Limiting cell oxidation and soothing inflammation, niacinamide is the ally of skin with imperfections and prone to redness. It also reinforces the hydrolipidic film and limits insensible water loss, fighting against dehydration wrinkles. Moreover, it is effective to attenuate the pigmentary spots. To multiply its effects, it can be combined with other components. Which ones?
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Niacinamide: What Active Ingredients Should It Be Combined With?
Summary
- Niacinamide in Cosmetics
- Niacinamide + Retinol
- Niacinamide + Vitamin C
- Niacinamide + Caffeine
- Niacinamide + Salicylic acid
- Sources
Published November 15, 2021,
updated on February 29, 2024,
by
Maylis, Chemical Engineer
—
5 min read
Niacinamide in Cosmetics.
Niacinamide is a water-soluble compound derived from vitamin B3. It is essential to the body because it is involved in the metabolic pathways related to energy transfer within cells. It is essential to regularly provide it to the body via the diet to remain in good health.
When applied topically, niacinamide is full of benefits to take care of both dry and dehydrated skin, but also oily skin with or without imperfections. Indeed, this vitamin activates the synthesis of lipids and thus reinforces the hydrolipidic film and the barrier function of the skin. The loss of transepidermal water decreases and the epidermis remains hydrated longer, avoiding the appearance of fine lines of dehydration.
Niacinamide also regulates the production of sebum and mattifies the zones of brilliance of oily skin. This function also allows to fight against the appearance of blackheads and comedones. In addition, its antioxidant power helps the skin to defend itself against attacks by free radicals generated by all sorts of factors such as pollution, smoking ... Niacinamide thus fights against premature cutaneous aging.
A gentle active ingredient that is very well tolerated by all skin types, niacinamide has the advantage of being compatible with the majority of cosmetic active ingredients, including the most sensitive substances such as retinol, peptides, hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid and vitamin C.
Niacinamide + Retinol.
Niacinamide is a gentle active ingredient that is well tolerated by all skin types. Retinol, on the other hand, is more drying and can cause irritation for people with sensitive or atopic skin. The combination of these two active ingredients is safe and has several advantages. Niacinamide makes it possible to fight against the drying effect of retinol and maintains a good rate of hydration in the skin thanks to its reinforcing action on the hydrolipidic film.
The retinol/niacinamide combo is particularly suitable for people with wrinkles and imperfections. Indeed, retinol will stimulate the synthesis of collagen and elastin. The skin will be smoother and wrinkles less visible. At the same time, niacinamide will regulate the production of sebum and inhibit the proliferation of P. acnes, the main bacteria involved in acne outbreaks.
In the evening only, on a clean and dry face, we advise you to first apply a few drops of the unifying serum (niacinamide 12%), then a few drops of the wrinkles & fine lines serum (retinol 0.3%).
Niacinamide + Vitamin C.
To reduce skin inflammation and brighten the complexion, these two active ingredients can be combined during your skin care routine. Biologically, they act differently to limit the appearance of brown spots: vitamin C inhibits tyrosinase, an enzyme necessary for the production of melanin, while niacinamide blocks the transfer of pigments into cells.
Regarding application, there is no preferred order for applying these two active ingredients to your skin. Choose the product with the lightest, most fluid texture first. Thus, a serum is generally applied before a cream with a higher viscosity. For example, for a luminous, smooth and even complexion, we recommend applying the unifying serum with 12% niacinamide morning and night, followed by the antioxidant face cream with vitamin C and lemon extract.
Niacinamide + Caffeine.
These two active ingredients are particularly interesting when combined in the same care product to fight against dark circles and puffiness. Indeed, caffeine and niacinamide are decongesting active ingredients that activate blood microcirculation. Thus, the eye serum caffeine 5% + niacinamide 5% helps reduce the appearance of blue circles and bags under the eyes, for a more luminous look.
Niacinamide + Salicylic acid.
A study showed that when niacinamide was combined with salicylic acid in a skin care product, the permeability of the hydrolipidic film was enhanced, thus reducing insensible water loss, i.e. skin dehydration. To take advantage of these benefits, during your evening routine, after cleansing your skin, you can apply the purifying toner with a cotton pad all over your face before using the niacinamide 12% unifying serum.
Sources
WAN Y. & al. Nicotinamide attenuates aquaporin 3 overexpression induced by retinoic acid through inhibition of EGFR/ERK in cultured human skin keratinocytes. International Journal of Molecular Medicine (2008).
GARG K.V. & al. Cosmeceuticals for Hyperpigmentation: What is Available ? Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery (2013).
Cristina Padula, Chiara Ferretti, Sara Nicoli, Patrizia Santi, Combined Patch Containing Salicylic Acid and Nicotinamide: Role of Drug Interaction, Current Drug Delivery, (2010).
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