Niacinamide: Which active ingredients should it be combined with?

Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is one of the most widely used skincare actives due to its multiple skin benefits. By stimulating ceramide synthesis in the stratum corneum, it helps strengthen the intercellular lipid matrix and reduces transepidermal water loss. As a result, niacinamide improves moisture retention and enhances the skin’s barrier function. In addition to this protective role, niacinamide is a well-known anti-inflammatory. Its effects are mediated by inhibition of the PARP-1 enzyme, which downregulates the NF-kB and MAPK pathways, reducing the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines such as IL-1β, IL-6, and TNF-α. This makes it especially suitable for sensitive or redness-prone skin.

Moreover, niacinamide can help delay the onset of fine lines and dark spots. It increases intracellular levels of NAD(H) and NADP(H), antioxidant cofactors that decline with age. This leads to greater protection against oxidative stress and improved DNA repair. Niacinamide also boosts the production of collagen and structural proteins like filaggrin. Its depigmenting action is based on its ability to inhibit melanosome transfer to keratinocytes, which helps even out the complexion. Finally, niacinamide reduces excessive sebum production and acts against Cutibacterium acnes, the bacterium involved in acne pathogenesis. It is therefore appreciated by oily and acne-prone skin types.

Combining niacinamide with retinol helps optimize the latter's effects while improving skin tolerance. Retinol is widely recognized for its anti-aging properties and ability to enhance skin texture, but its use is often limited by irritation and dryness. Thanks to its barrier-strengthening, anti-inflammatory, and hydrating properties, niacinamide can reduce the sensitivity often caused by retinol. At the same time, it enhances retinol’s effects on skin tone uniformity, fine lines, and blemishes, making this duo particularly synergistic.

A ten-week study involving 25 participants with an average age of 53—who had moderate hyperpigmentation and visible signs of skin aging—evaluated a product containing 0.5% retinol, 4.4% niacinamide, 1% resveratrol, and 1.1% hexylresorcinol. The product was applied at night only. Participants also used a cleanser, hydrating serum, moisturizer, and SPF 30 sunscreen during the day. At the end of the study, researchers observed significant improvements in fine lines, pigmentation, and skin smoothness. The formulation was well tolerated, and the study concluded that combining niacinamide and retinol within a complete skincare routine—including hydration and photoprotection—is highly beneficial.

Note: Niacinamide is also commonly paired with tretinoin (a prescription-only retinoid) to achieve similar results.

While some claim niacinamide and vitamin C shouldn’t be used together, this combination can be highly effective for addressing pigmentation disorders. Vitamin C directly inhibits tyrosinase activity (the enzyme involved in melanin synthesis) and neutralizes free radicals responsible for oxidative stress. Meanwhile, niacinamide slows the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes and helps even skin tone. Together, they target both the formation and dispersion of pigment, enhance skin radiance, and reduce oxidative stress-related skin sagging.

In a comparative study, a depigmenting product containing niacinamide and vitamin C was tested against a 4% hydroquinone cream (a professional-use depigmenting agent). Each formulation was applied to one side of the face, morning and evening. After one month, the niacinamide + vitamin C combination resulted in a 27% improvement in hyperpigmentation. Furthermore, 88.2% of treated areas were rated as equal to or better than those treated with hydroquinone. No adverse effects were reported with the niacinamide + vitamin C formula, unlike hydroquinone, which caused one participant to drop out due to severe intolerance. The niacinamide-based formula also caused less irritation and even reduced redness in some subjects.

The niacinamide + caffeine duo is particularly useful for treating the delicate eye contour area. Each ingredient brings complementary properties. Niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier, improves elasticity, and supports ceramide synthesis, helping the skin become smoother and more resilient. Caffeine is known for its vasoconstrictive and draining effects. By stimulating blood and lymphatic microcirculation, it reduces puffiness and dark circles. Additionally, like niacinamide, caffeine has antioxidant activity, offering extra protection to the sensitive eye area.

The combination of niacinamide and salicylic acid (also known as BHA, or beta hydroxy acid) is especially effective for addressing pigmentation disorders like melasma, as well as for oily or combination skin. Salicylic acid is lipophilic and can penetrate pores, where it exerts gentle keratolytic, anti-inflammatory, and comedolytic effects—making it ideal for unclogging pores and smoothing skin texture. Thanks to its exfoliating action, salicylic acid also helps reduce dark spots, especially when paired with niacinamide.

