When applied topically, zinc provides several benefits to the skin. It is included in the composition of certain skin care products in various forms such as zinc oxide, zinc gluconate, or zinc PCA. Which other active ingredients can it be combined with to enhance its effects?
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The combinations of beneficial actives for the skin with zinc.
Summary
- Zinc and Niacinamide, a relevant combination to combat spots
- Zinc oxide and iron oxide, the optimal combination for filtering UV rays
- Azelaic Acid and Zinc to combat oily skin
- Sources
Published December 5, 2022,
updated on July 2, 2024,
by
Maylis, Chemical Engineer
—
5 min read
Zinc and Niacinamide, a relevant combination to combat spots
In 2018, a study demonstrated that a formula containing vitamin B3 (niacinamide), a derivative of vitamin B6 (pyridoxine tris-hexyldecanoate), and zinc PCA reduced the number of mild inflammatory acne lesions without disrupting the skin barrier. Therefore, the combination of effective active ingredients in a single formulation appears to be a promising dermocosmetic product to be used as an adjunct for the treatment of inflammatory acne as well as for the control of acne-prone skin.
The combination of zinc PCA and vitamins B3 and B6, delivered in an appropriate topical formulation, can be considered a safe and effective alternative treatment for mild inflammatory acne-prone skin.
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Zinc oxide and iron oxide, the optimal combination for filtering UV rays.
Zinc oxide is a mineral (physical/inorganic) sunscreen, which means it protects the skin from UVA and UVB rays by reflecting and scattering light. It is increasingly being used as an alternative to chemical sunscreens (also known as organic), some of which are recognised endocrine disruptors.
Iron oxide is not an approved sunscreen, but it is often added to mineral sunscreens to reduce the white cast. The addition of iron oxide to sunscreens also broadens the UV protection of mineral sun protection agents to the longer spectra of UVA and visible light. More specifically, when iron oxide is combined with zinc oxide, it can reduce the amount of UVA rays capable of penetrating the skin to 1.5%.
Visible light, particularly high-energy visible light (HEV), accounts for approximately 39 to 44% of total solar radiation and penetrates the skin in the same way as UV radiation. Like UV radiation, visible light can also lead to the production of free radicals, which accelerate skin ageing and the appearance of brown spots. A study has shown that, during sun exposure, visible light accounted for 33% of free radical production, while UV radiation accounted for 67%.
Some research suggests that iron oxide can enhance the overall sun protection provided by zinc oxide sunscreens by absorbing all wavelengths of visible light. This is particularly significant for individuals suffering from hyperpigmentation and melasma, as visible light can increase melanin production.
In a study, individuals undergoing a hydroquinone treatment were given a standard broad-spectrum SPF50 sunscreen containing zinc oxide or a similar sunscreen also containing iron oxide. They were instructed to apply it daily. While all patients saw their hyperpigmentation decrease, those who used the iron oxide sunscreen experienced significantly greater improvements.
This suggests that the combination of zinc oxide and iron oxide in a sunscreen is particularly beneficial for individuals suffering from melasma and other pigmentation disorders.
Our SPF50 face sunscreen with aloe vera contains non-nanometric zinc oxide.
Azelaic Acid and Zinc to combat oily skin.
For comprehensive anti-blemish action and a mattifying effect, combining azelaic acid and zinc can prove to be remarkably effective.
As a reminder, azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid derived from cereals (wheat, rye, and barley). It has excellent anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory properties, enabling it to combat acne and rosacea issues. Depending on its concentration in a product, azelaic acid can be a medicinal active used in the treatment of rosacea and vulgar acne, or a ingredientcosmetic used to regulate sebum, brighten the complexion, and fight against imperfections. In dermatology, azelaic acid is typically used at a concentration between 15 and 20% and falls into the category of medications. In cosmetics, its concentration is lower (generally less than or equal to 10%); it is rather acclaimed for mattifying and unifying the complexion, effectively combating imperfections, and reducing pigmentation spots.
Specifically designed for oily skin, we have combined zinc PCA with 10% azelaic acid in ourmatifying serum. The azelaic acid present is of plant origin. This treatment also contains organic bamboo extract to reduce excess sebum. This serum can be applied morning and evening, on clean and dry skin.
Sources
LIM H. & al. Effects of visible light on the skin. Photochemistry and Photobiology (2008).
CAMPOS P. & al. Benefits of a dermocosmetic formulation with vitamins B3 and a B6 derivative combined with zinc-PCA for mild inflammatory acne and acne-prone skin. Journal Biomedical and Biopharmaceutical Research (2018)
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