How is coconut oil beneficial for dry skin?

Dry skin is characterised by a reduction in lipids present in the stratum corneum and by an alteration of the barrier function of the epidermis. This situation leads to an increase in transepidermal water loss, responsible for sensations of tightness, roughness or even flaking. In addition to a genetic predisposition, several factors can contribute to this skin dryness : exposure to cold or wind, frequent washing, the use of harsh cleansing products, or skin ageing. When the lipid barrier of the skin is weakened, the epidermis becomes more vulnerable to external aggressions and struggles to maintain an optimal level of hydration.

Coconut oil can be an interesting addition to a skincare routine for dry skin.

Indeed, this vegetable oil, rich in triglycerides, has emollient properties and a rich texture that enables it to reinforce the hydrolipidic film of the skin. When applied topically, coconut oil forms an occlusive film on the surface of the epidermis that slows down water loss, a very relevant mechanism for dry skin, in which the skin barrier is often impaired. Several scientific studies have examined the effects of coconut oil on hydration and the barrier function of dry skin, and have highlighted its usefulness.

A clinical study assessed the effectiveness of coconut oil in moisturising the skin of 34 individuals with mild to moderate xerosis. They were divided into two groups and applied either coconut oil or mineral oil to their legs twice daily for two weeks. The researchers measured skin hydration using a corneometer and the amount of lipids on the skin surface using a sebumeter. The results showed that both oils significantly improved skin hydration and increased lipid levels, suggesting a partial restoration of the skin barrier. Clinical assessment of dryness symptoms — such as scaling, roughness or itching — also showed improvement in participants from both groups, which was slightly greater in the group that used coconut oil.

These data therefore support the idea that coconut oil may be an interesting option for improving hydration and comfort in dry skin.

This study is not an isolated case. Other research has examined the potential value of coconut oil in skin conditions where dryness and impairment of the skin barrier play a central role, such as atopic dermatitis. One notable example is a 2013 study involving 117 patients with eczema, who were divided into two groups. The first group applied virgin coconut oil, while the second used mineral oil for eight weeks. The researchers assessed changes in disease severity using the SCORAD index (SCORing of Atopic Dermatitis), as well as several parameters related to skin barrier function, in particular transepidermal water loss and skin hydration measured by capacitance.

The results showed a significant improvement in both groups, but the effects observed with coconut oil were clearly more pronounced.

The SCORAD index decreased on average by 68.23% in the group treated with coconut oil, compared with 38.13% in the group given mineral oil. In addition, transepidermal water loss markedly decreased in the “coconut oil” group (falling on average from 26.68 to 7.09), while skin hydration increased significantly. Coconut oil therefore appears able to improve skin barrier function, even in individuals with atopic eczema, a dermatosis characterised by pronounced skin dryness.

Available studies suggest that coconut oil may be beneficial for dry skin.

However, used on its own, it cannot truly replace a moisturising product specifically formulated for this particular skin type. Creams designed for dry skin are in fact based on the combination of several complementary ingredients: humectants, which are capable of attracting water into the stratum corneum, emollients, which soften the skin and help to restore the lipid organisation of the stratum corneum, and film-forming agents that reduce water evaporation. Coconut oil acts mainly as an emollient and an occlusive agent, but it does not provide hydration in itself.

Even though products designed for dry skin generally contain more lipids than those formulated for oily skin, the presence of an aqueous phase and humectant agents remains essential to maintain an adequate level of skin hydration. In this context, coconut oil can be used as a valuable adjunct rather than as a substitute for a moisturising cream. Applied at the end of the skincare routine, after the moisturising product, it can help to lock in moisture by strengthening the hydrolipidic film and limiting water loss. This provides both complete hydration and nourishment.

• VERALLO-ROWELL V. M. & al. A randomized double-blind controlled trial comparing extra virgin coconut oil with mineral oil as a moisturizer for mild to moderate xerosis. Dermatology (2004).

• EVANGELISTA M. T. P. & al. The effect of topical virgin coconut oil on SCORAD index, transepidermal water loss, and skin capacitance in mild to moderate pediatric atopic dermatitis: A randomized, double-blind, clinical trial. International Journal of Dermatology (2014).

• KAPADIYA P. K. & al. Medicinal benefits of coconut oil. International Journal of Life Sciences Research (2014).

• SODIKIN M. & al. The effectiveness of massage and virgin coconut oil (VCO) combination therapy on reducing itching in diabetes mellitus. Jurnal Kesehatan Komunitas Indonesia (2023).

• GEW L. T. & al. A comprehensive review of plant-based cosmetic oils (virgin coconut oil, olive oil, argan oil, and jojoba oil): Chemical and biological properties and their cosmeceutical applications. ACS Omega (2024).