A multicenter, randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial involving 300 participants with melasma evaluated the effect of a product containing 30% salicylic acid and 10% niacinamide over 16 weeks. The results showed a significant reduction in pigmentation lesions, as measured by the modified MASI score, compared to placebo. This effect was observed across the entire face. The combination was well tolerated, with minimal side effects, confirming the synergy of niacinamide and BHA for improving skin tone and texture.

If you frequently experience breakouts or have oily skin, combining niacinamide with zinc may be beneficial. Zinc offers anti-inflammatory, sebum-regulating, and antibacterial properties. It helps reduce the growth of Cutibacterium acnes, limits surface lipid oxidation, and supports epidermal repair. Niacinamide complements this by regulating sebum production, strengthening the skin barrier, and soothing inflammation. Together, they help calm flare-ups and prevent recurrence by rebalancing the skin microbiome and sebum synthesis. However, it should be noted that to date, no clinical studies have been conducted specifically on the niacinamide + zinc combination.

The combination of niacinamide and copper is attracting growing interest in cosmetics, especially for mature skin. Copper, often in the form of peptides, plays a role in various processes related to skin regeneration. Studies have shown that this ingredient can stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis, promote wound healing, and exert antioxidant activity—useful for preventing skin aging. Therefore, pairing copper with niacinamide appears relevant, as niacinamide helps protect the skin barrier and defends the skin against oxidative stress. It would be interesting for future clinical studies to explore the potential synergy between niacinamide and copper.

The combination of niacinamide and glycolic acid —an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) known for its exfoliating properties—is particularly promising for caring for skin prone to blemishes and enlarged pores. Glycolic acid works by reducing the cohesion of corneocytes, which facilitates the removal of dead skin cells on the surface of the epidermis. This keratolytic action promotes cell turnover and unclogs pores while improving skin texture. Niacinamide, on the other hand, helps soothe inflammation and strengthen the skin barrier, helping to reduce the side effects sometimes associated with AHAs, such as dryness or redness.

A two-month prospective study involving 25 women aged 14 to 30 with mild acne showed significant improvement in skin condition following the daily application of a gel containing, among other ingredients, niacinamide and glycolic acid. The results highlighted an 80% reduction in acne lesions after 8 weeks, along with a notable improvement in acne severity scores (GAGS). Although the product contained multiple actives, the niacinamide/glycolic acid combination likely contributed to the effects by reducing inflammation, follicular hyperkeratinization, and pigmentation changes, as observed through colorimetry. Furthermore, the study showed that the skin barrier function—measured by transepidermal water loss (TEWL)—was preserved, indicating good tolerance despite the use of an AHA.

Combining niacinamide with azelaic acid is another smart choice for blemish-prone skin. Azelaic acid is known for its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and mattifying properties. It works by inhibiting the proliferation of Cutibacterium acnesand modulating hyperkeratinization—both key factors in acne pathophysiology. Therefore, combining azelaic acid and niacinamide could be an effective way to target multiple causes of skin imperfections without compromising the skin’s integrity.

Pairing niacinamide with hyaluronic acid brings together biological efficacy and comfort. While niacinamide helps protect the skin barrier, hyaluronic acid is known for its powerful humectant properties and ability to retain up to 1,000 times its weight in water, intensely hydrating the epidermis and visibly plumping the skin. This combination is particularly relevant for fragile, dehydrated, or mature skin.

A clinical study assessed this synergy using a formula containing 6% niacinamide, 0.1% high molecular weight hyaluronic acid (>1 MDa), and 0.1% medium molecular weight fragments (~120 kDa). In 44 women aged 38 to 55 with sensitive skin, uneven complexion, and fine lines, daily application of the product for 8 weeks led to significant results. After one month, skin radiance increased by 21%, reaching 44% after two months. Skin softness improved in 64% of participants after 4 weeks and in 95% after 8 weeks. Additionally, there was an average 15% reduction in fine lines. These results suggest that the niacinamide–hyaluronic acid combination can improve multiple skin parameters—especially when various hyaluronic acid molecular weights are used.

Combining niacinamide and vitamin E is a complementary strategy to protect and strengthen the skin against environmental aggressors. While niacinamide offers multifunctional benefits on the skin barrier, pigmentation, inflammation, and hydration, vitamin E—often in the form of tocopherols—acts as a lipophilic antioxidant capable of neutralizing free radicals produced in response to UV, pollution, or oxidative stress. This synergy makes particular sense in formulations designed to combat environmental stressors such as UV rays, pollution, and tobacco smoke.

