial uses may cause slight redness as the skin adjusts to the molecule. These effects fade after several uses. However, it is not recommended for sensitive skin.
Thepurifying botanical blend contains hazelnut oil with sebum-regulating virtues as well as 6 other botanical extracts. It is more of a night serum, to be used in place of one's usual cream.
Sources:
CHUNG K. & al. Sebum output as a factor contributing to the size of facial pores. British Journal of Dermatology (2006).
SEO S. J. & al. Facial pores: definition, causes, and treatment options. Dermatologic Surgery (2015).
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