Niacinamide is a derivative of vitamin B3 with numerous benefits for the skin. Indeed, it helps to soothe irritations and redness, reduce the appearance of wrinkles and pigmentation spots, regulate sebum secretion, prevent the onset of blemishes, and improve skin elasticity. In this article, discover how it acts on hyperpigmentation.
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Niacinamide, the active ingredient for diminishing brown spots.
Summary
Published January 10, 2022,
updated on October 24, 2024,
by
Maylis, Chemical Engineer
—
5 min read
What is niacinamide?
Pellagra Preventive), niacinamide is part of the water-soluble B group vitamins with antioxidant, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties.
It is crucial to supply the body with it through diet as it only synthesises it in minute quantities. Niacinamide is naturally present in cereals, legumes, tea, coffee and meat (liver, offal). Its role is vital to the body: niacinamide is involved in the production of NAD and NADP, essential coenzymes recognised as energy transfer molecules.
In a cosmetic treatment, this vitamin is multi-functional. It caters to mature skin due to its antioxidant properties and its ability to stimulate collagen synthesis. It is also found in treatments for combination to oily skin, as it helps to regulate sebum, reducing the occurrence of imperfections. Finally, it is a valuable ally for dry and dehydrated skin: it promotes lipid production and restores the hydrolipidic film.
What are brown spots?
Hyperpigmentation is the dermatological term used to describe persistent spots that appear on the skin's surface. This phenomenon occurs as a result of a disruption in the pigmentation process: the melanin, the pigment responsible for the skin's natural colour, is overproduced in certain areas. The spots that then appear vary in size and affect the uniformity of the complexion. Spots related to hyperpigmentation can be categorised into three groups:
th melasma caused by hormonal imbalances ;
the lentigo associated with excessive sun exposure;
thepost-inflammatory hyperpigmentation which results from an overproduction of melanin following inflammation (injuries, burns, blemishes, acne outbreaks).
Please note: The use of certain perfumes and the intake of certain medicationssuch as oral contraceptives, antimalarial drugs, and imipraminescan also be causes of hyperpigmentation.
Niacinamide as a depigmenting agent.
Studies have shown that the topical application of niacinamide can brighten the complexion and reduce the appearance of brown spots. Researchers have found that 4% niacinamide works as well as 4% hydroquinone in reducing melasma. It's worth noting that hydroquinone is a recognised whitening ingredient but has been banned in Europe in cosmetic products since 2001 due to its carcinogenic potential.
Two biological actions underpin this lightening ability of niacinamide:
It inhibits the transfer of the melanosome from melanocytes to keratinocytes. As a reminder, skin pigmentation is a complex process that begins within cells called melanocytes, which themselves contain organelles (the melanosomes) in which melanin is synthesised. There is then a transfer of these melanosomes to the surrounding keratinocytes, which will subsequently transport the pigment and possibly degrade it.
It stimulates collagen synthesis. Even though the biological mechanism has not yet been elucidated, studies have revealed the ability of niacinamide to boost collagen production, reducing the appearance of pigmentation spots due to photoaging (skin ageing caused by the sun's UVA rays).
The unifying serum with niacinamide (12%) from Typology is a highly concentrated treatment that reduces the appearance of dark spots.Apply 3 to 4 drops to the face, previously cleansed and dried, morning and evening. We recommend using the niacinamide serum for 4 weeks to see its effects.
The unifying toner is less concentrated than the niacinamide serum (7%) but still delivers its benefits to the skin. Moreover, it diminishes blemishes and associated redness, and refines the skin texture.
Sources
SCHNICKER M.S. & al. Niacinamide promotes collagen production in human dermal fibroblasts and differentiation marker in normal human epidermal keratinocytes: The potential of niacinamide to restore aged skin cells to a balanced homeostasis. 59th Annual Meeting American Academy of Dermatology (2001).
BOISSY R. E. & al. The impact of niacinamide on diminishing skin pigmentation and inhibiting the transfer of melanosomes. British Journal of Dermatology (2002).
MONCADA B. & al. A double-blind, randomised clinical trial of niacinamide 4% versus hydroquinone 4% in the treatment of melasma. Dermatology Research and Practice (2011).
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