A cosmetic formula containing 4% niacinamide and 0.2% vitamin E, also enriched with hyaluronic acid (0.4%) and postbiotic fractions, was tested in a clinical study involving 22 volunteers. The study found that the product accelerated skin barrier regeneration after mechanical and thermal stress. The addition of hyaluronic acid, previously discussed, provided immediate and lasting hydration, while niacinamide and vitamin E helped strengthen the skin’s antioxidant defenses. The formula also helped restore the skin microbiome more quickly after using a harsh cleanser and reduced visible signs of stress on the skin, including dullness, pigmentation spots, and tightness.

The combination of niacinamide with arbutin acid, also known as alpha-arbutin, is aligned with the goal of regulating skin pigmentation—particularly useful in cases of dark spots or melasma. While niacinamide inhibits the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes, alpha-arbutin acts upstream in the process by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, the key enzyme in melanogenesis.

A study conducted in Indonesia involving 66 female patients with melasma evaluated the effectiveness of a formulation containing 4% niacinamide, 2% arbutin acid, and 2% Galactomyces ferment, known for its soothing properties. Participants applied a serum followed by a cream containing these active ingredients for four weeks. The severity of melasma was assessed using a clinical severity score (MSS) and an image analysis system to quantify dermal and epidermal pigmentation. After just two weeks, a significant reduction in the MSS score was observed, from 1.65 to 1.33. Similarly, pigmentation decreased by 22.6% after one month. Thus, combining niacinamide and arbutin acid appears to be relevant for evening skin tone and reducing pigmentation spots.

Another useful pairing is niacinamide and collagen. Niacinamide stimulates collagen production by fibroblasts, while topically applied collagen forms a moisturizing film on the skin’s surface to reduce transepidermal water loss and help maintain skin hydration. When hydrolyzed collagen peptides are used, some studies suggest they may penetrate deeper into the skin and stimulate endogenous collagen synthesis. Therefore, combining niacinamide and collagen in the same formulation could help both reinforce skin hydration and support the dermal structure, leading to skin that is more supple, firmer, and more elastic.

Pairing niacinamide with kojic acid is another strategy sometimes used to address hyperpigmentation. Kojic acid inhibits tyrosinase by chelating copper ions essential to its catalytic activity, thereby slowing down pigment formation at the early stages of the process. Niacinamide acts further downstream by limiting melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes, thus reducing pigment dispersion within the epidermis.

In a 12-week study involving women with melasma, a serum combining 5% niacinamide, 1% kojic acid, and 3% tranexamic acid showed significant results as early as the second week. Clinical and instrumental evaluations revealed a marked reduction in dark spots, as well as noticeable improvement in skin texture and tone uniformity. These results suggest that the niacinamide/kojic acid combination—potentially with tranexamic acid, another depigmenting agent—could be an effective option.

As kojic acid is a suspected endocrine disruptor, we do not use it at Typology.

The niacinamide and benzoyl peroxide duo represents a complementary approach in managing mild to moderate acne, especially when balancing efficacy and skin tolerance. Benzoyl peroxyde is a well-known antibacterial agent that also reduces follicular obstruction, helping to decrease both inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions. However, it may cause side effects such as irritation or skin dryness.

Adding 5% niacinamide to a formula with 2.5% benzoyl peroxide can help modulate these effects. In a 12-week comparative study involving 21 participants who applied the combination on one side of their face and a control (benzoyl peroxide alone) on the other, this combination showed a significant reduction in the total number of acne lesions—particularly non-inflammatory ones—as well as a faster decrease in sebum production compared to the control. Niacinamide also demonstrated a protective effect against post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation: unlike in the benzoyl peroxide-only group, post-acne pigmentation did not increase significantly with the combination, suggesting a modulating effect on melanin production in inflammatory contexts.

Combining niacinamide with mandelic acid allows for a synergistic action on various skin concerns: uneven texture, enlarged pores, pigmentation spots, and imperfections linked to hyperkeratinization. Mandelic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from bitter almonds, is characterized by its high molecular weight, which limits penetration and makes its exfoliating effect gentler compared to other AHAs like glycolic acid. It promotes cell turnover, unclogs pores at the surface, and gradually refines skin texture while minimizing the risk of irritation. When combined with niacinamide, it becomes particularly suitable for combination, acne-prone, and sensitive skin types.

Lastly, niacinamide can be paired with glutathione, a tripeptide naturally present in the skin, known for its ability to modulate melanin synthesis by inhibiting tyrosinase and promoting a shift in melanogenesis toward the production of lighter pheomelanin. Since niacinamide also has depigmenting properties, this combination appears theoretically relevant. Moreover, like niacinamide, glutathione has antioxidant effects. This pairing—yet to be studied thoroughly in vivo—could offer an interesting option for dull skin or spot-prone skin.

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