Peeling skin after a tanning session: which measures should be adopted?

Exfoliation is a natural skin regeneration process that normally occurs every 28 days. It allows the skin to eliminate dead cells, known as corneocytes, from its surface and shed them as flakes. This phenomenon is normally invisible to the naked eye. However, it is not uncommon after a tanning session to observe an excessive exfoliation. It is a skin defence and restoration process whose hydration has been significantly disrupted following sun exposure.

Indeed, the UV rays weaken the skin barrier on multiple levels. They damage the hydrolipidic film, the protective veil composed of sebum and sweat that maintains the skin’s hydration, and induce the formation of free radicals in epidermal cells. These radicals specifically target the lipids of the stratum corneum, particularly unsaturated fatty acids, whose double bonds are prone to oxidation. This phenomenon, known as lipid peroxidation, disrupts membrane structure and reduces cohesion between cells. Consequently, the stratum corneum becomes more permeable and allows more water to escape. The skin dries out, feels tight, and then peels.

Peeling after a tanning session is therefore the result of skin dehydration combined with an accelerated repair process.

When the skin begins to peel after tanning, the very first reaction is to restore its water and lipid balance. To achieve this, we recommend applying a cream or balm twice a day to compensate for water loss resulting from the compromised skin barrier. It is advisable to choose formulations containing both humectants, such as glycerine or hyaluronic acid, which attract moisture from the environment and retain it in the stratum corneum, and emollients, which soften the skin by filling the gaps between the corneocytes. To halt skin flaking, using plant oils and butters, such as shea butter and avocado oil, may also be beneficial. This will help reinforce the hydrolipidic film and reduce feelings of tightness.

To help prevent and counteract skin peeling after tanning, we also recommend applying an after-sun.

Hydrating, re-lipidising, soothing... The after-sun products provide numerous benefits for the skin and can help when the skin is peeling. Their cooling texture immediately soothes overheated skin, while their richness in re-lipidising and hydrating agents helps to restore the skin barrier compromised by UV exposure. Some after-sun products also contain anti-inflammatory actives, such as aloe vera or panthenol, capable of calming redness and limiting inflammation related to oxidative stress. These hydrating and soothing effects of after-sun products allow them to prevent and mitigate skin desquamation, which also helps to prolong the tan.

When the skin begins to peel after an intense sun exposure, it is not uncommon to experience sensations of heat, tightness or itching. In this context, the application of cold compresses is a soothing measure that provides immediate relief. Cold exerts a vasoconstrictive effect, meaning it temporarily narrows superficial blood vessels, thereby limiting the circulation of inflammatory mediators in the skin tissues. This contributes to reducing erythema, the feeling of warmth and the minor itching caused by post-UV inflammation. A cold compress can be applied several times a day, but should not replace moisturising care, which is essential for skin regeneration.

However, take care not to apply a cold compress directly to peeling skin, as this could further compromise its structural integrity. It is preferable to wrap the compress in a clean cloth.

When the skin begins to peel after a tanning session, this indicates that it has undergone a significant disruption of its skin barrier. This visible peeling reflects a loss of adhesion between corneocytes, caused by inflammation induced by UV radiation. In response, the skin activates multiple repair mechanisms, resulting in the accelerated elimination of dead cells. During this regeneration phase, the skin is extremely vulnerable. Resuming sun exposure, even with protection, would subject it to further damage that could prolong the peeling.

If your skin peels in response to sunlight, this indicates cutaneous damage. It is therefore advisable to avoid further exposure and allow it time to regenerate.

If you still wish to enjoy the fine weather, we recommend opting for clothing covering yet breathable : long-sleeved shirts, loose trousers, cotton or linen fabrics and a wide-brimmed hat to protect your face will be your allies. At the same time, a broad-spectrum sunscreen. Contrary to some misconceptions, it is not harmful to apply sunscreen to peeling skin, provided you choose a gentle, alcohol-free and fragrance-free formula suitable for sensitive or compromised skin.

To avoid further weakening skin that is peeling, it is advisable to avoid very hot showers, a recommendation that actually applies at all times. Hot water tends to disrupt the hydrolipidic film, to exacerbate insensible water loss and to impede the restoration of the skin barrier. A study published in 2022 specifically examined the effect of exposure to hot water on barrier function in the skin of 50 volunteers. The results showed that hot water significantly increased transepidermal water loss, with TEWL rising from 25.75 g·h⁻¹·m⁻² to 58.58 g·h⁻¹·m⁻², and caused redness. By comparison, cold water had a lesser impact, only slightly raising TEWL from 25.75 g·h⁻¹·m⁻² to 34.96 g·h⁻¹·m⁻², and did not produce any significant effect on erythema.

Repeated or prolonged exposure to hot water impairs the skin’s barrier function, even more so when it is already compromised and peels after sun exposure.

Under normal circumstances, it is beneficial to exfoliate the skin. This practice promotes cell renewal, enhances complexion radiance and optimises the absorption of active agents. However, when the skin is peeling after sunburn or prolonged exposure, it is strongly recommended to pause this routine temporarily. Indeed, the desquamation following tanning is not comparable to the mere removal of accumulated dead cells: it constitutes a reparative process during which altered keratinocytes are eliminated by the epidermis. In this context, performing a scrub, whether mechanical, enzymatic or chemical, risks stripping already fragile skin, and exacerbating local inflammation. While it does remove flaking scales, it also prematurely removes cells still necessary for restoring the skin barrier.

It is best to wait until the skin has finished peeling and fully regenerated before resuming exfoliation.

When skin peels, there is often a temptation to manually remove dead skin. However, it is best to refrain, lest you end up with red, irritated skin that will take even longer to heal. Manually removing the scales amounts to interrupting the skin’s natural repair process. The small dead skin flakes on the surface of the epidermis will shed on their own within a few days, giving way to fresh, healthy skin.

• REED J. C. & al. Sunburned skin activates inflammasomes. Trends in Cell Biology (2008).

• RICHTER K. & al. Oxidative stress in aging human skin. Biomolecules (2015).

• TFAYLI A. & al. Studying the effects of suberythemal UV doses on human stratum corneum by in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy. European Journal of Dermatology (2022).

• ARIAS-SANTIAGO S. & al. Impact of water exposure and temperature changes on skin barrier function. Journal of Clinical Medicine (2022).