Which combinations of active ingredients are beneficial alongside squalane?

The hyaluronic acid is a molecule naturally found in the skin, celebrated for its remarkable ability to bind water – up to 1,000 times its weight depending on its molecular weight. It preserves skin suppleness and firmness while supporting the cohesion of the extracellular matrix. However, with age or environmental aggressors, its concentration in the skin diminishes, resulting in reduced elasticity and hydration. This is why an external supply of hyaluronic acid may be beneficial.

Although there are no studies specifically examining the synergy between the squalane and hyaluronic acid, data from similar formulations demonstrate that their combination is complementary. Squalane, as an emollient, forms a protective film on the skin’s surface that limits water evaporation and supports the skin barrier. Hyaluronic acid, conversely, acts upstream as a humectant: it attracts and retains water in the superficial layers of the epidermis. This association is suitable for all skin types, particularly dehydrated, compromised or mature skin.

When used together, hyaluronic acid and squalane offer the skin complete hydration, the former by capturing it and the latter by sealing it within the epidermis.

The collagen is an essential structural protein of the skin, conferring firmness, elasticity and strength. When applied topically, collagen does not act at depth, as this molecule is too large to penetrate the skin barrier. Instead, it forms a protective film on the skin surface, limiting dehydration. Some studies, however, suggest that hydrolysed collagen peptides, smaller in size, may partially traverse the stratum corneum and stimulate endogenous collagen synthesis.

Although no study has specifically examined the combination of squalane and collagen in topical treatments, their effects are broadly comparable and both support the hydrolipidic film. Moreover, they exhibit excellent skin tolerance and pose no compatibility issues in formulation.

The vitamin C is an indispensable active ingredient in cosmetics, renowned for its antioxidant properties, its ability to stimulate collagen synthesis and its role in evening out skin tone and reducing signs of skin ageing. When applied topically, it helps protect the skin against free radicals and promotes extracellular matrix regeneration. Vitamin C can also enhance skin radiance and reduce the appearance of pigmented spots.

Although no direct study has been conducted on the squalane–vitamin C association, research on squalene, which is very similar to squalane, indicates that their combination may provide synergistic benefits. One study evaluated a vitamin C–squalene bioconjugate applied to human skin explants over 10 days. The results showed that this combination significantly enhances the penetration of vitamin C into the skin and its biological effects.

This study shows that combining vitamin C with a lipid such as squalene improves its stability and penetration, enabling an increase in epidermal thickness and enhanced production of type III collagen and TIMP1, thereby exerting a protective effect on the extracellular matrix of the dermis. It can be hypothesised that squalane, with a chemical structure similar to that of squalene, could play a similar role, although further scientific studies are required to confirm this.

Squalane and vitamin C are both present in our tinted serums.

Plant oils, such as sweet almond oil, rosehip oil or olive oil, are rich in fatty acids, such as linoleic acid, and are known for their emollient, nourishing and protective properties. They help maintain skin hydration, reinforce the hydrolipidic film and support the skin barrier, benefits that echo those provided by squalane. There is no incompatibility between squalane and plant oils: when combined in a formulation, they can work synergistically to nourish the skin, improve its suppleness and protect it against external aggressions.

Our emollient lip oils contain squalane and various plant oils (jojoba oil, plum oil, apricot oil and sunflower oil).

The glycerine, or glycerol, is a highly effective humectant. Thanks to its three hydroxyl groups (–OH), it is able to diffuse into the stratum corneum and attract water from the dermis or the environment, thus helping to maintain skin hydration. It also contributes to improving the barrier function by plasticising the stratum corneum and forming a pseudo-occlusive film, limiting transepidermal water loss and increasing skin softness. This action is complementary to that of squalane, which nourishes and strengthens the hydrolipidic film. Although there is no specific clinical study on this combination, squalane and glycerine are compatible and can be used together to optimise skin hydration.

Squalane and glycerine are both present in our tinted serums.

Urea is a recognised moisturising and keratolytic agent in dermatology and cosmetics. It draws in and retains water within the skin, helping to maintain epidermal hydration while promoting the removal of dead cells from the skin surface. Its properties make it especially beneficial for dry or rough skin, which requires both nourishment and support for skin renewal. When combined with squalane—an ingredient that nourishes and reinforces the hydrolipidic film—urea can help to effectively restore comfort and hydration to dry skin.

A study assessed the effect of an emollient combining squalane, ceramides and 5% urea on the skin barrier of elderly patients suffering from severe xerosis. Twenty-one participants over the age of 60 applied the cream to one forearm for 28 days, the other forearm serving as an untreated control. After this period, skin measurements revealed a marked improvement in hydration, barrier function and overall skin condition in the treated area compared with the control area, highlighting the benefit of combining squalane and urea for dry, fragile skin.

The retinoids, whether it is retinol, retinaldehyde or retinoic acids, are active ingredients recognised in dermatology for their effects on skin regeneration, wrinkle reduction, improvement of pigment spots and reduction of imperfections. However, certain retinoids can cause irritation and skin dryness during initial uses or at higher concentrations. Combining squalane, which is highly nourishing, with a retinoid-containing treatment enables you to limit the drying effects of retinoids, whilst still benefiting from their many advantages.

The bakuchiol is a plant-derived active ingredient renowned for its effects on wrinkles, imperfections and pigmentation spots. As a lipophilic compound, bakuchiol is incorporated into the oil phase of formulations, making it perfectly compatible with squalane. Combining these two active ingredients complements the nourishing and protective properties of squalane with the regenerative benefits of bakuchiol.

A study evaluated the efficacy of a treatment combining bakuchiol and squalane on 30 volunteers presenting visible signs of skin ageing. Participants applied the product twice daily for eight weeks, and several skin parameters were measured before and after application: hydration, elasticity and wrinkle appearance. The results demonstrate a notable improvement in hydration and elasticity, as well as a visible reduction in wrinkle depth.

These results confirm that bakuchiol and squalane can be combined synergistically.

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), such as glycolic acid, lactic acid or even mandelic acid, are frequently used for their exfoliating properties and their ability to stimulate cellular renewal and improve skin texture and radiance. By promoting the shedding of dead cells, they also help to smooth the skin’s surface and reduce pigmentation spots and fine lines. Although no specific study has examined the synergy between squalane and AHAs, these two ingredient groups are compatible. Their combination can even prove relevant, as squalane helps to offset dryness and irritation that AHAs can sometimes cause, particularly after exfoliation.

The salicylic acid is a lipid-soluble beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) known for its keratolytic, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. It works by gently exfoliating the skin’s surface while penetrating the pores to dissolve excess sebum and impurities, making it a reference active ingredient for skin prone to imperfections and blackheads. As with AHAs, no studies have explored the potential synergy between squalane and salicylic acid. However, these two actives are not incompatible, and it is reasonable to assume that squalane could help reinforce the skin barrier and counteract dryness that salicylic acid can sometimes cause, thereby improving its tolerability.

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